Technical Might have damaged the head and block!

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Technical Might have damaged the head and block!

Ucof

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Due to a recent antifreeze deficiency incident ( :eek: :mad: :bang: (n) ), I *might* have to replace my 1.0 block and head.


Chas - I'm *really* pissed that we chucked the engine from the spare/repairs one now :(


Thanks.
 
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Ugh, what happened? I have a mate who spent whole winter onto pure water, and nothing happened (down to -10, sometimes -15 degrees around here).
So I wonder how cold it was there?
 
We hit minus 8 where I am.

What annoys me most is that changing the coolant was on my "to do" list, but my GF was moving house that same weekend, and I just ran out of time.

:(


Garage have said that there is no compression at all, and that they think it is likely to be the valves that have gone.
As such, I'm not looking for head/ block at the emoment, but would be interested if anyone has one, for the future.

Although the garage said that they think it is the valves, do I remember reading that the FIRE engines are immune to valves breaking, or damage if the timing belt snaps, because something or rather pops back out of the way?
 
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Seems odd!!

If the coolant has frozen it should just push a core plug or two out - that's why they are there.

But maybe the water pump has frozen solid - which is driven from the cam belt, so the belt may have snapped - or the timing may have been knocked out of sync - which could explain no compression.

Yes the (8 valve) fire engine is non-interference so the pistons and valves don't meet if the cam belt goes.

Can't see you need a block or head, but I do have a spare head in the shed IIR (y) Can't believe Chas would bin a head :confused:
 
Seems odd!!

If the coolant has frozen it should just push a core plug or two out - that's why they are there.

that's a common myth, they are there to do with the casting [ame="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Core_plug"]Core plug - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia@@AMEPARAM@@/wiki/File:Corroded-Core-Plug.JPG" class="image"><img alt="" src="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/thumb/e/e3/Corroded-Core-Plug.JPG/250px-Corroded-Core-Plug.JPG"@@AMEPARAM@@en/thumb/e/e3/Corroded-Core-Plug.JPG/250px-Corroded-Core-Plug.JPG[/ame]
 
The water pump had indeed frozen solid, and I had stripped the timing belt when trying to start the car.

I texted Chas and Jai; still waiting for Chas' reply. Jai has a spare Turbo block, but not a normal one.


Would the freezing not have cracked the gaps in the block?

I'm giving them a ring tomorrow late morning to see exactly what the problem is. Will be able to find out exactly what I need, then. :)

It's taken almost 2 weeks for the car to defrost properly!!!!


Dave - the GF overlooked this thread and when she saw the video preview frame, exclaimed: "EURGH! Is that an African goatse?"!! :D
 
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that's a common myth, they are there to do with the casting Core plug - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

May be wrong but not so sure about that one ^^ :confused: if the D plugs only function was to seal the casting, you'd a thought big industrial engines would use something threaded ;)

Ucof I'd fit a new timing belt (and tensioner if it weren’t renewed when the head was gasket was done) and see if it holds water when it’s running keep checking for leaks / high temp…
 
Louie - I'm with you on the core plug non-push out, and that was exactly what the garage said too.


We were correct about the valves not bending, the garage were very suprised that there wasn't any damage! Go FIRE engines! :D

Garage say that the block is fine, not cracked, but that there was a blown gasket between 3rd and 4th cylinder.
They are going to open the head up and look at the camshaft, and will let me know.

They have asked me to get a head set from ebay, which I'll be getting anyway.

Can anyone think of where the lack of compression could be coming from? Would spark plugs be affected by freezing at all?
 
Cambelt links crankshaft and camshaft, so they turn and act at the correct time to open the valves in relation to the piston position to allow compression.

Now you have no cam belt, so the camshft no longer moves at all. The valves could be positioned with inlet or outlet open over each cylinder which would result in no compression when the crank is turned (by startermotor) ;)
 
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Im wondering if they forgot to do something basic, like the timing, or making sure the two arrows were pointing at each other!


:D
 
Just an update:
I ordered a headset from ebay, they fitted it, car starts perfectly again!

Water pump, however, had a knackered bearing but I luckily had the one from the spares/ repairs car! Should be ready for pickup on Monday.
 
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