Hi i only had my multi a few weeks when i got it i was told the battery had just been changed i had a little spare time today so i opened the bonnet and noticed a few things were left hanging loose there was a fuse loose by battery tray i started putting things back in their place i removed air filter and housing then cleaned all breather pipes leading to air filter housing after putting all back together i managed to get about 10 miles and then my car cut out the dash display showed engine fault and switch off engine, the engine had already cut out itself but now i cant get the car to start at all it turns over sounds like its almost going to fire but just wont can anyone please HELP i really need my car to get back and forth to hospitals as my little girl has problems with her kidney and requires regular treatment
Technical My Multi wont Fire it just Turns over
- Thread starter Stuart D
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Technical My Multi wont Fire it just Turns over
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Petrol or diesel?
I'd suspect the Crank Sensor, mine was doing something similar recently, although it (the Sensor) doesn't usually throw up any warnings, so you may have another unrelated fault (as I do!).
Mine would just spin over without starting, always when warm (after >5mins driving), then would start fine after approx 10 mins.
It's a relatively easy job to change it, just one 6mm bolt, and a plug (which is more work to get to than removing/replacing the Sensor itself
).
Around £25 for the Sensor.
It's located just beneath the Starter Motor.
If it is almost starting (the odd cough/splutter/hiccup while turning over), then I'd look at the Fuel Filter for one thing.
Could be some water in the system.
A low Battery (slightly low Voltage) will throw up all kinds of warnings, but shouldn't cause any actual 'hard' faults by itself.
The previous owner mentioning the Battery having been freshly charged would have made me suspicious to be honest, so it may be 'on it's last legs' and need replacing.
Crank Sensor replacement . . .
Mine would just spin over without starting, always when warm (after >5mins driving), then would start fine after approx 10 mins.
It's a relatively easy job to change it, just one 6mm bolt, and a plug (which is more work to get to than removing/replacing the Sensor itself
).Around £25 for the Sensor.
It's located just beneath the Starter Motor.
If it is almost starting (the odd cough/splutter/hiccup while turning over), then I'd look at the Fuel Filter for one thing.
Could be some water in the system.
A low Battery (slightly low Voltage) will throw up all kinds of warnings, but shouldn't cause any actual 'hard' faults by itself.
The previous owner mentioning the Battery having been freshly charged would have made me suspicious to be honest, so it may be 'on it's last legs' and need replacing.
Crank Sensor replacement . . .
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Thank you for your view your fuel filter idea made me think i had not checked if infact there was any fuel reaching the injectors so i went back to where i had to leave my multi last night and discovered that no fuel was getting through i checked it all back to the pump sender in fuel tank and no fuel was being pumped from tank after checking if i had power going to sender i was starting to get really baffled as to what was causing my problem then i had a brain storming idea the fuel cut off i checked and was fine so looked for second cut off switch after around 20 mins i discovered there was another cut off in the driver side footwell and the switch had in fact somehow popped up i was unable to reset the switch as every time i pressed it down it just would not stay pressed so i bypassed the switch and first turn of key it fired i felt like banging my head against a wall i spent hours looking for a fault and changing Fuel filter, crank sensor, Cleaning EGR Valve, MAF Sensor, and all could have been avoided if i had applied a bit of common sense and checked the obvious first i just hope that if someone else had the same problem this post is of some help to them. At least now i have new crank sensor and clean EGR and Piping so hopefully no problems for a while now
Glad you got it sorted.
If we were talking about 'proper' vehicles, like nice old VWs/Minis, or just anything pre-EFI/ECU fitted things, I'd always suggest the classic 'Fuel, Points, Plugs' checks first.
With 'modern' vehicles, it's more-often-than-not some poxy little Sensor or Electronic gizmo, and we tend to overlook the 'basics'.
If we were talking about 'proper' vehicles, like nice old VWs/Minis, or just anything pre-EFI/ECU fitted things, I'd always suggest the classic 'Fuel, Points, Plugs' checks first.
With 'modern' vehicles, it's more-often-than-not some poxy little Sensor or Electronic gizmo, and we tend to overlook the 'basics'.
Longer term Multi owners know never to temp fate by saying things like that!
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Glad you got it sorted.
If we were talking about 'proper' vehicles, like nice old VWs/Minis, or just anything pre-EFI/ECU fitted things, I'd always suggest the classic 'Fuel, Points, Plugs' checks first.
With 'modern' vehicles, it's more-often-than-not some poxy little Sensor or Electronic gizmo, and we tend to overlook the 'basics'.
Longer term Multi owners know never to temp fate by saying things like that!
I agree the older vehicles were a lot quicker and easier to diagnose fault and repair was cheaper and getting linked to a machine was only heard of at MOT time and even then the tester made decision on passing or failing the emissions test ha ha cheers BikeDoc
