General Head Gasket Guide!!
- Thread starter levemircento
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General Head Gasket Guide!!
nicely done and lots of pics!!
OP
OP
thankyou kind sir!
anyone know if the cam can be changed without taking the head off??
Yeah, not a problem. Only thing you need to do is to lock up the pulley directly before you try and loosen the nut (very tight and there's a danger of shearing the keyways). Worthwhile replacing the seals and checking the shimming while you're in there.
nice guide 
OP
OP
been thinking about this, how can the cam come out if it is compressing some of the valves?
Essentially, you undo the belt tensioner, lock the cam sprocket, undo the nut, remove the spray bar, undo the bolts holding the halves of the cam bearings a little bit at a time and it pops out. There's very, very little (if any) residual tension there as the cam will naturally find the position of least tension.
Even the book of lies suggests removing the cam (with pulley attached) if you have to replace several shims.
Even the book of lies suggests removing the cam (with pulley attached) if you have to replace several shims.
OP
OP
ah right, so it comes out from above then? its just that it looks like it has to come out through the hole where the coil pack fits in
my manual, a porter, is still in the shed so I will have to go and take a peek at it tomorrow
Its rattly as hell, it sounds like an old fiesta engine!! whereas with its original head and cam it was really smooth, it might be that the shims need doing, but I will have quite a selection seeing as I have two different heads now, both with cams in.
my manual, a porter
, is still in the shed so I will have to go and take a peek at it tomorrowIts rattly as hell, it sounds like an old fiesta engine!! whereas with its original head and cam it was really smooth, it might be that the shims need doing, but I will have quite a selection seeing as I have two different heads now, both with cams in.
nicely done, can i suggest adding a couple of things though.
flush the cooling system if it has had oil in it.
also, the head bolts.. before being fitted, they should be oiled. What i do, is dip them in oil and then wipe most of the excess of. Too much oil is bad, but it should have a bit in there.
the sensor near no1, is for the temperature gauge and the blue sensor on the inlet manifold is the ECU's coolant temperature sensor.
flush the cooling system if it has had oil in it.
also, the head bolts.. before being fitted, they should be oiled. What i do, is dip them in oil and then wipe most of the excess of. Too much oil is bad, but it should have a bit in there.
the sensor near no1, is for the temperature gauge and the blue sensor on the inlet manifold is the ECU's coolant temperature sensor.
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If you're lucky it's just the shims. Like rallycinq says, pop off the cover and check for oil flow to the top end, though.
OP
OP
nicely done, can i suggest adding a couple of things though.
flush the cooling system if it has had oil in it.
also, the head bolts.. before being fitted, they should be oiled. What i do, is dip them in oil and then wipe most of the excess of. Too much oil is bad, but it should have a bit in there.
the sensor near no1, is for the temperature gauge and the blue sensor on the inlet manifold is the ECU's coolant temperature sensor.
It does say I put plain water in, while I checked for leaks etc, then drained and refilled with water/antifreeze
The bolts were soaked in diesel for a few hours before fitting, then any excess wiped off just before fitting, too wet and it can lead to hydraulicing[?], I forgot to mention that, plus, some bolts come pre oiled, ones I have bought in the past have been.
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i'll confess to not reading the bit about refilling, sorry!
i would say its worth adding that bit in about oil on the bolts though.
i would say its worth adding that bit in about oil on the bolts though.
