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General Ooops...

lightweightmick

lightweightmick

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Well it's that time of year again :eek:

apparently it's a massive fail this year for the CLX - the tester said he'd never run into three pages of fails before... won't know the full details till tomorrow as I've only had the news over the phone so far.
Welding, front suspension bushes, emissions, ball joint etc etc...

And I thought I might get away with a service lol

Might need to have a look at the 1000...

Suggestions on a postcard please...
 
Oh and another thing. If the garage gave you a quote for repairs without asking take the car elsewhere for a re-test. Chances are half the things quoted won't be an issue and the car could even pass.

You just need to find an honest M.O.T tester instead of a money grabbing toss pot. If that's the case report the first place to VOSA to stop anyone else being ripped off.

Three pages of faults simply can't happen in a year (unless you drive and have a complete lack of automotive care like my sister).
 
Was this at one of those "half price" MOT places? You need a classic friendly place or one run by your local council who don't have repair services to sell to you.
 
Thanks for the replies guys!

Got the list for the CLX... (the 1000s is going to a different place tomorrow) :rolleyes:
the one needing the least work will get the attention lol

CLX Fails:

1&2 headlamp beam image and aim (that beam image always crops up...)

3&4 are the track rod ball joint dust covers only (this is a new test item apparently) 'excessively deteriorated'

5&6 N/S welding: 'suspension spring mounting prescribed area... excessivley corroded' and same side inner sill

7 similar welding to O/S rear inner sill area

8 spongy brake pedal (never had this one before...)

9,10&11 front brakes uneven and little or no effort

12 O/S F seat belt retracting mechanism defective

13 to 16 welding related round seat belt anchorage points

17 wiper blade

18&19 welding related - O/S and N/S/F (both at inner wing) suspension areas excessively corroded (?)

20 emissions after 2nd fast idle (the CLX does have CAT and the engine management light has been coming on but would just go off again for no apparent reason)

21handbrake needs adj - listed as **dangerous** (I've has a lot worse than this pass!)

Just minor things then lol (y)

Advisories:
22&23 Rear shocks have 'light misting of oil'

24 oil leak

***********

1&2 make me laugh cos they are no different to last year!

Mainly bits of welding then. The seat belt does retract but is very slow

Main problem with the 1000s is the doors - still taped up, but no sharp edges. Brakes will need attention with standing... se how that one fares
tomorrow

As a committed Panda fan I think best way fwd is to get one back on the road and have the other 'bottomed' by a specialist welder as up to now it's only had MOT welding and quite a bit last year
:slayer:
 
Brake pedal spongy?:rolleyes: Theyr'e getting a bit esoteric with their criticism arn't they. I thought they tested the brakes on their ability to stop the car not the feel of the controls. Maybe Corsas should start failing MOTs for having pish steering feel.
 
Last edited:
Yeah 'esoteric' is a good way of describing it lol.
The brake pedal is spongy on the Ducato but the tester told me in the past that 'they are all different - it depends on the readings.
Maybe its because the front brake readings were so low..?

Liquid Knight
Yeah, agreed... I'd missed the test date and had hoped it might not take much fixing to retax Monday. I let my local people take it to a test station for me as they don't test themselves but are prepared to do the work. Over the years (too many at my age lol) I've found that many don't want to tackle welding... This was the only place they could get it booked in at short notice...
When I got my first Panda (the 1000s) as a scrapper in 2005 (i think) I couldn't get anyone to weld it (that inner sill weld is a bit tricky) and had to buy a MIG and do it myself, but it's no joke lying under the car with welding flash dropping onto you! But I did get it through by myself then, but I had another car to run about in - now I'm reliant on one of the 3 Pandas or the motor van which are all on SORN at present. The reason I got 3 is to have one as a spare lol...

I went to check the lights today as I'd remember a bulb had gone and as it was running I noticed the temp gauge climbing - sure enough it boiled up, so I took out the thermostat while I was at it - or it might not have even made it to the test station lol
The 1000s is the one I had all the overheating problems with a few years back and it still needs yet another water pump and now a new thermostsat (probably sticking?)
I reckon the Panda thermostats are a bit of a weak point...
 
Was this at one of those "half price" MOT places? You need a classic friendly place or one run by your local council who don't have repair services to sell to you.

lightweightmick said:
cost £40 - I usually steer well of the 'bargain' testers, though it's usually been £30 in the past... If tomorrow's goes bad then I might have to empty all the cider out of the Camper van lol
Click to expand...
 
My Italian friends had a sale on last week...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/400526787920?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

...when patching up sills it's better to cut out as much bad metal as possible and replace with new. Otherwise you'll have to do it again and again higher and higher up. Sounds to me like the rust from the inner sills has made it to the floor around the seat belt anchors. Usually the curved section from the floor up to the step plate goes first. Again simply chop, cut and rebuild. I made a curved section for Guff II using an off cut of roll cage as a template to bend new sheet metal round.

Spongy and ineffective brakes could be your pressure regulating valve (under your spare wheel), sticky caliper or slave cylinder.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BRAKE-VAL...arts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3cc4c5176a

Also your brake fluid could be old, dirty and less effective or simply worn pads and shoes.

The handbrake should be straight forward stuck linkage or worn out shoes.

Ball joints, bushes and tca's in one hit. Weld up the suspension rot while your front assembly is out.

A good couple of weeks work there. :)
 
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