General bravo 1.4 12v wont start

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General bravo 1.4 12v wont start

jay_c

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i have changed fuel pump checked fuses under bonnett and the ones next to da steerin wheel and changed crankshaft sensor any other ideas what it could be the aa bloke said the injector isnt kickin in any idea y tried everythin else apart from new ecu but wanna make sure it dat first
 
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ok i no dat much but do u have any ideas wat is wrong wid it apart from its a 1.4
 
Well first of all, what about the simple things? the AA said fuel injectors? could also be spark plugs/starter motor etc

Come on Jug this usually your department!!

(by the way i also have a 1.4 strangly mines not starting either but thats something to do with me knackering the clutch or something
 
sorry mate i was in a rush so had 2 type as quick as possible and nah it not starter motor or clutch just dont no what it is its just a mystery
 
Isnt ther a Fuel cutoff valve in the passenger compartment?
 
had diagnostic done today and turns out its the crank sensor so the chap i brought the other one off sold me a broken one great ay it o well should be fixed tomorrow let u no how it goes
 
its pissing me off now changed it with a definate workin one and its still now workin any ideas why im goin to spray the connectors tommorrow to if that will help any other ideas i can try tho
 
nah it goes off tested for power coming to the crank sensor and theres 4.65v goin to it so thats all right but its still not startin
 
lol @ "tried everythin else apart from new ecu". you've barely touched it yet.

you've changed the fuel pump but have you checked it is actually switching on or if fuel is getting to the throttle case? you should at least check the basics at this stage before you go fitting new parts in haste.

when you turn ignition on the fuel pump should work for 5 seconds exactly. you can check this is happening by removing the fuel pump cover in the boot and listening for it switching on for 5 secs when ignition is switched on.

now check for fuel pressure by loosening off the fuel line where it joins to the throttle body. there should be pressure causing fuel to squirt out (use a rag to catch it). once the pressure is completly lost reconnect the fuel line securely and then switch the ignition on so the fuel pump will build up pressure again, do this a couple of times. now remove the fuel pipe again and check that fuel squirts out again. if it does you can be sure that the throttle case is getting fuel ok.

assuming the fuel is getting to throttle case ok i would next check ignition. remove a spark plug and check for sparks when you try to start it.

assuming you have sparks put plug back and then try to start it for a good few minutes, then remove all the plugs to see if they are wet or dry (smell of petrol and wipe on tissue if unsure).

if they are dry you know you have injection problems, most likely a sensor failure (lambda, air temp & coolant temp sensors all control fueling) i'd replace the whole throttle case with a scrapyard one (£20 or less), and also fit a scrapyard lambda. also if your temp gauge was not working before the starting problem started that may be the problem.

if they are wet it suggests ignition timing problems (battery voltage, coolant temp sensor, crankshaft position sensor & knock sensor all control ignition). could also be compression problems (valve timing etc, do a quick compression test)

its funny how often a crap battery causes problems on the 1.4 model, and since your CPS voltage is very low at 4.65v i would check the battery first, the CPS should get 5v.
 
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ok mate cheers i done all that with the fuel pump and with spark plugs and its still not startin and the spark plugs are dry so should i change the throttle case i have been told it could be the wiring to the ecu from the crank sensor also when u put the new sensor in would it matter if there was oil or grease on it
 
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the crankshaft position sensor's signal is based on magnetism, which is not affected by oil or grease, so that is nothing to worry about.

you can easily test the sensor's wiring.

on the connector there are 3 pins.

pin1 is on the left when the connector is held with the clip at the top.
this pin goes to pin16 on the ecu connector.
do a continuity test with a multimeter between both pins.

pin2 is in the centre of the connector.
this pin goes to pin32 on the ecu connector.
do a continuity test with a multimeter between both pins.

pin3 is on the right when the connector is held with the clip at the top.
this pin goes to chassis earth.
do a continuity test with a multimeter between this pin and a good earth.

if all 3 show continuity you know the wiring is fine.

next i would fit a scrapyard throttle case. this will replace the air temp sensor (and several other commonly faultly parts).

if that fails to work the coolant temp sensor should be tested (you could do this first if you prefer, its easy and saves wasting time and money elsewhere)

failing that the lambda is the only possiblilties left are a wiring fault elsewhere or an ecu fault. testing the wiring for everything is a pain, but its a neccessary step if it comes down to it. i can give you more testing strategies for other sensors if needs be.

dont forget the possiblity of low battery power, it is critical on the 1.4 models that the battery is in good condition.
 
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ok cheers mate yeah could you give me the ways 2 test the other sensors i want to try and fix it myself instead of paying through the roof at a garage
 
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