Firstly, the gearbox is an absolute beast! You will struggle to get it back up unless you are very strong and there are 2 of you. The gearbox doesn’t have a nice centre of gravity with a flat portion for the jack, it’s a case of make a cradle for it, or use brute force. I won’t use brute force again, it nearly killed me. 
First things first, get it nice and high, I used a workshop jack and 2 sets of axle stands. Here you can see a spare jack for belt and braces as well as the stands.
You will need a big bar to loosed the hub nuts, I have now broken 2 1/2 bars on them. :-(
Next thing is to take out the airbox for better access, here you can see the bleed valve on top of the gearbox. I changed the brake and clutch fluid before doing anything else so as to not contaminate the new slave cylinder.
Release the lower arms and get the driveshafts out the hub, I was replacing the shockers as well at the same time.
The left hand side just comes out. Remember to drain the oil out first, or it pisses all over your drive. :-(
The right hand side needs the bearing hockey sticks releasing and turning before driving it out with a chisel.
Once the driveshafts are out, undo the rear engine mount and remove it followed by disconnecting the gear linkage cables and the hydraulic clutch line. Plug the end or push the pedal to the floor to stop it leaking.
Then remove a few brackets for cables, the starter motor can just be undone and left to one side still connected, make sure you disconnected battery first before starting.
Here is the gear linkage mounts above, they also need unbolting, after disconnecting and are an arse to get at.
Once that’s done, support the engine with a jack and unbolt the gearbox engine mounting. Lower one first as it incorporates the shifter mechanism. You will have a big pile of parts. You can see the dog bone rear engine mount and the above the gearbox with the shifter mechanism on.
With that done, you can then support the gear box and remove the bell housing bolts, removing it was very easy compared to getting it back on!
I changed the slave cylinder as well, the bearing was a bit rough. I also got the wrong clutch kit, even with the part number off ePER. I took the part number off the original and got a direct replacement, not cheap at £420 for the 3 piece kit.
New clutch fitted and torqued up. I think the bolts must be made of plasticine or my expensive torque wrench is wrong, started stripping 2 of them before the specified torque. Anyway, it’s all tight and secure with new slave cylinder in.
No DMF to worry about on this one, solid flywheel and was in good condition.
The hard bit was getting the box back in, really hard.
Once it’s in, reverse the removal and fill with 2.7l of oil through the breather vent, just use a funnel and it was fine. Then bleed up the new slave cylinder, it works by withdrawing the clip halfway and pulling back on the pipe, once bled, push pipe fully home and insert clip all the way.
Engine mounts back on and all brackets back together, reconnect gear linkages.
Driveshafts back in, new hub nuts and make sure everything is torqued up.
Nice pile of parts changed and congratulate yourself on saving over a £1000 at most garages.
First things first, get it nice and high, I used a workshop jack and 2 sets of axle stands. Here you can see a spare jack for belt and braces as well as the stands.
You will need a big bar to loosed the hub nuts, I have now broken 2 1/2 bars on them. :-(
Next thing is to take out the airbox for better access, here you can see the bleed valve on top of the gearbox. I changed the brake and clutch fluid before doing anything else so as to not contaminate the new slave cylinder.
Release the lower arms and get the driveshafts out the hub, I was replacing the shockers as well at the same time.
The left hand side just comes out. Remember to drain the oil out first, or it pisses all over your drive. :-(
The right hand side needs the bearing hockey sticks releasing and turning before driving it out with a chisel.
Once the driveshafts are out, undo the rear engine mount and remove it followed by disconnecting the gear linkage cables and the hydraulic clutch line. Plug the end or push the pedal to the floor to stop it leaking.
Then remove a few brackets for cables, the starter motor can just be undone and left to one side still connected, make sure you disconnected battery first before starting.
Here is the gear linkage mounts above, they also need unbolting, after disconnecting and are an arse to get at.
Once that’s done, support the engine with a jack and unbolt the gearbox engine mounting. Lower one first as it incorporates the shifter mechanism. You will have a big pile of parts. You can see the dog bone rear engine mount and the above the gearbox with the shifter mechanism on.
With that done, you can then support the gear box and remove the bell housing bolts, removing it was very easy compared to getting it back on!
I changed the slave cylinder as well, the bearing was a bit rough. I also got the wrong clutch kit, even with the part number off ePER. I took the part number off the original and got a direct replacement, not cheap at £420 for the 3 piece kit.
New clutch fitted and torqued up. I think the bolts must be made of plasticine or my expensive torque wrench is wrong, started stripping 2 of them before the specified torque. Anyway, it’s all tight and secure with new slave cylinder in.
No DMF to worry about on this one, solid flywheel and was in good condition.
The hard bit was getting the box back in, really hard.
Once it’s in, reverse the removal and fill with 2.7l of oil through the breather vent, just use a funnel and it was fine. Then bleed up the new slave cylinder, it works by withdrawing the clip halfway and pulling back on the pipe, once bled, push pipe fully home and insert clip all the way.
Engine mounts back on and all brackets back together, reconnect gear linkages.
Driveshafts back in, new hub nuts and make sure everything is torqued up.
Nice pile of parts changed and congratulate yourself on saving over a £1000 at most garages.
