Technical 1.9 JTD 8 valve 105 crankshaft pulley bolt thread direction

[Retro Pedro]

As title, can anybody confirm if the crankshaft bottom pulley bolt is left hand or right hand threaded.
As you can probably guess, I'm having a right bitch getting mine undone - I need to address the leaking crankshaft oil seal.
I'm convinced it must be a right hand thread because the engine direction is clock wise and if the impact socket on a breaker bar with engine crank had been successful, the pulley bolt would have had to undo anti clockwise (right hand thread for doing up).
I've made up a locking tool for the flywheel which - touch wood - seems to be holding. I've purchased a 19mm 3/4'' drive impact socket so that I can bring my 3/4'' drive breaker bar/T bar and racket but it's not even touching it. Even gingerly put a short scaffold poll on the T bar and still it's not budging. I've taken the top engine mount off and bodged/bolted a substantial puller tool in place to the engine mount so that it holds alot more rigged. I'm going to make up a 10mm plate and bolt in so it's totally solid with no flexing when trying to undo the bolt. I've even tried tapping the T bar with a lump hammer to see if that will jolt it loose.
I have got an impact driver (the sort you hit with a hammer face on) but a bit loughed to use it because of fear of the crankshaft taking the impact and I don't really want to risk damaging bearings, further seals and liners etc.
Have thought about hiring a 610Nm cordless impact driver but the cheapest I can find is £30 a day. Another thought is perhaps trying to find a mobile tyre fitter with a powerful air driven impact driver and see if they will have a go for beer tokens.
After three full Saturdays of trying to get this bolt undone I'm beginning to come to the end of my tether with it but giving up is not an option. The auxilliary belt is all removed along with the timing belt covers so I really want to do this myself rather than putting it back together and taking it to a garage. Hence me having a horror thought that maybe I've been trying to tighten it up further rather than undo. Don't think so, but the thought as crossed my mind.

 

[Davren]

As with most crankshaft pulley bolts, the JTD one is left hand thread.

Diagram below is from the Doblo workshop manual.
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[Retro Pedro]

Thanks Davren. Seems I have been pulling the wrong way
So it looks like to UNDO it as got to turn clock wise and to do up anti-clockwise as.
Got to admit, my logic was thinking that the bolt thread direction would have to be the opposite to the way that the engine turned the pulley because I thought it would have to turn against the locking direction. Shows how my logic was illogical
In some respects I've had a lucky let off, because in my frustration, I was going to hook onto my off roader winch for pulling power. With 12,000lb pulling power something would have snapped.

 

[Retro Pedro]

Came undone a treat - with the flywheel locked up, I put the 3/4'' drive 19mm impact socket on T bar, put a short scaffold pole over T bar for good measures - so that it just protruded out of the front of the car - and stood on it. One crack and it was off.
Pushed on with the timing belt change and made on small mistake regarding the water pump change. I aligned the timing marks and slackened off the tensioner to remove the old belt, then when I went to undo the water pump, there's a small 10mm bolt that was obstruced by the cam shaft sprocket cog. That mean't moving the cam shaft sprocket cog out of alignment but not the end of the world. Undone the 2 larger internal hex bolts and water pump was in a position to pull out. A tight squeeze but it does come off which is NOT really the way to go about it. In my opinion to correct thing to do is lock the cam sprocket and undo the bolt to allow more room to remove the water pump. I took the sprocket off completely in the end, because I tried to force the new pump in. After putting the cam sprocket cog back on I noticed a slight coolant leak from the water pump area. Decided to take the water pump back off to investiagate. I had damaged the rubber seal trying the force the new pump in. Luckily I had a spare brand new rubber seal and was able to repair the damage. Put a bead of sealant on for good measures and inserted the new pump properly (with the cam sprocket out of the way). It's a insert and twist action plus it's alot easier to get at the hex bolts with the sprocket out of the way. Reassembled and topped up coolant and touch wood, seems to be holding