Technical Engine / Gearbox mounts

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Technical Engine / Gearbox mounts

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Hi everyone,

I need some new engine mounts for the white panda which of course is a mk1 so before I go out and buy some...

Does anyone know if mk1's had different mountings? I mean the bits you replace at least. It is the lower one in particular I need, that bolts just behind the suspension arm. When I go in reverse there is a loud banging and juddering as the engine rocks violently. Need to replace it soon before it causes any damage!! :eek: I would have to say there is unusual play in the engine and when you rev it the gear lever moves.

Any help appreciated as eper is about as useful as a flammable fire extinguisher for my mk1!

Cheers!
Si
 
It's only usually the bottom one that goes as it gets much more stress.
The Sikaflex repair to my bottom mount on the CLX last year has lasted 12months but is now about done (still not as bad as the one on the 1000s though)
It will be interesting to see whether it's the repair that's gone or the rest of the rubber that's parted company with the steel...
It was make do and mend until a new one arrived. Still got the new one, but while the repair held...
 
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It's only usually the bottom one that goes as it gets much more stress.
The Sikaflex repair to my bottom mount on the CLX last year has lasted 12months but is now about done (still not as bad as the one on the 1000s though)
It will be interesting to see whether it's the repair that's gone or the rest of the rubber that's parted company with the steel...
It was make do and mend until a new one arrived. Still got the new one, but while the repair held...

Ok, time to get back on the case of the shot mount! Does anyone know if the 2wd bottom gearbox mount is different from the 4wd one? Tried to get onto eper but its busy!! boooo!

Thanks guys,
Si
 
Just wondering if you got this sorted Si?
Changed mine today - don't know it it's a similar job on the Mk1, but if the bolts either side of the bigger nut on the bracket are removed it will move just enough to allow the mounting enough space to fit through rather than taking the arm off. I did try a big bar but just couldn't get enough leverage to create enough space to get the new one in - but I got the old one out like this.
I doubt whether a Sikaflex repair would work on this one as it's the central steel tube that's come adrift - on the CLX it had gone around the outside and allowed more surface area grip for a repair. If it's like the Mk2 only a 13mm ring will fit through the hole at the front to get the bolt - but mine self gripped after starting it with on finger - which just gets in there!
cheers
mick
 
Just wondering if you got this sorted Si?
Changed mine today - don't know it it's a similar job on the Mk1, but if the bolts either side of the bigger nut on the bracket are removed it will move just enough to allow the mounting enough space to fit through rather than taking the arm off. I did try a big bar but just couldn't get enough leverage to create enough space to get the new one in - but I got the old one out like this.
I doubt whether a Sikaflex repair would work on this one as it's the central steel tube that's come adrift - on the CLX it had gone around the outside and allowed more surface area grip for a repair. If it's like the Mk2 only a 13mm ring will fit through the hole at the front to get the bolt - but mine self gripped after starting it with on finger - which just gets in there!
cheers
mick

Hi, I am afraid I have been a bit lasy/busy. Its on the list of things to do, and is definately getting urgent!! Not sure to be honest if i am fitting it correctly either. Is the central bolt (the one I needed to angle grind a ring spanner to get throught the hole to get to the other end of!!) meant to be tight or slack to allow movement? It has a kind of hook mount that goes round the bolt, is this just so that it is possible to remove the bracket more easily?

Thanks for your thoughts Mick. I will let you know if I make any progress!

Si
 
It probably feels loose when mount is shot. I've realised they wear in 2 ways - either round the outside (which is what happened on the CLX and easier to repair with a poly adhesive) or the steel tube in the centre parts company with the rubber (as did the one on the 1000s - less surface area = less grip for a repair I would think, hence I put the new one on)
The centre bolt will be tight on assembly. Though mine was self-tightening and I only needed a finger in the hole to start it off. But it needed a ring spanner to undo it (didn't have to grind it - maybe the hole was made bigger on mk2's?)
(y)
 
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