Maf Trouble

[Venters]

Right popped the MAF sensor off to give it a clean. It's not been done in about 10,000 miles. So did the deed using Loctite 7063. Put the sensor back in the housing and started it back up for the sensor relearn process.

Straight away the EML was light up. not a problem it usually stays on for a minute or 2 after a maf clean then goes out never to return. After 10 minutes of idleing the light was still on. The car is also not driving properly. Throttle responce and pick up from below 2k is bad below 1.5K is awful. There are also now occasional hot starting problems.

Now I have obviously broken my MAF. So the options are.

1, New from Fiat. Near 200 notes so as I've just lost my job thats a no.
2, New from the interweb. Price drops to around 40-50 but reports of bad quality. But do you really get bad quality electronics any more?
3, used. Are used MAFS a good idea? Also how is cross compatability between mafs and other cars? Will I only be able to use a maf from another VIS valver or because it's a Bosch part may it be possible it's fitted to other Fiats or even other manfacturers aswell?


It's becoming a pain to drive as I keep the revs higher so the MAF has less affect. Problem there is, well anyone who has seen and heard my car will know what the problem is. :evil:

 

[Stuart]

try unplugging the maf while car is running, see if there is any difference. clean the connector with wd40? This is the first things id try, then ebay for a genuine second hand part, ive heard bad things about cheapie parts too. hth

 

[Venters]

The connectors were the first thing I checked as I'm handy with solder.

running wise there is not much difference between connected and disconnected except for the hot starting. It starts no problem with the MAF disconnected.

Think I'm going to need to get a bosch part number and check cross compatability. Hopefully open up a few more options as to cars I can scavenge for bits.

 

[imported_Ransoman]

Specifically what did you use to clean it with? You should only use alcohol based electrical contact cleaner, and be gentle.

Best place to get a spare from would be shop4parts. make sure you get a genuine bosch one, anything else won't work as well.

 

[Venters]

It was loctite 7063
Which is this stuff.
http://logichem.netpower.no/datasheet.a ... DepId=2829

Thing is I used it before and it was fine.

 

[Venters]

Stuarty your a VX man is there anyway you can check these part numbers and tell me what engines they are attached to?

OPEL 24414665
OPEL 836592
OPEL 90530767
OPEL 90543463
OPEL 9195729
OPEL 93171355
OPEL 93171356

 

[Stuart]

Stuarty your a VX man is there anyway you can check these part numbers and tell me what engines they are attached to?

OPEL 24414665
OPEL 836592
OPEL 90530767
OPEL 90543463
OPEL 9195729
OPEL 93171355
OPEL 93171356

I have been investigating for you, but so far dunno, but i still have a card up my sleeve.

**edit** heres some for ya, waiting for some more bud

90543463 - WAS FOR CORSA C Y17DT/L REPLACED BY 93171356
ALSO OMEGA B X20DTH ALSO VECTRA B X20DTL/H

93171356 Astra G - Zafira A - Y17DT/X17DTL/X20DTL
+ Y20DTH UP TO CHASSIS
-Y2999999
-Y5999999
-Y6999999
-Y8999999
-YH999999

9195729 - OMEGA B Y22DTH REPLACED BY 93171355
ALSO VECTRA B Y20DTH/Y22DTR

93171355 Astra G - Zafira A - Y20DTH CHASSIS RANGE
12000001-22999999
15000001-25999999
16000001-26999999
18000001-28999999
1H000001-2H999999

There's some for you

 

[Venters]

Cheers buddy.

So apparently I share mafs with the 1.7, 2.0 and 2.2 DTIs
Should be alot easier to find than the Fiat or Alfa Lancia equiv. :lol:

Don't suppose there is a code in they chassis numbers to give dates of use?

Or would it have been the same part for the life of that model i.e all 1.7 Corsa Cs and all Astra G DTIs and so on?

 

[FiatFXR]

Get a multimeter and test the sensor it might be another sensor causing the fault like your temp sensor or ECM. With the MAF sensor still plugged in put one meter needle into the middle pin and keep it there, turn on the ignition and then get the 2nd meter needle and touch either pin on each side. If you get 11-14volts from one of the pins, that will be your supply voltage and is called Pin 3. Now go and test Pin 1, with the ignition still on Pin 1 should read 0-0.5volts and when engine is started and it should read 1.3-1.7volts. If you get these readings then you can rule this out.

Unplugging sensors while the engine is running will encourage the EML to come on and give you a number fault codes on your ECU, this is because the ECU's today are adaptable to climate changes and the ECU has parameters and when a sensor becomes faulty it send readings that are out of the ECU's parameters, as a result of this the ECU declares there is a problem and if it continues the ECU will switch to limp mode which is a fixed setting inside the parameters (non adaptable now). Limp mode won't kick in instantly when a sensor is unplugged as it gives the sensor a chance to see if it was a momentary error like crap passing through the sensor or contaminants build up. Once limp mode is activated your need to reset the ECU so it can clear limp mode and all the codes that build up.

all sensor problems should be checked by multimeter rather than unplugging them...

 

[Stuart]

Get a multimeter and test the sensor it might be another sensor causing the fault like your temp sensor or ECM. With the MAF sensor still plugged in put one meter needle into the middle pin and keep it there, turn on the ignition and then get the 2nd meter needle and touch either pin on each side. If you get 11-14volts from one of the pins, that will be your supply voltage and is called Pin 3. Now go and test Pin 1, with the ignition still on Pin 1 should read 0-0.5volts and when engine is started and it should read 1.3-1.7volts. If you get these readings then you can rule this out.

Unplugging sensors while the engine is running will encourage the EML to come on and give you a number fault codes on your ECU, this is because the ECU's today are adaptable to climate changes and the ECU has parameters and when a sensor becomes faulty it send readings that are out of the ECU's parameters, as a result of this the ECU declares there is a problem and if it continues the ECU will switch to limp mode which is a fixed setting inside the parameters (non adaptable now). Limp mode won't kick in instantly when a sensor is unplugged as it gives the sensor a chance to see if it was a momentary error like crap passing through the sensor or contaminants build up. Once limp mode is activated your need to reset the ECU so it can clear limp mode and all the codes that build up.

all sensor problems should be checked by multimeter rather than unplugging them...

can the ecu's be resetted by disconnecting the battery for an hour or so, like on other cars?

 

[Venters]

Yes it can. The ECU will then go into a relearn process lasting 300 miles or so. However this will not clear fault codes that are still active.

On the plus side I've been assured the Loctite cleaner is suitable for cleaning the maf and it has been the either the removal and refittig of the maf or the method I used to clean that has caused the issue.