im Axle Specialists

Technical Changing Front Brake Disc?

Currently reading:
Technical Changing Front Brake Disc?

R

Rennie

New member
Joined
Jan 15, 2007
Messages
10
Points
5
Location
Torfaen, South Wales
Guys can you help? I am about to set about changing the front disc brakes on my Marea 1.8 16v ELX Weekend (vented), is there anything I should know in advance (i.e. tricky parts to the job etc...)

Also if anyone by chance has already got a procedure for swaping marea discs, if you could post it I would be ever indebtted to you.

Cheers
 
https://www.fiatforum.com/tipo-guides/

Where it mentions the 13+15mm bolts... read as 7mm hex.

I'll get a guide put together soon... as soon as I find a set of big calipers for the Bravo.

In the meantime.. tricky parts:

  • Removing that spring on the front.. Use pliers, or put a cloth over it otherwise it has the potential to do some injury as it springs off.
  • Removing the inner pad from the caliper - it's held in by a tight fitting spring (you'll see what I mean on the replacement pads).
  • If you're changing the discs too... those 12mm locating bolts holding the disc to the hub can be torture. Use a quality long reach 6 sided socket. 12 sided tools will round them. If it's already damaged, clamp a set of molegrips or a small vice (don't laugh - its been done before) onto the bolt.
  • Also if you're removing the disc, getting the 19mm bolts that hold the caliper holder lined up through the heat shield can be a bit tricky..
  • Lastly... that spring again. It's torture to get into the holes and lined up. Trial and error and a big set of pliers will see you right.
Everything else is pretty straight forward.
 
Last edited:
The locating bolts that hold the disc to the hub and have the locating pins for the wheel on them can be a bit sticky. Last time I got mine out with Stiltsons on the pins. They survived and were re-uable, please don't tell anyonme about this shameless act though.
One tip, the disc kit will tell you to spend 5 minutes cleaning up the mating surface on the hub, follow this good advice.
 
Just a minor point but you may want to get a new set of bolts next time as i think that Fiat suggest that they are replaced everytime you undo them. I have never done mine though!
 
Thanks all, :worship: it was a smooth operation that only lasted 2 hrs (y) the instructions you gave were spot on. Only problem i encountered was that my fox alloys had seized to the disks, so with a little encouragement and a quick stoke with a blow torch the wheels dutifully fell off (damaging said alloy in the process):eek: never mind it had been curbed already by the Misses.

As a result she passed the MOT, after a steering rack boot change. The garage said that they had found some play in the rack, is there a quick fix for this or are we taking about parting with the hard earned "Lizzie's" (£) for a new rack? Can an old rack be reconditioned? Other thing he warned about was rust on the underside, so I'll be getting the good oldie Wax-oil should do the trick.
 
With alloys always put LOTS of copper grease on all the bolts, and the mating surfaces. Do this every year and carry a big (extending) wheel brace and socket and a lump of wood and a f/o hammer. If you do all of this you stand some chance of swapping out a puncture on the road. Remember stopped on a motorway hard shoulder is one of the most dangerous places in the world.
 
Rennie said:
Thanks all, :worship: it was a smooth operation that only lasted 2 hrs (y) the instructions you gave were spot on. Only problem i encountered was that my fox alloys had seized to the disks, so with a little encouragement and a quick stoke with a blow torch the wheels dutifully fell off (damaging said alloy in the process):eek: never mind it had been curbed already by the Misses.

One tip I was given by a mechanic was to pour boiling water on the wheel and hub if it was stuck, let it soak for 5 mins and then give it a sharp kick - wheel should fall off without damage.

Though not much good if you are stuck on motorway, but like other comments plenty of copper slip should prevent this happening again providing maintenance is kept up to date.
Click to expand...
 
Renegade_8 said:
With alloys always put LOTS of copper grease on all the bolts, and the mating surfaces. Do this every year and carry a big (extending) wheel brace and socket and a lump of wood and a f/o hammer. If you do all of this you stand some chance of swapping out a puncture on the road. Remember stopped on a motorway hard shoulder is one of the most dangerous places in the world.
Click to expand...

you should not copper slip the threads of the wheel nuts as this leads to over torquing of them

if your stuck on the motorway or cant get a hammer to hand

slacken the wheel then turn the wheel back and forth
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Brim987
Technical Part number for 1999 marea front discs?
Replies
1
Views
2K
varesecrazy
V
H
General Timngbelt change 2.0 155hp...
Replies
1
Views
3K
varesecrazy
V
L
Technical brake discs
Replies
3
Views
1K
Peter Pick-Up
P
M
Technical Braking problem
Replies
2
Views
1K
Peter Pick-Up
P
L
Technical replacement of front exhaust catalytic converter
Replies
17
Views
3K
glenn2602
glenn2602
Back
Top