Technical rotting axels

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Technical rotting axels

leroya500

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Hi guys

Do you lot reckon the new panda will suffer with rotting back axels like the previous generation?

Would be it wise to stone chip now for a few years extra protection?
 
Hi guys

Do you lot reckon the new panda will suffer with rotting back axels like the previous generation?

Would be it wise to stone chip now for a few years extra protection?

Yes, and yes.

The sooner it's done, the more effective it will be. Trying to recover this once the rust has taken hold is much more challenging.

IIRC back in the day, Ziebart would only warranty their treatment if it was applied within 3 months of first registration.

Today, I'd be looking at one of the Dinitrol products.

There are likely a few other areas of the car which could benefit from a little extra protection. Can any of you Mk4 owners advise whether Fiat are still fitting unpainted rear drums?
 
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Since the biggest issue is moisture building up in the cv joint boots (from a lack of grease) the corrosion occurs in a place that can't be protected with stone chip.

That being said, I don't know the situation in the UK but at least here, they're (previous generation) about 50€ each which isn't too bad.
 
Since the biggest issue is moisture building up in the cv joint boots (from a lack of grease) the corrosion occurs in a place that can't be protected with stone chip.

That being said, I don't know the situation in the UK but at least here, they're (previous generation) about 50€ each which isn't too bad.

We're talking here about corrosion on the rear subframe itself - perhaps not something to be concerned about in your climate, but in regions where the roads are regularly salted in winter, it's proving to be an issue on Pandas >8yrs old. We're seeing cases where the cups holding the rear springs break away completely.

Replacement costs in the region of €1000-€1500, which could easily be more than the car is worth.

You can read about it in this thread (and there's a good picture of the resulting damage).
 
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although not a complete solution by any means, routinely checking the various drain holes beneath the springs are free will help here. Often a small stone blocks them, then mud (which of course 'holds' moisture and salt against the steel) builds up. Also, a good rinse with a hose (but not a pressure washer which will remove protection) regularly through and after the winter to remove salt will be of benefit.
 
Checked mine and good job I have!

The unit is covered in a plastic like underseal which water has got underneath and started to rust it and crack the underseal off in places, needless to say next warm spell it's being sorted
 
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