Retro Pedro
Member
- Joined
- Apr 24, 2011
- Messages
- 233
- Points
- 56
I've still got an ongoing or should I say nongoing issues with my 1.9JTD 8 valve.
I've change the glow plugs which (touching wood) as got rid of the flashing glow plug light.
I've also cleaned out and got the EGR valve spring functioning again. Cleaned out the MAP sensor and fitted a new Bosch crank shaft timing sensor and still I've got a constant EML yellow light on and non starting motor.
I've had the multimeter out and know for sure that I'm not getting any electrical feed down onto the lift pump (in the tank).
I've only got the owners handbook so I'm a bit limited to relative info for fuses and relays. The 7.5amp pump fuse (engine compartment fuse box) is fine. Also there is a red fuse in the glove box that is fine (apologies for being vague but I'll get the handbook in and edit with specific info). From there I've put the multimeter propes into the 7.5amp fuse sockets and still no reading.
Not sure if I'm correct, but my logic tells me that the source electrical feed goes to the relay and the fuse is positioned inline after the relay to act as a safety cut out device for that circuit should it get overloaded. I really need to establish what relay feeds the lift pump circuit and then put into practice what I viewed on youtube and test the feed relay. As a short term investigation I did swap a few exact same coded relays around in the engine bay fuse box and it made no difference.
So my first question is what other components, sensors would influence the electric feed to the lift pump. Would the oil pressure switch have an effect. Would it be the ECU not instructing a component to allow a feed through the lift pump circuit.
Would the immobilier be interfering with my problem. Again my logic says I don't think so, because I don't get the yellow dashboard padlock symbol coming on.
Second question: would the immobiliser interfer with the lift pump electric feed? I've always thought that the immobiliser on a diesel doesn't allow the solenoid to activate on the diesel pump.
Weird thing is that if I can bypass the lift pump the car will run. Previously, I've rigged up a small hand pump and drew diesel from a can and pushed it into the main diesel pressure pump and the car ran. I've borrowed a small 12 volt priming pump and when I can sort out the pipe connections, I'm going to try and fit it into the diesel feed pipe line after the fuel filter and see if that will draw diesel up from the tank and allow the car to run. Confident that it will, because I've already drawn diesel up from the tank through the filter with my hand pump.
I want to have another go at finding out why no electric is getting to the lift pump, then if that doesn't work, I reckon I might have to get the white flag out and get the car to a diagnostic independent garage and see what they say. One garage said £25 for the diagnostic, another said they would do it for free as long as they got the repair job.
Don't really want to entertain the main stealers to be charge at the £100 + per hour rate for the diagnostics only to be potentially told it's the blanket new ECU/fuel pump replacement requirement.
I have bought a 327 plug in connector but can't get any sense of it with the laptop - probably my lack of IT skill in that department.
I'm also trying to download the wiring diagrams from the download section but that's on another thread with a request for an idiots guide how to do it.
Thanks for any forthcoming help with my dilema.:bang:
I've change the glow plugs which (touching wood) as got rid of the flashing glow plug light.
I've also cleaned out and got the EGR valve spring functioning again. Cleaned out the MAP sensor and fitted a new Bosch crank shaft timing sensor and still I've got a constant EML yellow light on and non starting motor.
I've had the multimeter out and know for sure that I'm not getting any electrical feed down onto the lift pump (in the tank).
I've only got the owners handbook so I'm a bit limited to relative info for fuses and relays. The 7.5amp pump fuse (engine compartment fuse box) is fine. Also there is a red fuse in the glove box that is fine (apologies for being vague but I'll get the handbook in and edit with specific info). From there I've put the multimeter propes into the 7.5amp fuse sockets and still no reading.
Not sure if I'm correct, but my logic tells me that the source electrical feed goes to the relay and the fuse is positioned inline after the relay to act as a safety cut out device for that circuit should it get overloaded. I really need to establish what relay feeds the lift pump circuit and then put into practice what I viewed on youtube and test the feed relay. As a short term investigation I did swap a few exact same coded relays around in the engine bay fuse box and it made no difference.
So my first question is what other components, sensors would influence the electric feed to the lift pump. Would the oil pressure switch have an effect. Would it be the ECU not instructing a component to allow a feed through the lift pump circuit.
Would the immobilier be interfering with my problem. Again my logic says I don't think so, because I don't get the yellow dashboard padlock symbol coming on.
Second question: would the immobiliser interfer with the lift pump electric feed? I've always thought that the immobiliser on a diesel doesn't allow the solenoid to activate on the diesel pump.
Weird thing is that if I can bypass the lift pump the car will run. Previously, I've rigged up a small hand pump and drew diesel from a can and pushed it into the main diesel pressure pump and the car ran. I've borrowed a small 12 volt priming pump and when I can sort out the pipe connections, I'm going to try and fit it into the diesel feed pipe line after the fuel filter and see if that will draw diesel up from the tank and allow the car to run. Confident that it will, because I've already drawn diesel up from the tank through the filter with my hand pump.
I want to have another go at finding out why no electric is getting to the lift pump, then if that doesn't work, I reckon I might have to get the white flag out and get the car to a diagnostic independent garage and see what they say. One garage said £25 for the diagnostic, another said they would do it for free as long as they got the repair job.
Don't really want to entertain the main stealers to be charge at the £100 + per hour rate for the diagnostics only to be potentially told it's the blanket new ECU/fuel pump replacement requirement.
I have bought a 327 plug in connector but can't get any sense of it with the laptop - probably my lack of IT skill in that department.
I'm also trying to download the wiring diagrams from the download section but that's on another thread with a request for an idiots guide how to do it.
Thanks for any forthcoming help with my dilema.:bang:
