Technical Alternator refurb

Currently reading:
Technical Alternator refurb

BrianMcL

Member
Joined
Dec 20, 2009
Messages
662
Points
132
Hi All,
Just thought I'd quickly post to ask whether anyone knows if it's possible to refurb the alternator?

I've got it stored along with my old EGR at the moment but as it's only done 23k miles or thereabouts it seems a waste just to throw it away.

I'll have a bash at refurbing the EGR using the guide available elsewhere on this forum at some point.
 
Yes it is,in fact that's what usually happens when one has alternator problems,they get refurbed.Not a DIY job though.
 
I read somewhere that the design fault with these particular alternators is the rectifier, not the alternator itself. For non-electroniccies this is what turns ac into dc.

If that's the case then a refurb should be very possible as a DIY job. In fact, if (when) mine packs in, I'm planning on taking it off and hopefully repairing it and putting the same one back in.

I'd need to see one to work out what's involved, but if this is true then it's nothing like a proper refurb, i.e. rewinding coils etc.
 
I read somewhere that the design fault with these particular alternators is the rectifier, not the alternator itself. For non-electroniccies this is what turns ac into dc.

If that's the case then a refurb should be very possible as a DIY job. In fact, if (when) mine packs in, I'm planning on taking it off and hopefully repairing it and putting the same one back in.

I'd need to see one to work out what's involved, but if this is true then it's nothing like a proper refurb, i.e. rewinding coils etc.

Hi Doofer,
If you could tell me what you'd need to see I can take and post pictures of mine if you want?
 
Well I don't know for a fact that it is the rectifier, and I haven't had a look at one myself. But I will be pulling mine apart and having a look if/when it goes.

If you're thinking of chucking it then it might be worth carefully pulling it apart and having a look - you've nothing to lose. If you're really lucky you might find an obviously popped/melted diode that just needs replacing.

...then I await your "how2" guide with instructions and photos ready for when mine goes :)
 
P.S. I wouldn't bother with what that EGR valve cleaning guide says. Once the seal has gone then its days are very numbered, and you're holding back the tide trying to keep it clean.

If it's stopped working (i.e. needed replacing) then IMO it's knackered. You could clean it out and make it work perfectly but it's a complete waste of time as it will only clog again very quickly.

I'm hoping that they've sorted out the design so it lasts much longer before the seal wears out. Mine's done 18k so far, and was spotless in the solenoid when I looked.
 
P.S. I wouldn't bother with what that EGR valve cleaning guide says. Once the seal has gone then its days are very numbered, and you're holding back the tide trying to keep it clean.

If it's stopped working (i.e. needed replacing) then IMO it's knackered. You could clean it out and make it work perfectly but it's a complete waste of time as it will only clog again very quickly.

I'm hoping that they've sorted out the design so it lasts much longer before the seal wears out. Mine's done 18k so far, and was spotless in the solenoid when I looked.

I'm going to make one of Crombel's gaskets to hopefully reduce the amount of rubbish going into the EGR in the first place. If the new EGR is good enough to last 46k miles like the old one then by that time, based on current trends, the whole car will have disintegrated into a heap. With Crombel's reducing plate fitted that'll hopefully make it run more smoothly as the rest of it falls apart. Either way,surely I won't need the refurbed one anyway....

I'll have a look at the alternator some time this week and if there's anything obvious I'll post it up. I'm not really all that technical, though, so there's a good chance that I won't even notice what the problem is even if I'm looking at it :)
 
I used to (back in the days) refurbish alternators, new brushes/slip rings and change any faulty diodes. Easy enough but its all about obtaining decent priced parts and time.

Has anyone tried a 'swirl' EGR gasket in a croma? (is that what you are refering too Brian?)
 
I used to (back in the days) refurbish alternators, new brushes/slip rings and change any faulty diodes. Easy enough but its all about obtaining decent priced parts and time.

Has anyone tried a 'swirl' EGR gasket in a croma? (is that what you are refering too Brian?)

Hi T14086,
Yes it is.

When I was having all of my dpf problems (that were really EGR problems as it turned out in the end thanks entirely to the support of various members here as the dealer was worse than useless) Crombel posted a design with 5 holes in it which is supposed to be enough to cut down on the rubbish entering the EGR but not enough to trigger the insufficient reflow error.

I made a template of one of the gaskets when I was cleaning out the boost sensor (the EGR obstructs the bolt which holds it in place) and I'll give it a bash and post about what happens.

I'm a bit worried about the impact on the turbo though but I'd imagine that if there's enough air going through then it should be OK.
 
I have used the fiat swirl gasket on GP's & stilos but not a croma however works fine when I have used them(y)

p.s. you can wiggle the bolt out halfway from memory then remove it with the sensor, refit in same way.
 
Hi All,
Just thought I'd quickly post to ask whether anyone knows if it's possible to refurb the alternator?

Apart from replacing the voltage regulator, for most alternators, it's not practical to recondition them on a one off basis.

Due to the high current outputs, rectifier diode connections are often spot welded to the stator windings. Soldering them would create too much heat and could damage the diodes.

I used to (back in the days) refurbish alternators, new brushes/slip rings and change any faulty diodes. Easy enough but its all about obtaining decent priced parts and time.

You must be nearly as old as me T. I used to recondition alternators, dynamoes and starter motors in a Rolls Royce garage I worked at.

Growler and a hacksaw blade to test the armature. Lathe to turn down the armature copper segments, then the mica under-cutter. (back in the days)
 
On a Dutch website is a discussion about problems with the alternator of a Croma.
Someone says that the reason that many Croma alternator failures is due to the heat.
There is not enough fresh (cool) air in the engine bay.
Sounds reasonable to me.
 
One of these needed then?...

impreza_bonnet_scoop.jpg


Got a link to the discussion about it? The Croma has a bigger front grille than a lot of other cars.
 
Methinks it's nowt to do with the size of the grille, more like the position of the alternator relative to the engine block. Am I right in thinking that the 1.9 JTD alternator is behind the block?
 
It's OK, I answered the question myself by going on eper. The 1.9 has the alternator behind the block, the 2.4 has it in front of the block. Where it sits on the 1.9 means it has an extra hard life due to a. sitting in a pocket of warm, still air and b. getting the occasional soaking if the car goes through deep water - the splash guard still has gaps...

One thing to bear in mind is that it doesn't matter what size the front grille is if the rest of the engine compartment doesn't have many exit points for the hot air created by the powertrain. Or, for that matter, if the car's forward speed is low.

So - would it be reasonable to assume that alternators on 1.9 JTD engines have an increased likelihood of failure due to where they are installed on the engine?

One point to note - all diesel cars with electrohydraulic steering give the alternator (and battery) a hard time due to having a continuous drain to run the steering pump, and (particularly on the manual gearbox cars) having the ability to keep the car moving using very low engine revs.

HTH.
 
have changed an alternator on a doblo and a multipla, i wouldn't call it a common problem by a long way however as mentioned vauxhall are changing alternators all the time.

Again rear mounted alternators are prefered (many are fitted with air duct) due to potential fires in the event of a front end collision, front mounted models have battery cut off switch.
 
So, in your opinion, would it help 1.9 owners to create / construct / fabricate an air duct to get more cool air to the area?
 
Last edited:
Back
Top