Technical Better brakes?

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Technical Better brakes?

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I turned my Sedici's brakes into wobbly things on the track day. Currently on drilled and grooved blackdiamond brakes with their matched predator pads.

Only had brake fade once so thinking the pads are pretty good, but the discs must have warped since I was getting a very harsh vibration through the steering and brake pedal under braking, which went away after a couple of laps of 'chilled' driving. So, where to go with the brakes?

Other than not having the performance of the Turbo boys the car did well. Can only aspire to imagine how well Rich's Tipo must feel on a track.
 
I have the standard discs on the front just with uprated pads and for some reason grooved discs on the rear again with uprated pads (came like it when i breought it) they seem to cope well with the power my car puts out cosidering its a turbo. not done a track day in it though that could be a diff story.lol
 
Rob you can make a comparison when I first built the car it raced on konis and eibachs much like yours I think - in comparison to now it was lame as sh*t which will give you an impression of what it is like now.

Anyway brakes - well if you are fading then its either the fluid boiling - that will give a pedal which goes to the floor, or the pads are out of their temp range which is a firm pedal with little retardation. As for discs well welcome to my world I have 2 set of discs that have been ground 4 times now, ifthe pads dont wear them out then the re-griding will. Solid discs (ie not 2 part as opposed to vented/unvented) behind those wheel will warp what ever, I have cooling ducts too, make little difference, its the cooling cycle for me which causes the warp, on the track no real issue. So I would go for a ds3000 pad for the track and get some spare discs, or put the coupe 16vt calipers on as well as it s easy. But if you're trying on the track you will kill the discs everytime. BUT -- It only cost £20 for a regrind of the pair to take off 7thou.
 
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Must have been pads out of their temp range as i cruised into knickerbrooke. Pedal felt good but it just wouldn't stop.

What brand disc do you use? Do you have any grooves/holes? Mine were noticably giving me heavy vibration which went away when I left them alone for 2 laps. Shame they only seemed to last 5-6 laps before they started giving me the shakes.

Drove the 150 miles home without issue.
 
I'm told that the brake bias valve spring when properly sorted can make a huge difference. i'm looking into it myself but don't quite understand if i have to replace the spring, or just add the 5 kg as mentioned in this pic.



apparently, even with the spring broken it may pass an MoT with enough efficiency. This applies to all tipos even those with drums, and nose diving under braking is the main sympton which i think my old one suffered from.

i'm trying to get a how to guide as i don't quite understand what's needed as there is talk of having the rear wheels in the air, on paving slabs or something:confused:
 
Right from what i understand, you basically need to do exactly as the picture says surprisingly lol. back wheels need to be on the ground supporting the cars weight but if you reverse it onto some paving slabs for example you get more room to get access to it.

-first of all locate it, which is above the exhaust by the back wheel.
-Spray liberally with WD40 as it's likely to of seized up. leave to soak before doing anything.
-Undo the securing screw, check there is movement (it doesn't move that much as far as i know but it should be able to move) in the arm and that there is tension in the spring, if there's little tension the spring will either need removing and retensioning/replacing, which is meant to be a bit awkward.
-Next Apply the 5kg on the hook, and do up the screw

take the weight off. and the job should be done. i'll try it on mine as soon as possible and report back just so if there are any problems and hopefully the much better feel to the brakes.
 
The car needs to be level as what you're adjusting is the amount of rear brake effort depending on how far the ARB has been moved. A car will pass MOT without the valve but you will probably find you lock the rear wheels a lot.
 
Pah who cars about rear bias on a dryish track you dont need any, rear wheels do sod all, and if they do too much then they lock, which is horrible see my original silverstone video for that!!

Coupe 16vt calipers fit tipo discs, tipo dics are the same dimension as 16vt dics but with a few mm offset difference. I have Brembo discs one drilled and one undrilled, not a lot of difference i.e. none between them.
 
I was amazed that I actually got the rear wheels HOT on the trackday. Think that's the first time I've felt heat coming off the back ones.

Same thickness... ah well that pretty much ties it down to either manufacurer or the combination of grooves and drilled just taking too much out of the strength.
 
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