Hi Tim;
I will try and answer you queries one by one.
(1)--mixture screw and spring in stock at Eurocarb
(2)--throttle lever--no longer available (N/L/A)--you will have to borrow one (to give you a template) and make one
(3)--choke link--N/L/A--but it is possible to run these carbs sans choke (I am)--just 1 or 2 slow pumps on the throttle prior to cranking engine when cold
(4)--pump jet--in stock at Eurocarb---I have a '50' fitted
(5)--needle and seat--in stock at Eurocarb
(6)--non-return valve--in stock at Eurocarb
(7)--main-jet holder--in stock at Eurocarb--get yourself a small selection of main jets--125, 128,130,132 is a good starting selection (Eurocarb seem to have their main jet numbers screwed-up!)
(8)--Emulsion tube--I have found that the 6747/3 gives better progression than the 6747/8--but you just have to 'suck 'n see'
(9)--air-correction jet---190 seems to be the optimum variant--everybody seems to settle on this jet.
A common mistake is for people to think that if the engine hesitates on acceleration that it needs a richer (bigger) jet. This is not often so---with the accelerator pump coming into operation, hesitation is often caused by too RICH a mixture. I have gone down a couple of sizes with both my main and idle jets and the engine is pulling better and idling more smoothly. As I have said before, everybody seems to have a slightly different setting, which works well for them--but a session on a dyno is really the only way to set the carb up correctly--any other way is just p---g into the wind, with no guarantee of a decent result.
I have fitted a SU throttle rod (and ball joints) on my engine/carb--it comes with proper left and right-hand threads so that adjusting the rod is
just a matter of undoing the lock nuts and turning the rod--in/out.
Chris:- to answer your question---yes my carb is back together due to your help and generosity---I am however doing my jet experimenting with the carb that I got from Steve Gurney (in Cambridge) and will then jet my carb to match and re-fit it