Winston
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hi there i am buying a uno turbo and dont no wot the common problem are just would like to know wot to look for
General help i am buying a uno turbo
- Thread starter Winston
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General help i am buying a uno turbo
Rust.
check rear turrets, boots, underside/floors, sills and bottom of doors is obvious and popular place for rust
for some reason my uno suffered from rust on the drivers side, i assumed that was due to passing vehicles
for some reason my uno suffered from rust on the drivers side, i assumed that was due to passing vehicles
mk1 or mk2?
electrical gremlins...everywhere, that under dash fuse and relay panel is a total pain in the arse. weak brakes, clonks in the suspension and if you're really lucky...a firewall that will smoulder
good luck
electrical gremlins...everywhere, that under dash fuse and relay panel is a total pain in the arse. weak brakes, clonks in the suspension and if you're really lucky...a firewall that will smoulder
good luck
I've never had electrical problems with my Uno Turbo Well, other than the fact my wiper motor and window motors are slow.
But yes - RUST, that's the only problem to worry about, everything else can be fixed economically.
Unonumero is right. You can have rust ANYWHERE on an Uno, but something I'm learned recently on the Turbo is to grasp the plastic trims on the edge of the wheelarches, and try to move the wheelarch in and out - if there's no resistance, that means it's rotted out behind.
The bottom few centimetres of each door (folded-over seams) are likely to be rusting from the inside-out and this is difficult to cure properly.
However that pales to insignificance compared with rust in the floor, rust in the roof, rust in the doorframes, rust in the door pillars, rust in the sills, rust around the rear tailgate opening, rust in the rear inner wheelarches, rust in the panel behind the rear bumper, rust in the rear suspension turrets AND front suspension turrets, rust in the... ...lighter socket, oh I think you're getting the idea.
Jai summarised the suspension; clonks are common. Easily fixed - just budget for new control arms, new steering balljoints, new antiroll bar bushes, and probably new shock absorbers. All of these are not expensive compared to newer cars and fitting is relatively easy.
f you don't fancy shelling out for an engine rebuild, you should probably check that there's no signs of water in the oil and no signs of oil in the coolant tank. There shouldn't be swirls of smoke (and the clutch shouldn't slip) when the turbocharger boosts up. And it should be possible to drive 'normally' without crunching synchros. All of these things are worth fixing, however, if the bodyshell is good.
Cheers,
-Alex
Well, other than the fact my wiper motor and window motors are slow.But yes - RUST, that's the only problem to worry about, everything else can be fixed economically.
Unonumero is right. You can have rust ANYWHERE on an Uno, but something I'm learned recently on the Turbo is to grasp the plastic trims on the edge of the wheelarches, and try to move the wheelarch in and out - if there's no resistance, that means it's rotted out behind.
The bottom few centimetres of each door (folded-over seams) are likely to be rusting from the inside-out and this is difficult to cure properly.
However that pales to insignificance compared with rust in the floor, rust in the roof, rust in the doorframes, rust in the door pillars, rust in the sills, rust around the rear tailgate opening, rust in the rear inner wheelarches, rust in the panel behind the rear bumper, rust in the rear suspension turrets AND front suspension turrets, rust in the... ...lighter socket, oh I think you're getting the idea.
Jai summarised the suspension; clonks are common. Easily fixed - just budget for new control arms, new steering balljoints, new antiroll bar bushes, and probably new shock absorbers. All of these are not expensive compared to newer cars and fitting is relatively easy.
f you don't fancy shelling out for an engine rebuild, you should probably check that there's no signs of water in the oil and no signs of oil in the coolant tank. There shouldn't be swirls of smoke (and the clutch shouldn't slip) when the turbocharger boosts up. And it should be possible to drive 'normally' without crunching synchros. All of these things are worth fixing, however, if the bodyshell is good.
Cheers,
-Alex
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the hole car rusts check out
rear turrets
outer sills
inner sills
front turrets
floorpan
just check out the whole car with a fine tooth comb
check out rear turrets
outer sills
inner sills
front turrets
floorpan
just check out the whole car with a fine tooth comb
turbo_jim
New member
Also, the rear wash/wipe pipe can come adrift from the glass and shower your back seat passengers...
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You have three routes to go down:
1) Buy a mint original (Around £3-4000 now but they dont come up much at all)
2) Buy a good condition and sort it out
3) Buy a 1.0 shell and a rotton turbo and convert it to turbo
Dont think they are accesable if you dont want to get your hands dirty!
Garages will rape your wallet because the preception is that they are hard to work on.....when in reality they arent!
1) Buy a mint original (Around £3-4000 now but they dont come up much at all)
2) Buy a good condition and sort it out
3) Buy a 1.0 shell and a rotton turbo and convert it to turbo
Dont think they are accesable if you dont want to get your hands dirty!
Garages will rape your wallet because the preception is that they are hard to work on.....when in reality they arent!
Crash damage seems quite common.
