hi all i thought when you pull handbrake up it only does one caliper but is this true or should it work both
Technical handbrake
- Thread starter uno170bhp
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Technical handbrake
Ha - that would be a disaster for our brake balance tests (WOF - MOT equivalent).
The cable runs around a pulley on a lever mounted on the rear axle beam. It should therefore apply equal effort to both sides. In theory.
Spray this lever and pulley with a penetrant/lubricating spray - make sure the lever is not catching on the exhaust - and grease the curved arms at the ends of the cable where they disappear into the drums. Ooops - I see you've got a Turbo. Spray the operating levers on the calipers and hope that you don't need to rebuild the calipers... test that the cables move freely.
The handbrake lever tends to crack the floorpan mountings. This can be repaired with large washers and longer bolts.
-Alex
The cable runs around a pulley on a lever mounted on the rear axle beam. It should therefore apply equal effort to both sides. In theory.
Spray this lever and pulley with a penetrant/lubricating spray - make sure the lever is not catching on the exhaust - and grease the curved arms at the ends of the cable where they disappear into the drums. Ooops - I see you've got a Turbo. Spray the operating levers on the calipers and hope that you don't need to rebuild the calipers... test that the cables move freely.
The handbrake lever tends to crack the floorpan mountings. This can be repaired with large washers and longer bolts.
-Alex
might just buy a new one its probably easyier
cheers
cheers
a new...what? car? 
-Alex
-Alex
alexGS said:
This is a common mistake. The handbrake does not actually need to be balanced, only the service brake needs to be balanced. The handbrake
only needs to pass the performance test. Stop in 18m at 30km/hr or one of the equilivent tests. 1/5 test, stall test.
i dont know really it failed mot for it wastn enough brake effiency
ill just buy a new caliper
ill just buy a new caliper
SteveNZ said:
Please see http://www.landtransport.govt.nz/publications/vir-manual/general-vehicles/8-brakes-v2-3.pdf
I think we're both right on this one. Paragraph 34 states (as a reason for failure
34. When the parking brake is applied:
...
c) it does not hold all the wheels on a common axle stationary against attempts to drive the vehicle away.
Other two requirements were exactly as you stated (and I think c) is what you mean by the stall test). Obviously though, if one side was not as strong as the other side, the wheel would turn - and that would be a fail under c).
Come to that, have you ever failed to drive away in a car with the handbrake on? So I suppose that means most cars would fail c).
My local WOF station (not VTNZ) just tests the handbrake on the rollers and if imbalanced, it's a fail. I think they quoted 50% as the maximum imbalance they allow. So if I want a WOF, my handbrake needs to work evenly - or I could perhaps find somewhere else for a WOF...
There's probably also a rule somewhere that allows testing stations to be more stringent than necessary!
uno170bhp - I think you should only replace the caliper once you've cleaned/lubricated the cables (a more likely cause) and also ask to see the result of the service brake (footbrake) test. If that was balanced OK, then that rules out discs/pads or the caliper sliding pins.
-Alex
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I dont know where testing stations come up with their rules. That rule C still does not state hand brake needs to be balanced, only that both wheels must lock. That is quite different and not sutable for a roller test anyway! This is an equlivent test too, not a "real" test. Its stuable for cars that cant be tested in the usual manor. If you're out to fail a car you can alwasy find some way. To pass a hand brake test you only need to pass 1 of the tests not all of them. Im not saying you cant be failed for a handbrake imbalance. Just that you shouldn't if it stll meats the performance criteria (18m/30km/h) as that is the law, (equlivent test is not the law).
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well every1 has confussed me :bang:
Why? I thought we'd answered your question first!
I suggested checking the cable pulley & lever on the rear axle beam. Lubricate with some spray penetrating oil, check that the cables are moving freely (get someone else to pull the lever inside the car).
Check that your service brakes (footbrake) was sufficiently balanced left-right on the MOT test report. If not, then perhaps the rear discs and caliper sliders should be investigated.
If the cables are now OK but the lever on the caliper is still not moving, then replace the caliper as you wanted to.
Clear now?
I think your posts are too short - I don't know which part had confused you? But please don't worry about the Warrant Of Fitness regulations in New Zealand - that discussion wasn't directed at you!
-Alex
I suggested checking the cable pulley & lever on the rear axle beam. Lubricate with some spray penetrating oil, check that the cables are moving freely (get someone else to pull the lever inside the car).
Check that your service brakes (footbrake) was sufficiently balanced left-right on the MOT test report. If not, then perhaps the rear discs and caliper sliders should be investigated.
If the cables are now OK but the lever on the caliper is still not moving, then replace the caliper as you wanted to.
Clear now?
I think your posts are too short - I don't know which part had confused you? But please don't worry about the Warrant Of Fitness regulations in New Zealand - that discussion wasn't directed at you!
-Alex
got mechanic on case new caliper on £60 so if it comes down to it not to bad.
needed a new rear bearing but they only come with hub got quoted £100 from fiat dealer but had a look among my spares found a brand new one , wat a result
needed a new rear bearing but they only come with hub got quoted £100 from fiat dealer but had a look among my spares found a brand new one , wat a result
