Classic 500 newbie

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Classic 500 newbie

Hello Frog,
I'd say check all the things you'd check on any car but due to the age particulary check for under body rust. Most other things like brakes, suspension, engine components can be fixed quite easily as these are simple cars and you'd expect to have to do some work given the age of the car (unless fully restored.)
Most importantly for me when buying a car is history and ownership
How long have they owned it? If only owned for short periods, ask yourself why are they selling?
Other than that given how classic car prices are going, I'd say these are good investments.
Hope that helps.
Pete
 
Thanks Pete, totally get what you are saying, surprised about how available pats are, hoping a rhd will accept almost all the parts a lhd will? Plus in Wales we are soon entering a 20mph speed limit on all residential roads so a 500 will feel at home!
Regards the rust, is it likely I’ll see welding for replacing bits or do you mean the magnet test to look for filler? Or are you thinking visible and a tentative poke with a screwdriver??
Cheers
Frog
 
+1 on above: rust is the big issue.
Not sure a seller would be too happy if you start attacking their car with a screwdriver! Magnet is useful tho.
I wouldn't be too surprised to see signs of welding - ok as long as it's a proper repair and not capping some rotten tin.
As long as it's not making any horrible noises, smells or smoke, there's only so much you can find out on a viewing - the journey of discovery starts when you get it home!
I'd fully expect to have to attend to some consumables on a car of this age - brakes, suspension, steering, fluids...
As with any old car, it helps massively if you can do your own maintenance - there's always something that needs attention and labour bills can soon mount up.
With any newly acquired old car I would allocate a few days to get her up in the air, wheels off, carpets out, and a thorough clean. Find out where the mud traps are and be prepared to treat any rusty spots immediately.
There are some good products out there - I use Fertan for surface rust, Dinitrol for injecting into cavities.
A dry garage is essential, as is a good trolley jack, axle stands, ramps, breaker bar, decent sockets, selection of wire brushes for drill & angle grinder, safety glasses and gloves, and a multimeter.
Fingers crossed she's a good 'un, and enjoy!
 
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