General oil pressure light

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General oil pressure light

crozell

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Jan 24, 2009
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Sorry guys for all the questions. I have finally gotten all the registration and title issued taken care of and took the car on its first maiden voyage (legally!). After about 5 km the oil light came on, first just at idle and then it stayed on the whole time. Oil level is fine, what reasons would it come on for?

I tried searching but didnt have any luck.

Thanks guys,

Clay
 
Last edited:
Hi I had the same issue once it was just too much oil in the engine and the other was the oil sender unit was faulty. :D
 
I still seem to have this problem of the oil light working, I was told the sender units available here are not so good so will get one from UK or Italy. When I remove the wire on the sender unit the light goes off which means that the electrical side is fine.

I was also told in order to check if the Oil pump is working fine its possible to remove the sender unit and start the engine and check if oil shoots out with good pressure which means the oil pump is working fine, any idea if this is true?
 
Hello Shanil

Worth a try I would say.

If you get positive oil pressure at the sender take off point, then chances are it is the sender that is faulty.

As you say the light goes off when you remove the wire, this would confirm that the electrical side is OK. The sender simply breaks the earth (ground) connection to the warning light.

This will then prove pretty conclusively it is the sender that is faulty.
 
Hi Seems that my oil pump is actually faulty and no pressure at all, I guess the oil sender unit was doing its job right by indicating it, now need to replace the pump so stripped the engine, is it necessary to only replace the 2 fly wheels on the pump as I think these 2 wheels only seem to do the work?

Found that mjy right side rear axel boot and coupling were also gone not to mention the brake cylinder washers and thrust bearing, so replacing all of it :mad:
 
From the Haynes Manual:

1. The Oil Pump should only be suspect for wear at very high mileages, or after some abuse which would be indicated by such things as the crankcase needing regrind to the second undersize. :eek:

3. If wear is bad the two gear wheels need replacing. In extreme cases the pump cover palte and timing chain cover will need replacing. :eek:

7. The clearance between the boss and the pump cover plate for the gear shaft and the inside of the pressure relief valve that seats on it should not exceed .15mm. If necessary the cover plate and valve must be replaced. :eek:

Found that mjy right side rear axel boot and coupling were also gone not to mention the brake cylinder washers and thrust bearing, so replacing all of it :mad:

Quite common with these cars to start one job and discover three others that need doing. ;)
 
I have our F499cc apart and the oil pump looks pretty bad. Funny thing is the timing chain cover and pump casting are stamped 110D while the rest of the engine is 110F. Is this normal, or did someone put a D oil pump on the car? Are the gears, or entire oil pump for that matter, interchangeable with the F?

dave
 
Hi as per Chet's husband Toto, the timing chain cover of all engines are the same, so most probably someone changed the cover to a 110D at some point since the cover must have been worn out and causing the oil pump to lose pressure.

Toto also recommends that I replace my oil pump with a 650cc one which will then give more than enough oil pressure but the catch is I need to replace the timing chain cover also with a 650cc one but told that these covers are the same and can be fitted without any modification :cool:
 
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