Tuning Any Reviews- fiat500sport Engine Kits?

[Bleeding Knuckles]

Tom, if the car is fitted with the oil cooler and larger pan then is it still likely to run hot? And 10.5:1 is higher than I intend, I'd prefer no higher than 10:1 to ensure I can run it on whatever pump gas is available even with the 123's timing advance. I'd like to skim as little as possible from the head to allow a future skim if needed years later. The 28IMB is already on my shopping list, got a local spot selling it for 180 euros. And yes, reliability will be important as the American cruises are typically much longer than Sicilian ones.

Hi Andrew, I have an oil cooler and a 4 ltr sump, my engine is tuned and does run hot, but I am running at 9.83:1 C/R and using 99 octane fuel with additive for 101 octane to prevent detonation. I can control the heat easily and keep it within sensible limits. I have been told by at least two different 500 engine builders that a fuel octane of 95 is ok for 9.5:1 but, it is dependant on the cam and if you intend to change it too. These engines soak up the money when it comes to any Mods
Ian.

 

[the hobbler]

I think what we tend to miss sometimes is the fact that the 500 was designed for Italy---in summer a HOT country! Aurelio Lampredi, the engine's designer was a highly capable engine designer; among his other designs were various Ferrari engines and possibly his most 'variated' and widely used design, the Fiat twin-cam engine.
Fiat advise one in the (factory) 'book of words' that the oil light can flicker on when the engine is idling 'hot', as long as it goes out as soon as the throttle is 'blipped'. In my own experience, the fitment of the 3-1/2 litre aluminium sump is ample for the vast bulk of all running situations. If the 110/126 engine is taken out to a big capacity (800cc) this is so far beyond what Lampredi planned, that the engine CAN suffer overheating. It can also produce a power level way beyond what the suspension/transmission was designed for, so they need to be (often expensively!) uprated. For what it is worth, remembering that nobody buys the 500 to go fast (relatively speaking), my advice is always--stick to a max of 700cc (or 704 if you are using BIS pistons)---the engine will be reliable yet still give you a sensible performance improvement.

 

[Hutbed]

Ian and Tom, this is exactly why I joined the forum. Excellent input from those more experienced, helping me to avoid costly mistakes. I'd be a fool not to listen, so 700 it is then!

 

[Bleeding Knuckles]

Ian and Tom, this is exactly why I joined the forum. Excellent input from those more experienced, helping me to avoid costly mistakes. I'd be a fool not to listen, so 700 it is then!

Hi Andrew, The guy I mentioned before seems to have moved to Messina !!!
Anyway his Ebay name is Lafo_it he has a shop with lots of stuff including a nice looking Dellorto FRDB 34 for € 195. (from an air-cooled VW) I purchased my twin Solex C35 from him and had a good experience. Good luck
Ian.

 

[Hutbed]

Ian, thanks! I checked out his EBay store, he's got some good stuff.
I will start looking for a 126 mk2 engine this weekend around the local salvage yards and internet listings. I'm looking for one with a good crank case, crankshaft, and head primarily. The rest will be built of new parts, and of course I will start a new thread for the build.

 

[the hobbler]

Whilst looking for a 652cc '126' engine, see if you can also lay your hands on the 126 gearbox---the bell-housing and starter for the 500 vis-a-vie the 126 are different--one won't fit the other. However, a 126 bell-housing can be fitted to the 500 gearbox quite easily (and you then won't have to change the drive shafts) the 126 gear-box will have to have its drive-shafts removed (too long) and be replaced by 500 drive-shafts (and couplings).

 

[Hutbed]

Important question- how can you determine if it is a MK1 or MK2 126 engine?

 

[Toshi 975]

Important question- how can you determine if it is a MK1 or MK2 126 engine?

Assuming the engine has not been messed with all of the later 650 engines have 650 on top of the cylinder head casting.

 

[the hobbler]

Look at the engine number---126A for a '595'and 126A1 for a '652. The '650'on the cylinder head is not always a sound guide as per David's (Toshi) warning, the engine may have been 'messed around' with.