General my UNO kept having problems

[LDIV]

I got my UNO just last december of last year 2008, I just had my HYDROVAC and Breakmaster replaced last month because it was busted then had my left side disc caliper replaced because its getting stuck and I couldn't move my UNO even a bit!!! then had the flexible hose going to the caliper replaced too and it worked, for a day then back to the same old thing, actually when I was parking on reverse I was pushing on the accelerator pedal its loosing power and turning OFF the engine without power, since its stuck still I revved up the engine and I think I burned my clutch, my mag wheels was so hot and now I don't know what to do.... don't know where and what the problem is, the water on the radiator is boiling out of the cap whenever I use it for a few minute run only when I turn the engine off, I also had my radiator overhauled for clogs but it still happens, help guys, badly need help... :bang: :bang:

 

[Ucof]

Does your radiator fan kick in at all?

 

[Barney vd Merwe]

I learned the expensive way - Front brakes - Same scenario on BOTH the Uno's I owned - Replaced the seals in the brake caliper - NOT NECESSARY - fitted a new kit in the Brake Master cylinder - NOT NECESSARY - nearly replaced front wheel bearings (because the alloy wheels became so hot when driving / discs became literally red hot - I lit a cigarette on there) and thought that was the problem - NOT NECESSARY - Herewith the cure : REMOVE THE FLEXIBLE hoses on each caliper; suck or blow and take note if it is not clogged (If so, replace both - don't even try anything to get it unclogged - its not going to work, trust me) new hoses should solve the problem... and as for the radiator - to be continued.

Good Luck

 

[alexGS]

Since the flexible hose was already replaced, I'd say the brake servo (vacuum-operated booster) pushrod is sticking out too far. There needs to be a small clearance between the pushrod and the master cylinder piston.

I'm not sure which model of servo you have, but generally there is an 'acorn' nut threaded on to the end. Wind that in a couple of turns and try again. Another way to achieve the same result is to put a couple of washers under the master cylinder (on the two mounting studs).

By the way, welcome to the forum :wave: Love the avatar photo - that was part of an artwork a few years back, exhibited in New York if I remember correctly.

-Alex

 

[LDIV]

Ucof,
Yes my aux fan if always on whenever the key is inserted even when the emgine is off,when I drive for like 5 mins and turn my engine off the water escapes from the cap, almost 3/4 of the fill, but it doesnt send an indication that its overheating,thanks.

Barney,
thanks and Yes I have the hoses replaced and it worked like from the shop to my place and when I was backing up to my garage I kept flooring the accelerator but it wouldnt move, its badly stuck again.

AlexGS,
Thanks to you alexGS, I'll be doing that pushrod thing this weekend, I dont have much time when I get home only on weekends, thank you all for the help,
this is one awesome forum, thanks for the welcome guys.

FIAT////UNO45
LDIV

 

[Ucof]

Ucof,
Yes my aux fan if always on whenever the key is inserted even when the emgine is off,when I drive for like 5 mins and turn my engine off the water escapes from the cap, almost 3/4 of the fill, but it doesnt send an indication that its overheating,thanks.

That is worrying.
The fan shouldn't always be on. It should cut in when the engine reaches 90 degrees centigrade (the middle white line on the temp gauge) and then cut out once the engine has cooled down.

If the fan is on and you turn the engine off, the fan should stay on, until the car has cooled down enough.

Have you tried bleeding the cooling system to make sure there are no airlocks, causing the water to not get pumped round and cooling the engine effectively?

Could be that the coolant isn't getting into the radiator in order to get cooled properly.

have you tried completly emptying the cooling sytem and then refilling it?

 

[EssexUno]

for the cooling system, have you taken the thermistat out and tested it to make sure it's opening?

take it out and put it in boiling water, if it opens then it's working but if it doesn't open then, well self explanitary

Dan

 

[LDIV]

Ucof,

How do I bleed the cooling system for air? I also did emptied the radiator by taking out the hoses upper and lower then replaced the water, and I also had it overhauled by separating the ends and clearing each tubes for rust or blockage of any but it still happened whenever I turn the engine and while its running its not coming out of the cap.

ESSEX,

the indicator is working perfectly, in fact it lit one time it overheated because the fan connector was pulled out and the fan didn't work.


FIAT////UNO45
LDIV

 

[Ucof]

Bleeding the system is fairly easy. AlexGS showed me how to do it in a dark car park once with only a candle for light and in torrential rain whilst we were being pelted with bricks and rotten eggs by Afro-Caribbean lesbian midget prostitutes.
True story that.

Get the engine running and take the cap off the radiator. Make sure you have a jug of coolant mixture to hand too.
On the left hand side of the engine bay, near the back, should be a pipe with a small plastic screw on it. The pipe it is on will be attached to the bulkhead.
Fully fill the radiator, then undo the screw on the pipe and lift the pipe as high as you can (I believe) in order to get all the air up to the hole, and out of the pipe.
As soon as you have a constant stream of water and no spurty moments of air, the bleeding is done. Put the screw back in and tighten it up fully.
Then go round and top up the water level in the radiator to the level it should be.

It might be worth using a water/ anti-frezze/ glycerol mixture in the radiator rather than just pure water. However, in the Philippines, I doubt you need anti-freeze that much.
I'd still go with the glycerol though - it stop rust from forming in the radiator.

 

[alexGS]

Bleeding the system is fairly easy. AlexGS showed me how to do it in a dark car park once with only a candle for light and in torrential rain whilst we were being pelted with bricks and rotten eggs by Afro-Caribbean lesbian midget prostitutes.
True story that..

I really don't remember the Afro-Caribbean lesbian midget prostitutes, but I guess they weren't eye candy for me

Your writeup is great except there is also a bleed screw on the radiator, quite near the cap but effectively at the top of the radiator (the expansion tank is joined onto the radiator at the bottom). So you remove that bleed screw first and refit it last.

And yes, definitely need a glycol mix in the cooling system, even in hot climates, to prevent dissimilar metals corrosion between the cast-iron block and alloy head.

-Alex

 

[LDIV]

alexGS,

your cool, its the pushrod alright... thanks, but after the bleeding it didn't come to a stop when they bled the breaks, then on the way home I had to stop on one of the shops and have it checked again, they bled the brakes with the engine turned off on the driver side and suggested me to have it overhauled by the 1st shop so I left the 2nd shop to our place but the brakes were ok, I mean it was breaking, I think the proper way to bleed it, is with the engine OFF? is it?

FIAT////UNO45
LDIV

 

[zoids]

try replacing the radiator cap rubber seal. it might have a leak so the pressure inside the radiator is not enough to keep the coolant from boiling.

 

[Ucof]

Thats a good point.