It's actually quite easy!
Just remove the chrome strip above the console by prising it out with a screwdriver. Then the same with the top of the console working it from one corner to the other. It will lift up enough without having to remove the gear stick to reveal the 2 bulbs which you remove by giving them a 90 degree turn.
You can replace them with LED ones but this with give you more of a bright spot on the display over then conventional bulb.