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IPA Wipedown

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IPA Wipedown

SJB1985

SJB1985

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Morning All,

I am currently reading through a book called Art of Detailing by Mike Philips. I have came across "IPA Wipedown" I have had a search on the forum and cannot find much on the subject could anyone that has had experience with isopropyl alcohol good or bad please give me some feedback?

From my reading from the book it suggests 10% IPA to 90% water. Whereas I have read else where that 50/50 is the way to go or 30/70. Conflicting reading on other forums of do's and dont's and that it is not needed have left me with a few questions:

1) Is IPA necessary?
2) Is IPA safe?
3) How much damage if I am not careful could I do to the paint?
4) How much of a difference will I get compared to claying the car?

If anyone could summarise the whole IPA Wipdown process for me and give me the benefits I would very much appreciate it, this was not a process I had heard of until reading the book.

Kind regards and thanks as always
Stephen
 
IPA wipedowns is not an alternative to claying, it is mainly used to remove polishing oils from the paintwork so you can.
1) check that you have removed all defects as the oils will fill small amounts of marring and swirls, ipa will remove this and give you the paints true appearance
2) to make sure you are applying a quartz or any new nano coating to completely bare paint as they dont adhere well to oily films on the paint.

Unless you are doing either of the above (going for full correction) then i wouldnt bother.

It wont damage your paintwork either as itll flash off so quickly due to being a solvent plus your paintwork is fully cured. Tar remover is likely to do more damage if your paint was fresh.
 
Sweex said:
IPA wipedowns is not an alternative to claying, it is mainly used to remove polishing oils from the paintwork so you can.
1) check that you have removed all defects as the oils will fill small amounts of marring and swirls, ipa will remove this and give you the paints true appearance
2) to make sure you are applying a quartz or any new nano coating to completely bare paint as they dont adhere well to oily films on the paint.

Unless you are doing either of the above (going for full correction) then i wouldnt bother.

It wont damage your paintwork either as itll flash off so quickly due to being a solvent plus your paintwork is fully cured. Tar remover is likely to do more damage if your paint was fresh.
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Ok mate thanks for this, it just I got a DA machine polisher so I would like to do the best job I am capable of doing and was just wondering if IPA Wipedown was a necessary part of the process.
 
50/50 is the way and it is also a superb glass cleaner. ;)

If you are aorried about using it, try Capro's Eraser after a machine polish.
 
SJB1985 said:
Morning All,

I am currently reading through a book called Art of Detailing by Mike Philips. I have came across "IPA Wipedown" I have had a search on the forum and cannot find much on the subject could anyone that has had experience with isopropyl alcohol good or bad please give me some feedback?

From my reading from the book it suggests 10% IPA to 90% water. Whereas I have read else where that 50/50 is the way to go or 30/70. Conflicting reading on other forums of do's and dont's and that it is not needed have left me with a few questions:

1) Is IPA necessary?
2) Is IPA safe?
3) How much damage if I am not careful could I do to the paint?
4) How much of a difference will I get compared to claying the car?

If anyone could summarise the whole IPA Wipdown process for me and give me the benefits I would very much appreciate it, this was not a process I had heard of until reading the book.

Kind regards and thanks as always
Stephen
Click to expand...

Completely necessary following polishing as some polishes are oil heavy and therefore actually fill defects in and once these fallback these will reveal more defects that you would not see initially.

IPA safe it depends on the amounts I would only ever go max 50% IPA in the mix or ever increasing the amount of water.

It may if done to high it will "soften" some paints...although saying that anything in high solvent will cause paint to soften. For example I know of some with issues with Auto Finesse Tough Coat softening paint and the MSDS explains that with ease why.

Claying and IPA carry out completely different processes overall. Claying to smooth and clean, where as IPA will strip any oils from the surface.

If you are really being honest and to ever so slightly correct the above unless you really want or need filling products an IPA wide down ensures you get the best connection as it is going on bare clean paint. Putting any oil based product between that will enhance looks without question but there is a trail of thought to say in so doing you reduce some longevity of the wax sitting on the top. As essentially the wax can only be on the paint as long as the oil based product is there.

Additionally be careful in warm circumstances about using IPA as a glass cleaner if you have any window sealant products as they could damage the protection from it. Inside it is very useful and on bare clean glass outside yes for cleaning. Be careful when using it in warm temperatures as IPA sometimes flashes to quickly not allowing you to work the product long enough unlike a glass cleaner that can with stand longer periods. Although you should never use glass cleaners in direct sunlight as it is impossible to clean properly and you just make more of a mess.
 
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IPA can be faely used on paint at a ration of 50/50 with distilled water - I have used this mix on numerous occaisions on Alfa Romeo paint, with no issues whatsoever. IPA is very unlikely to "flash" when mixed 50/50 with water - distilled or otherwise. I have used this mix in all weathers, with no problems. Also, if there's a glass sealant on, you wont be needing to IPA the windows, will you?

If any of the issues raised ref IPA concern you, there is yet another alternative which can be massively diluted - which will not flash either - Citrus Bling from Valet Pro - they offer superb, no nonsense products that work very well, Poseidon Wash being one in particular and no, I don't work for Valet Pro before anyone makes the comment.

Citrus Bling is a cleaner, QD, Clay luber etc, etc, depending on the dilution ration however, someone will no doubt be along soon to tell you this too is no good and can only be used it certain tempertures, etc. One point to note is that it must be diluted approx 16:1 as a luber otherwise it will denigrate the clay.

http://www.valetpro.co.uk/maintain/citrusbling.html

http://www.valetpro.co.uk/maintain/poseidon-carnauba-wash.html

On a final note - all glass cleaners contain IPA.
 
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Rosso145 said:
IPA can be faely used on paint at a ration of 50/50 with distilled water - I have used this mix on numerous occaisions on Alfa Romeo paint, with no issues whatsoever. IPA is very unlikely to "flash" when mixed 50/50 with water - distilled or otherwise. I have used this mix in all weathers, with no problems. Also, if there's a glass sealant on, you wont be needing to IPA the windows, will you?

If any of the issues raised ref IPA concern you, there is yet another alternative which can be massively diluted - which will not flash either - Citrus Bling from Valet Pro - they offer superb, no nonsense products that work very well, Poseidon Wash being one in particular and no, I don't work for Valet Pro before anyone makes the comment.

Citrus Bling is a cleaner, QD, Clay luber etc, etc, depending on the dilution ration however, someone will no doubt be along soon to tell you this too is no good and can only be used it certain tempertures, etc. One point to note is that it must be diluted approx 16:1 as a luber otherwise it will denigrate the clay.

http://www.valetpro.co.uk/maintain/citrusbling.html

http://www.valetpro.co.uk/maintain/poseidon-carnauba-wash.html

On a final note - all glass cleaners contain IPA.
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IPA and Citrus Bling carryout completely different aspects of the process.

I personally agree on citrus bling being useful for the purposes stated however unlike IPA it won't remove anything left behind on the paint in preparation (should it be needed for sealants or coating products) if you were to look for a product replacement along that line it would be Car Pro Eraser or similar products of that vain.

There are a very small proportion out there that actually don't contain "IPA" directly itself, but similar chemical compositions. Additionally, of course you also have a varying degree of percentage of IPA in them, minimising that percentage obviously helps keep the life of any sealants, in my experience the spray can type glass cleaning products contain a lot of IPA content, some normal sprayer types like the 1Z product also do but for example Meguiars NXT glass cleaner (perfect clarity glass cleaner is it's new name) contain only 1-4% and therefore are barely noticeable. All of which is freely available from the MSDS.

IPA and the water mix is useful on the inside as it ensures a perfectly clean surface without concern for any sealant products.

I also have met times where the working life potential of IPA inside as a glass cleaner is very difficult at 50% and have had to cut it back a bit. But as said before it is best advice if you can to leave cleaning windows until they are cool for best workability factor.
 
Ninja59 said:
IPA and Citrus Bling carryout completely different aspects of the process.

I personally agree on citrus bling being useful for the purposes stated however unlike IPA it won't remove anything left behind on the paint
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Nobody suggested it would...........

"Citrus Bling is a cleaner, QD, Clay luber etc, etc"

Valet Pro Citrus Bling is an unusually versatile product.

1. Fast Wax (protects for 1 month)
2. Drying Aid (dilute 1:3 parts water)
3. Quick detailer (dilutes 1:3 upto 1:10)
4. Glass Cleaner
5. Clay lube (dilutes 1:16)
6. Paint clenanse and gloss enhancer

1. Fast wax - as a fast wax the product is either used neat or diluted 1:1. It is a simple process of spray and wipe. It delivers an exceptional shine with very little effort and will last about 3 weeks. A car can be citrus blinged (citrus bling does not contain wax) in a matter of minutes delivering a just waxed look on new and good quality paint work.

2. Drying aid - A quick spray on a panel and then wipe with a drying towel - citrus bling speeds up the drying process but also adds gloss to the paint work. Giving an impressive finish to a wash.

3. Quick detailer - has been used in showrooms to quickly remove dust and add extra gloss to the showroom cars quickly and easily. Citrus bling needs to be diluted 1:3 and up to 1:8 giving exceptional value for the quick detailers. Used regularly citrus bling as a quick detailer helps reduce dust and dirt build up on your car.

4. Glass cleaner - this is either a love or hate purpose for citrus bling. Some customers believe it's the best glass cleaner on the market while others don't. I think this is all down to personal method of glass cleaning. In truth it's an optional use but not for everyone.

5. Clay lube - this is one area where citrus bling excels. Truly exceptional value. One of the most important jobs for a clay lube is to create a barrier thick enough to protect the paint work but thin enough to allow the grime and contaminate to be picked up by the clay. Citrus bling does this exceptionally well but will also add gloss to the paint work while using it. This also helps to add shine in the long run when a wax is applied.

6. Paint cleanse and gloss enhancer - Valet ProCitrus bling contains orange peel derivatives that help clean the paint surface when used neat. This process removes tar, tree sap and other contaminates. It can be used with a duel action polisher, panel by panel, making sure you wipe up with a good quality micro fibre. This process gives the paint work extra gloss prior to wax application. If you're looking for a paint clenz with no abrasives then look no further. Citrus bling will knock your socks off.
 
sign shops use this on new vehicles so that the graphics stick well

it strips all the surface coatings back to bare paint, the car will look flat as a pancake after

it's very harsh stuff and take care to use it in a ventilated area - it is basically neat alcohol
 
RobW said:
sign shops use this on new vehicles so that the graphics stick well

it strips all the surface coatings back to bare paint, the car will look flat as a pancake after

it's very harsh stuff and take care to use it in a ventilated area - it is basically neat alcohol
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Never use it at 100% always mix it with water down to a max of 50% (and even then that is pretty heavy going).

IPA and even some of the best panel wipes are not quite chemically strong enough to remove completely some quartz based coatings, only real way to remove them is machining the paint.

As for the car looking as flat as pancake that is completely untrue as most of the correction and gloss comes from polishing as opposed to the final steps. Hence why many use it to remove the carrier oils to ensure they are going the right way and gain a true assessment of where the paint is as the carrier oils of polishes do have some filling ability.

If you are chasing gloss then you are far better polishing with a final finish polish (even if not aiming for full correction - although on some cars with soft paint full correction can nearly be done via finishing pad and polish on machine) than relying on the rest of the steps following polishing (such as glazes or last stage products).
 
When I used it on my car it stripped all the wax and polish off and paint was flat. Hope this makes sense.

Ninja59 said:
Never use it at 100% always mix it with water down to a max of 50% (and even then that is pretty heavy going).

IPA and even some of the best panel wipes are not quite chemically strong enough to remove completely some quartz based coatings, only real way to remove them is machining the paint.

As for the car looking as flat as pancake that is completely untrue as most of the correction and gloss comes from polishing as opposed to the final steps. Hence why many use it to remove the carrier oils to ensure they are going the right way and gain a true assessment of where the paint is as the carrier oils of polishes do have some filling ability.

If you are chasing gloss then you are far better polishing with a final finish polish (even if not aiming for full correction - although on some cars with soft paint full correction can nearly be done via finishing pad and polish on machine) than relying on the rest of the steps following polishing (such as glazes or last stage products).
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MrMurray20 said:
Well we all know the stuff branded as liquid clay is useless but this sounds like what it's supposed to be?

Sam
Click to expand...

No dude, it wont remove contaminants.
Itll just remove polishing oils after machine polishing to show you the 'true' finish of the paint because the oils can mask minor marring and swirls.
 
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