I have replaced sump pans in my life...not many, just few, never had problems, but this 1.3 engine is challenging. I have two of them, both both "wet", removed sump, cleaned, spent a lot of time to make it properly like years ago, sealed back, all perfect for 8-10mths and then is starting leaking slowly until huge leaks around. Other cars I done once and forgot about the problem, but this one not. All articles says that 1.3 has sump prone to damage. I marked in red main leak, dripping every 1-2secs when engine is running, lost 1L within 100miles. So, how to improve factory things, any ideas?
Technical 1.3 Diesel oil leak - how to make it right?
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Technical 1.3 Diesel oil leak - how to make it right?
Assuming it wasn't replaced with a new sump, what I always do is run a straight edge over the mating surface as often the sump gets distorted around the bolt holes, so I would put it across a vice and hammer it flat, so the surface was even all along and then make sure not to over tighten and distort.
Same as we had to do in the old days on rocker covers.
Many now have stepped bolts to prevent over tightening and distortion.
Apart from that a good quality RTV gasket cement.
Not in your case but many seem to rot through the crappy metal, we never had to replace sumps in the past, maybe all the oil leaks stopped the rust.
Same as we had to do in the old days on rocker covers.
Many now have stepped bolts to prevent over tightening and distortion.
Apart from that a good quality RTV gasket cement.
Not in your case but many seem to rot through the crappy metal, we never had to replace sumps in the past, maybe all the oil leaks stopped the rust.
Thank you bugsymike.
I done two sumps years ago in old Vauxhall Astra F and G. Done and forgot about it.
Now I have 2x 1.3 multijet, they were leaking when bought. Sorted but 8-10mths after badly leaking again.
I used Elring RTV silicone. Done same way like years ago, paid attention to cleaning etc.
Just now spent few hours reading PDF notes of Elring and Reinzosil (years ago I used Reinzosil).
It seems ingredients totally changed over the years. Eco terrorists job? I don't know but PDFs shows different ingredients rather years ago.
I'll do as you said, I'll check if straight and use hammer, then Reinzosil this time rather than Elring.
I have brand new sump in my garage, but I'll still use the old one, I need to know where mistake happened. If I done/ I do anything wrong or Elring RTV was not so good.
This is what Reinzosil says regarding competitors:
Elring claiming up to 2mm gaps while Reinzosil from 0.15mm gaps, two different ways of advertising.
But as well what I found interested is:
Elring:
Product tensile strength:
steel: 0.90 N/mm2
aluminum: 2.00 N/mm2
My sump is steel, Reinzosil has no data regarding it, but I'll try it now like years ago as had no problems back then.
I done two sumps years ago in old Vauxhall Astra F and G. Done and forgot about it.
Now I have 2x 1.3 multijet, they were leaking when bought. Sorted but 8-10mths after badly leaking again.
I used Elring RTV silicone. Done same way like years ago, paid attention to cleaning etc.
Just now spent few hours reading PDF notes of Elring and Reinzosil (years ago I used Reinzosil).
It seems ingredients totally changed over the years. Eco terrorists job? I don't know but PDFs shows different ingredients rather years ago.
I'll do as you said, I'll check if straight and use hammer, then Reinzosil this time rather than Elring.
I have brand new sump in my garage, but I'll still use the old one, I need to know where mistake happened. If I done/ I do anything wrong or Elring RTV was not so good.
This is what Reinzosil says regarding competitors:
Code:
Typical RTV sealants for gaps up to 0.15 mm don’t hold up in high-heat environments, and they
can break down quickly if exposed to internal combustion fuels, diesel fuels, and other liquids.
Victor Reinz® Reinzosil® is thermally stable from -55°F/-48°C to 480°F/250°C—and unlike
the competition, it will not shrink or lose weight in high-heat environments.
Easy to apply and fast curing, Reinzosil is a dependably durable sealant that’s suitable for
uneven and rough surfaces. It boasts superior resistance under load, even at high temperatures.Elring claiming up to 2mm gaps while Reinzosil from 0.15mm gaps, two different ways of advertising.
But as well what I found interested is:
Elring:
Product tensile strength:
steel: 0.90 N/mm2
aluminum: 2.00 N/mm2
My sump is steel, Reinzosil has no data regarding it, but I'll try it now like years ago as had no problems back then.
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You have certainly done "due diligence" re the sealants.
Any idea what Fiat used originally?
Is it anything to do with high or low modulus sealants?
I know when removing the sumps on some cars even with all the bolts out they had to be almost hammered apart using wedges.
Is it any thing to do with the "part curing time" before assembly?
.Any idea what Fiat used originally?
Is it anything to do with high or low modulus sealants?
I know when removing the sumps on some cars even with all the bolts out they had to be almost hammered apart using wedges.
Is it any thing to do with the "part curing time" before assembly?
