Technical Nut on cv shaft ??? 04 ducatto Never come across these in my mechanical experience do I slip a nail punch in to Ra se the steel divots ?

[Jockoze]

Never come across this nut system b4 with the steel divots holding it in ,how do I remove this ,do I slip a nail punch under the steel indentation that's good ng the nut secure or ??????

 

[bugsymike]

Never come across this nut system b4 with the steel divots holding it in ,how do I remove this ,do I slip a nail punch under the steel indentation that's good ng the nut secure or ??????

Most just undo the nut and replace with a new one, especially if both "divots" damaged /knocked in , usually with a blunt chisel or similar.
The crimped in part is after the threaded section of the CV joint so shouldn't damage the threads.
If new nuts not readily available, hopefully only one "divot" damaged , so use the opposite one to lock the nut on shaft into one of the two grooves.
Another trick is to swap nuts left to right on vehicle and they often line up on a fresh part of the nut once correctly torqued up.
Not a good idea to overtighten or undertighten.
Another trick is to file a little off the contact area of nut, so that it stops in an undamaged position.
Best is new nuts. If changing a CV joint they often come with the hub nut.

 

[Googlebot]

I used an old screwdriver ground to shape. Drive it in the gap to shift the tabs out.

Note you will probably need a massive bar. They look fairly corroded on.

I have broken 2 half inch bars getting mine off. You will likely need a 3/4 drive bar.

 

[bugsymike]

I used an old screwdriver ground to shape. Drive it in the gap to shift the tabs out.

Note you will probably need a massive bar. They look fairly corroded on.

I have broken 2 half inch bars getting mine off. You will likely need a 3/4 drive bar.

View attachment 467244

I always use my 3/4 socket set and bars on hub nuts etc. Saves wear on 1/2 inch stuff.

 

[Communicator]

This brings back memories from many years ago.

The suggested tightening torque is outside of the range of 1/2" torque wrenches. quoted at 352 to 388Nm for M28 shafts. I used a tubular extension on a 3/4" T bar wrench, and stood on the extension, balancing on one foot, at a radius calculated using my weight. If adopting this method you will need to hang onto something to help your balance.

I am not sure why the above torque values are so precise, given the allowed range. Perhaps with some engineering judgement 350 to 390Nm would make more sense.

I also used a small screwdriver as a drift, to force out the clenched sections of the nut.

 

[bugsymike]

This brings back memories from many years ago.

The suggested tightening torque is outside of the range of 1/2" torque wrenches. quoted at 352 to 388Nm for M28 shafts. I used a tubular extension on a 3/4" T bar wrench, and stood on the extension, balancing on one foot, at a radius calculated using my weight. If adopting this method you will need to hang onto something to help your balance.

I am not sure why the above torque values are so precise, given the allowed range. Perhaps with some engineering judgement 350 to 390Nm would make more sense.

I also used a small screwdriver as a drift, to force out the clenched sections of the nut.

I did have a customer whose father recently had his Renault Laguna Torque convertor replaced by the main dealers shortly after purchase from them (they blamed it's failure on short journeys to avoid the warranty???) within the £2k bill was a new drive shaft as they claimed it had snapped as they undid the drive shaft nut!!!
Something I have never managed to do in over half a century, including when 16 stone and standing on a long extended 3/4 bar and socket.