Technical ABS Bleed with multiecuscan

Currently reading:
Technical ABS Bleed with multiecuscan

Joined
Jun 21, 2016
Messages
11
Points
4
Hello ,
i am having problem with my brake pedal. i did a full brake bleeding process but my brake pedal starts to working when aim in the half of the way to the ground. i htink there is an air left in the abs system. Did anyone bleed the brakesystem with the multiecuscan tool?
If so , than please could you give me more info how to do it and what cable do i need for it ?
I thank you so much for the help.
 
Hello,

Why are you bleeding the system?
Did you change/replace anything?

I did bleed the braking system on the Bravo both with MES and without it.
 
I ve put on fully new brake pads and rotors ,
I have changed the rear brake calipers because they were rusty all over and i couldnt push the pistons back. After that i wanted to bleed the air out by pushing the brake pedal but i didnt realized and there was not enough brakefluid and i think i´ve pushed a little bit of air in the system.
I´ve bought a brake bleeder for a compressor and sucked out the brake fluid from all brakes in the order : RR RL FR FL , at the same time i was filling up the brake fluid so no air is going there anymore.
But after ive tested the car on the road , the brake pedal starting to kick from the half of the position. The braking performance is not so good as expecting.

Ive found somewhere on the internet that it is possible to triger the abs to automated bleed so i dont know now if i should buy a diagnostic tool like this and when yes than which one.

I was doing some research and saw model which are supporting auto bleed :

Maxidas DS808 800€
maxicom MK808 450€
autel maxicheck pro 180€

I dont know now if there is a difference between the bleeding process of these tools.
 
Other thing is :
ive downloaded the MES and started in Simulate mode. Ive choosen the car model , abs .. but i dont see there automated bleed function.
Where did you find it ?
 
You should not need to do a brake bleed while activating the abs unit with what you have done.
New brake parts always take time to bed in.
Bleed the brakes again in a few days. Make sure you do not allow master cylinder reservoir to empty. Pay particular attention to rear calipers air car get trapped in them easily.
 
....
I have changed the rear brake calipers

That's what i was looking for.

The rear calipers are hard to bleed if they've been replaced... ask me how i know. :)

1. don't buy anything yet.
2.In MES you don't actually see an automated bleeding procedure.. it's just something to run the pump while performing regular bleeding...helps moving small bubbles of air.
3. If you're in/near Bratislava i could help you out with MES (i'm living in Bratislava now).
4.in order to encourage the air in the rear calipers to move to the bleeders you need to take them off the sliding pins, off the disk, and move them around while still connected to the brake hose. Air is trapped around the screw inside the caliper; moving it around.. and maybe some gentle taps with a hammer will encourage the air to move
 
That's what i was looking for.

The rear calipers are hard to bleed if they've been replaced... ask me how i know. :)

Thank you very much for your help but unfortunately iam living so far from Bratislava (Germany) so i cant come hhhh. But really thank you.
I will try to move the callipers like you said
 
Thank you very much for your help but unfortunately iam living so far from Bratislava (Germany) so i cant come hhhh. But really thank you.
I will try to move the callipers like you said

I'm 100% certain you have air trapped inside the calipers.

I replaced mine last year .. after hours of bleeding... the brakes were still soft... and almost dangerous....
I lived like that for about 1 week thinking they will self bleed .. or maybe the pads weren't bedded in.... they didn't get better.

Eventually i tried bleeding them again... a few small bubbles of air did come out... but not enough...
Then i removed them from the disc and turned them around.. and air could float to the surface twords the bleeder.... when i bleed them now A BIG AMOUNT OF AIR came out.


Be careful not to push the pedal when the calipers are off the disc... or if you want to do it , then use a spacer inside the caliper (like a piece of wood)... so the piston doesn't pop out
 
I'm 100% certain you have air trapped inside the calipers.

I replaced mine last year .. after hours of bleeding... the brakes were still soft... and almost dangerous....
I lived like that for about 1 week thinking they will self bleed .. or maybe the pads weren't bedded in.... they didn't get better.

Eventually i tried bleeding them again... a few small bubbles of air did come out... but not enough...
Then i removed them from the disc and turned them around.. and air could float to the surface twords the bleeder.... when i bleed them now A BIG AMOUNT OF AIR came out.


Be careful not to push the pedal when the calipers are off the disc... or if you want to do it , then use a spacer inside the caliper (like a piece of wood)... so the piston doesn't pop out

Hi aurick86!

I've replaced the front calipers on my GP, rear discs/pads and new fluid (ferodo dot 5.1)

Now the pedal is very light at the beginning and I don't have the sudden bite point anymore. It seems progressive. It stops very hard if I keep pushing the pedal (~half pressed) but I lost the bite point and I don't like it.

I think there may be air trapped inside the calipers.
How should I turn the caliper?

Also, since you said you used MES function to run the pump, how many times do you have to run it for each caliper? What's the duration?
 
The front calipers don't suffer from the same problem as the back ones.
Just keep bleeding them.

The abs pump thing... is just to get small air bubbles moving... do it 2-3 times... the pump procedure starts and lasts about 5-10sec.
Would be great if you can push some fluid through it right as the pump is running.

Make sure the calipers sliding pins are clean, lubed and freely moving.
 
Back
Top