General L73 DVR Project

Currently reading:
General L73 DVR Project

Joined
Mar 16, 2007
Messages
105
Points
35
Location
chesterfield
After running out of mot i dumped my uno in a garage where its been stood over a year.
now the nice(ish) weathers appeared i thought it would be a great idea to get the uno back home and see what it would need for the mot.
got to the garage...5 litre of fresh unleaded...jump leads on...1st time starter, which i was very suprised at.

anyway, drove the car home and checked around it.
most of the cars(y) ......except the errr, whats that unos dont have often? o yeah remember now....the floor.

luckily my local scrappy isnt open sundays or i probably would have made a really regretable choice.

now iv decided the car deserves to see the road again so will be throwing loads of hours and hard work at it...

Keeep an eye on this thread for loads of pics and details of my restoration project.
 

Attachments

  • DSC00344.JPG
    DSC00344.JPG
    470.9 KB · Views: 48
a quick look around the boot with the help of a mallet revealed three bad corroded areas, shocker top mounting area, and both corners of the boot floor.
DSC00386.JPG

DSC00389.JPG

DSC00387.JPG

after being a member on here a while, i really wasnt suprised by this.
 
after being a member on here a while, i really wasnt suprised by this.

<sigh> :(
Yet another case of a clean car rusting from the inside out.

If it makes you feel any better, I dropped $5000 (£1900) on a FIAT 124 Spider a month or two back, only to discover now that it has major structural rust in both front suspension assemblies. Off the road for probably a year or two until I get chance to restore it. Can't say I was all that surprised either...

Once, I used to think that the Mk2 Uno never had any rust problems, thanks to the use of "Galvanised Sheet Steel" mentioned in the handbook.

You know, a re-shell - well painted and treated - is always a good way to solve these problems :)

Otherwise, you have some welding ahead. Looking forward to the updates...

-Alex
 
No wonder they are getting rarer. I must give mine a real good look over. That rust is bad. How come they never made them to last?

It's actually all relative. We've seen Unos with far more rust than that... there have been cases where the whole width of the tyre tread shows through rust holes in the rear turrets...

Sorry to hijack the thread temporarily... :eek: but...

How come they never made them to last? Just how long do you expect them to last? ;) The Uno is actually an improvement over the cars of the 70s - once upon a time, five-year-old cars (like the FIAT 128) had dire rust traps in the front suspension (front antirollbar mountings would detach from the body of the five-year-old car, with dramatic results).

Now, most Unos are about 20 years old, so they're doing well compared to those 70s cars. But it's frustrating when the steel basically rusts from the inside out... If you read the handbook, the information given was on how to prevent rusting by touching-up stonechips and other places where moisture, salt etc. can reach the metal from the outside. Yet sometimes the worst rust seems to just start from within seams that are dry.

I believe some of it is down to how the steel is made (I was told by a production manager, not from FIAT). The furnaces of the steelworks (e.g. at FIAT) had oxygen added to help the fires burn brighter and more efficiently for a given amount of fuel. This extra oxygen ends up in the steel - pre-oxidised steel = pre-rusted steel. Whether that is true or not, I don't know for sure. I just know that some steel seems naturally more rust-prone than other steel. Uno body steel seems very rust-prone. Therefore if the paint/protection is breached, it rusts.

And in some cases, I wonder if the rusting has already started by the time the paint/protection goes on at the factory. Nothing less would explain the extreme rusting I've seen ravaging certain panels under the paint, e.g. Mk2 Uno doors, where one skin has a huge rusted hole, yet the frame it attaches to is pristine. If the rust was starting due to trapped water (as you might expect in the bottom of a door) then both skins would have rusted to some extent.

So, 'making them to last' is a relative term. They tried fairly well within the bounds of what they were working with - steel that was pre-disposed to rust. Paint/anticorrosion products were generously applied to the Uno - from the factory there is a good dose of wax in all the body sections, a good thick coating of underseal (overpainted), and good paint (especially on non-red models :))

Look at some Japanese cars, particularly those you receive as imports direct from Japan - no underseal at all and no wax in the doors!

Realistically the only thing FIAT could have done better was to use actual galvanised steel, which they did on the Tipo and apparently models since then (but who really knows what a Mk2 Punto will look like in 15 years... ;) I personally suspect that the effort may lapse again; it may go in cycles...)

Imagine an Uno where the bodyshell was stamped from stainless steel sheet (and high-grade 18-8 stainless steel, of course). Special TIG welding, but no paint or sealing materials. The cost would be about 6x standard... people should be keen enough to pay Aston Martin prices for an Uno, no? ;) And as the first owner of the car, would you want to pay extra for a car that sees the seventh owner through the MOT in 20 years' time? After all, the chance of buying a new car and wanting to keep that car for 20 years is very, very slim. I'm way too much of an automotive playboy to be interested in that. I get bored after a year or two, hell, after a month I'm keen to move on...

In Italy, cars are a fashion item and only expected to last a few years, by which time they will be bent and battered beyond recognition. Maybe that is the true answer to the question. After all, it would be a waste to throw away a battered stainless-steel Uno...

-Alex
 
Last edited:
You know, a re-shell - well painted and treated - is always a good way to solve these problems :)

Otherwise, you have some welding ahead. Looking forward to the updates...

-Alex

a re-shell hadnt popped into mind, was just planning on alot of welding and tin bashing. although a re-shell would be a good way to solve this mess, i just cant bring myself round to rip a decent one to pieces.

going to attempt welding a few areas later so will post up pics of my progress in a few hours.
 
It's actually all relative. We've seen Unos with far more rust than that... there have been cases where the whole width of the tyre tread shows through rust holes in the rear turrets...

Now, most Unos are about 20 years old, so they're doing well compared to those 70s cars. But it's frustrating when the steel basically rusts from the inside out... Yet sometimes the worst rust seems to just start from within seams that are dry.

I believe some of it is down to how the steel is made (I was told by a production manager, not from FIAT). The furnaces of the steelworks (e.g. at FIAT) had oxygen added to help the fires burn brighter and more efficiently for a given amount of fuel. This extra oxygen ends up in the steel - pre-oxidised steel = pre-rusted steel. Whether that is true or not, I don't know for sure. I just know that some steel seems naturally more rust-prone than other steel. Uno body steel seems very rust-prone. Therefore if the paint/protection is breached, it rusts.

And in some cases, I wonder if the rusting has already started by the time the paint/protection goes on at the factory. Nothing less would explain the extreme rusting I've seen ravaging certain panels under the paint, e.g. Mk2 Uno doors, where one skin has a huge rusted hole, yet the frame it attaches to is pristine. If the rust was starting due to trapped water (as you might expect in the bottom of a door) then both skins would have rusted to some extent.

Look at some Japanese cars, particularly those you receive as imports direct from Japan - no underseal at all and no wax in the doors!

Realistically the only thing FIAT could have done better was to use actual galvanised steel, which they did on the Tipo and apparently models since then (but who really knows what a Mk2 Punto will look like in 15 years... ;) I personally suspect that the effort may lapse again; it may go in cycles...)

-Alex

The Tipo & Tempras werent completely galvanised either, if you look at the literature at the time, it says "100% galvanising of the external steel", in other words, it`ll look pretty longer, but still die of rust in 10-15 years!

Also, the underseal used is constantly bombarded with stones & things you run over, when its fresh, it is resilient & waxy, after 5-8 years, it looses its oily nature & starts becomming brittle, meaning the areas that get bombarded, vanish, then create "underseal pockets" that water creaps under & causes rust faster than it would if it had no sealing at all!

Rust also doesnt tend start in the middle of a flat sheet of steel, it tends to start at joins or places where mud builds up. welded seems are usually the worst & are pretty much untreatable after a few years... Remember, galvanised panels have to have the zink stripped off (& weld thru seem sealer applied, which starts to deteriorate after 6-10 years) when they are welded, or the weld doesnt take place.

Its not only Fiat, my 10yo Jaguar XJR that cost around 10 times more than a Punto when new has more rust than my 20yo Daimler despite having fundimentally the same shell, mainly for 2 reasons, 1, when the shell was modified to take the V8 engine & subframe, they relocated the NSF brake pipe, creating a mud trap, & 2. where the chassis legs were modified to fit the V8 subframe, they made it 3 layers thick, making it almost impossible to rustproof & its right next to the mud trap brake pipe...

Its also suffered more from stone chipping round the arch lips because of the weaker water based paint used & they also used slightly thinner steel on the XJ8 to reduce weight to meet stricter economy requirements...

I`ve also seen rust on 5yo VW`s, Merks, BM`s & Audi`s recently, cars that 10-20 years ago were the leaders in building cars that didnt rust....

My 1993 Tempra has rusted in the following places despite the galvanising:

Outer edges of the floors where they join the inner sills (mainly to the drivers corner as my Dad jacked it wrongly about 5 yrs ago, which disrupted the paint, but the whole length of the sills on both sides had surface rust under the underseal)
Boot floor where it joins the rear panel behind the spare wheel well
Top corner of the NSR boot window (due to dirt build up behind the plastic gutter, both sides then removed, treated & rustproofed)
Bumper bracket extensions at the front & rear corners (just surface rust)

I`ve now treated these places [& welded the drivers floor edge] & have been inspecting & treating it annually over the last few years, also any sign of damage to the underseal has been locally scraped of, treated & re-undersealed.

My 1990 Uno is remarkably rust free, I`ve been all over her & the only signs are a 1mm bubble on the front wing an inch away from the sill & rust staining on the triangular gussets (what a lovely word!) between the inner wing & slam panel.

This summer, I`ll be stripping the Uno`s interior, carpets, bumpers & front wings & underseal, cleaning it, treating where nessicary & re-rustproofing the whole thing.

This might seem like overkill, but when a car that has a reputation for rusting has managed to last a decade longer than it was expected to, isnt it worth spending a few days prepairing it for yet another decade? I think so! (y)

Also, you say about Japanese imports not having any rustproofing, this is correct, when you look at Brazilian (see picture below of a Mk4 Uno) & Indian Fiats they also dont have any rustproofing. This is fine, they have much dryer climates than us & dont use salt to prevent ice on roads during winter, this is the main reason why cars in the UK rust so badly.

I think the Punto`s WILL last better from what I`ve seen, I regulary see 15yo Punto Mk1`s with no rust thanks to much smoother design & clutter free undersides, any rust tends to be the result of badly repaired damage.
 

Attachments

  • 3516113299_7ca0a75107_o.jpg
    3516113299_7ca0a75107_o.jpg
    864.9 KB · Views: 29
Last edited:
DSC00405.JPG
had a hard job welding the plated area around the shocker top, seen as theres a huge difference in thickness of both the plates- welder to high, penetrated the shocker top mounting area but melted sheet metal. welder not turned up enough- wouldnt penetrate into the shocker top mounting area:bang:.

i had to run i line of weld around the edge of the plate, then weld the line of welds to the shocker top mount.

not quite happy with the finish so will grind back the welds, and possibly reweld just for neatness. either way its solid:slayer:
 
Last edited:
Interesting reading in here on the rust issue. Thanks alexgs and A73uk. I am not really complaining, my 70s is really quite good, rust in the bottom of the doors, and worst of all as I have said before, around the edge of my sun roof. I was very interested in the oxidizing of metal in the manufacture process. Makes sense.
 
i believe only the bonnet and boot on mk2's were galv, and all cars rust inside out due to condensation, if you remove the protective membrane from behind the door panel even on a hot day its damp behind, like in the early mornings when there is damp on the grass and car, its all going on behind the scenes, my grale im restoring at the mo was waxoiled from new, still rusty tho! Ant!
 
Hey,
This is my old car and sumouno if you ever think of scrapping it again ring me i will buy it off you if i can. It was my first car and holds alot of memories so im glad you are putting her back on the road. The MOT Failure list i got when i bought the car had 23 points of failure and around 3 advisories on it!!!
 
Back
Top