N
nico
Guest
Removal & Replacement of Standard Dials / Installation of Aftermarket Dials
Mark 1 (Analogue)^ / Mk 2 (Digital)*
(WILL BE PUT IN MODDING GUIDE BY WIMMY IN DUE COURSE)
Those of you who have done this yourselves, please feel free to comment if you think I've missed something..
Most of it is straight forward common sense, but for those of you with doubts about your abilities, I've tried to be as thorough as possible with my descriptions (probably only succeeding in confusing you further!?). Obvious advice…read through it thoroughly first, so you know precisely what you may need in addition to the tools stated below. I might suggest, if you have a digital camera, immediately before you commence this task, you take a short drive to get the car warmed up, and with the engine still running, take a pic (or just make a careful note) of where the dials are situated (..explained later).
You may have bought aftermarket dials (Lockwood – or had bespoke ones made, as featured in this guide) or you may be wondering about how feasible it is mere to remove the stock dials and change their colour by using colour bulbs/LED's and or removing the green from the reverse of the dials themselves. I cannot emphasize enough not to pursue the latter course of action! I heartily recommend you stick with clear (white) bulbs (else your needles will change colour from red too) and that you not even attempt to modify the standard dials (trust me on this one!). Save yourself a lot of wasted time and effort, and get yourself some lovely new ones.
Tools Required
3mm Allan Key
Large Flat head Screwdriver
Large/med Philips (cross head) screwdriver
^(Small Philips (cross head) screwdriver)^
Narrow Tip Pliers (not essential)
Torch (not essential)
Digital camera and PC (optional)
Scissors (optional)
Estimated Time : 1-3 hrs (allow for any paint to dry on colour coded features!)
Removal Of Dial Console from Dashboard
First, un-do the three allen key bolts near the top on the underside of the rim of the dash above the display. Next undo the steering wheel lock (lever beneath steering column – pull towards you) and drop steering wheel down (drops only an inch or two). This reveals the next two allen key bolts that need undoing (may be difficult to remove without the aid of some narrow tip pliers to ensure they're not lost if you leave them loose whilst you pull the console fascia out and off).
Pic of Assembly within the Console
There is just one other screw keeping the console secured in the dash. Remove the (2 flat head)^ (3 philips screws)* that keep the fuse cover on (below and left of ignition) to be able to un-do the large Philips screw keeping the dial assembly and protective fascia in place, directly upside down inside the fuse holder compartment (torch might help).
Remove the fascia/console partially by pulling it towards you (the vent behind it on the right is the tricky bit and requires some manoeuvring to free it). It will be prevented from moving any further outward or to the side whilst the leads attached to the dash illumination and headlight controls need to be disconnected. Both of these leads plug directly into the back of the console behind the controls. Feel for them if necessary before pinching the spring bit of the block connector in order to release each one. Remove the console by passing it to the right with the door open.
Pic of tilted assembly and fascia
^ In front of the dials, the clear protective shield is bonded to its surround which is in turn clipped onto the assembly that holds the dials, so this must all come out in one piece. Pull the dial assembly out towards you (as far as it will go) and tilt forward, resting the protective clear screen down on the top of the steering column (if the leads will reach that far). On the top of the back of the assembly you will see wiring leading to two connectors, left and right. To unplug them pinch the front of the block connector to release the block – the black bit is the clip for the left connector, whilst it is more obviously white for the one on the right. It is particularly difficult to try and release these connectors (probably the most tricky bit of all in fact – especially that one on the right!), so I suggest you try and manoeuvre the right side further out after tilting forward, to then use both hands – one to pinch, the other to help pull out the connector. The one on the left was not nearly so tight and it was on a slightly longer lead making it a little easier to get at. Once clear of the dash, the dial surround and protective housing with clear screen will be detached from the main dial assembly by prising off with finger tips - the catches around the edges. ^
^ Pic of complete dial assembly with fascia/protective screen
* The clear protective screen can then be removed separately after undoing a further 4 Allan key bolts clearly visible round the top and bottom edge. The black plastic dial surround (that frames the dials) just lifts straight off and out but I suggest you leave it where it is for now. Pull the dial assembly out towards you (as far as it will go) and tilt forward it forward. On the top of the back of the assembly you will see wiring leading to two connectors, left and right. By simultaneously depressing the small latch flap on the top with the tip of your finger, and flicking back the black retaining clip - the plugs will actually eject themselves. *
The dial assembly may then be removed from the dash and car. Place it on your desk or a level surface that you can work at.
Gauge / Needle Removal (..the tricky bit!)
All the needles DO pull off, with a VERY firm but steady grip. Despite how difficult they may be to get off, you should re-assure yourself that the gauges went in this way! To ensure even pressure and more grip, you could use a two pronged device to eeease them off, but do so with as much control as possible. ^(The only one I didn't manage to remove with my fingers was the mph gauge, for which I used a fork seated beneath the gauge – do not lever it off – pull it squarely – or it will bed or brake!).
^ The analogue will need the two small Philips screws removing from each of the four dials before the dial plates can be removed from the main body of the assembly. You'll note the Rev counter and mph dials have v small pins that stop the needle from dropping below respective levels. Once free and you are able to handle the dials and their mounts, these pins must be pushed out (using perhaps the metal tip of a retractable pencil on the back of the pin) before the transparent mounts can be separated from the dials. ^
* The fuel and temp gauges are the toughest, because they have an additional cam on the opposite side. You might find, as I did the first time, that the cover for the gauges comes off in your fingers. So long as this has been pulled off squarely (not to one side) the two prongs that secure it to the red needle and base, should allow you to secure the cover back in place later, after you complete putting the dials back together, without the need for gluing. Meanwhile, the exposed base of the red needles should now make them easier to get a grip on for their abstraction. If you haven't already, you can now remove the black fascia surround by simply lifting it off the front of the dials. For each dial there is a black retaining clip in the centre. With a bit of light leverage, these will detach. If you actually lift the edge of the dial plates, this will provide sufficient leverage to ping them off (put em somewhere safe with the needles! *
Once separated, the old dials can be removed and put aside.
Colour Coding Gauges
If you're as fussy as I am, you may decide you would like to do this, and it takes longer for the paint to dry than it does to do em. If painting with a brush, if you don't have a steady hand I suggest using a snip of electrical tape on the needle to keep it neat and avoid any excess paint from spreading.
* White dials
^ Silver Dials
Since my dials are white, I actually used tip-ex for the gauges cos I couldn't be arsed to go and buy some model paint. Problem with tip-ex is it does dry rather quickly, so you could end up with an uneven finish. I did manage to even this out with some wet'n'dry, but in the end I noticed some paper (the cover off my printer manual) happened to have the same reflectance as the white dials, so I cut out some little circles and with a dab more tip-ex to glue em on – jobs a goodun! (although I should point out – cutting out those little circles neatly is a lot more difficult than it sounds – the only way I achieved a satisfactory result was by using curved nail scissors from a grooming kit!)
^ Silver Dials - close-up
If you have opted for dials of a different colour, then model paint may be your only option. You can buy tiny pots of Humbrol for about a quid, and a brush for less than that. As for silver (depending on the quality of the dial material) I tried using paint (Humbrol do 2 silver metal cote colours) but I achieved the best results by using one of those fat nib silver paint markers (that you perhaps use at Christmas). These silver dials pictured are top quality and the silver even has a lustre to it. I found the paint marker achieved this sparkle too, whilst the pot paints were far too thin. If you are bothering to colour match analogue gauges, you may as well do the 8 dial face screw heads and the two small needle rests whilst you're at it, to achieve a truly stunning finish!
Evening out The Dial Illumination (Optional)
If no one had suggested this, I might have been quite happy with a bit of an uneven illumination across the dials. What you will find is that the aftermarket/bespoke ones that you may have ordered customised, will not have on the back of them, the matrix of dots to diffuse the focal intensity of the four bulbs (as do the factory dials). Even with the dial illumination control adjusted to max brightness (still not very bright) some parts may seem quite faint (especially as blue dials MAY not illuminate quite as well as the stock green ones).
^ Pic of std diffusion
You can opt to do either or both of two things (assuming you are not content with anything less than perfection). Use an improvised filter of your own on the back to dim the areas that at present would be brighter than others, and/or replace the stock bulbs with LEDs. The LEDs will be brighter (to counter any translucence lost by using different colour dials) AND their use will make the dimmer control on the dash pretty much redundant (but I never had it on anything less than full power all the time anyway).
I suggest you take a picture of your dials first, in-situ - at night or in the recesses of your garage. That way you can remove the dial assembly again and take in inside, and look at the pic you took on your computer as I did, whilst deciding which bits need dulling down (the original dials are not much help). As for the improvised diffuser, you could use proper filter paper will a progressive fade, or I considered using some ‘light smoke' window tint film perhaps layered to create the same effect (if you have any lying around). None of these is necessary however.
I found the simplest (and cheapest) method by far is - get a clear role of sticky back plastic (the stuff you used to used to laminate your school books) and cut out patches roughly to the size of the shaded area evident on the reverse of your standard dials you've just taken out. Then peel and stick this onto the reverse of your new dials, and one bit at a time using a permanent marker, go over the bits that you know show up too brightly, and straight away (before the ink dries) using your finger tip to repeatedly dab the ink until you think you've created the right level of shading. You could use a blue or black marker, or you could alternatively use some transparent blue paper perhaps and just some sticky tape (I did successfully experiment with bits cut from Sainsbury's washing tablet packets on my own dials and I used the blue label wrapper from some kitchen roll for doing DanZ (pictured).
LED Illumination
As I mentioned, you may find that the new dials do not illuminate as brightly as you would like.
There is then the option of replacing the stock bulbs with LED's. The LED's (286T – Analogue 1.8 HLX)^ (509T digital HGT)* will cost you about £10 (for 4) from Ultraleds.co.uk (it seems not all digital displays are 509T's though!). They can be installed from the back of the assembly (they twist-lock into position) at any time after you have unplugged the two connectors and removed the dial assembly from the dash. As you look at the rear of the assembly, all four standard bulbs will remove anti-clockwise (some might be a bit stiff – warranting careful use of some pliers). The new LEDs have a bigger base so are easier to grip, and they are polarised too so must be installed in the correct manner.
286T-std.anal.509T.std.hgt
Despite of having already ordered 286T's for the analogue dials, I can assure you (judge for yourselves from the pictures..) that LED's did not enhance or consistently brighten the display! And believe me – I systematically tried every different configuration including LED and std bulb combo's to reach this conclusion).
^ Stock bulbs (no diffusion)
^ LED's (no diffusion)
Contrary to this, the LED's made an appreciable difference to my digital display (which I felt was just too dark with the new blue dials), but it required the application of much more diffusion to the rear of the dials. Analogues took only one layer of diffusive paper to even small areas out. My digitals took 8 layers in places!!
It is advisable to check that they all work before you put the dash back together anyway, so position the dial assembly back in the dash of the car. ^(Put one screw back in to each of the dials to hold them in place. Leave the surround unclipped for now)^. *(Use the flat plastic dial surround to keep the dials mounted in place)*.
Plug the two wire connectors back into the top of the assembly and rest back in the dash. The dial will not illuminate however, if the dimmer control on the large front of the dash we first removed, is not connected. Hold this to the right of the steering wheel so that you can plug this connector back in and suspend it around the ignition.
Pic of console suspended for bulb check
If one half of the display is not illuminated, one or both of the connectors may not be pushed in far enough (however try at this stage not to insert them fully, else you'll blow a fuse trying to repeatedly disconnect them if they click back in each time).
* If any of the LED's do not light up, remove the assembly again (unplug wires) and replace the LED again after having turned it 180*. And do not discount the possibility that one might not work at all (took me bloody ages to figure out one of mine was at fault). Removal of the actual bulb from its base/holder and re-inserting cured my stubborn one. You may find that the LEDs are a bit loose, so you need carefully to pinch with your finger nail, each of the top prongs of the LED to make the gap fractionally smaller where they clasp the board (don't make this gap is too small or they won't twist into position, and they will break if you bend them back and forth repeatedly. *
^ Pic of contrast
For those of you that are curious, here's a pic of the difference installing blue LED's will make with stock green dials (outer bulbs are LED's whilst centre is std bulb).
Changing Side/Headlight ON illumination from Green to match Dial Colour
^ Headlight On Indication
On my digital boards the remainder of the LED's are soldered in position. On the analogues assembly's the bulbs are all twist fit, so there is the easy option to swop the bulb for the headlight symbol (as well as others if you wish) to a different colour LED. The actual symbol on the cover of the display is coated green, but a blue LED (if you've ordered one) does counter this satisfactorily to achieve a glow to match blue dials.
Dial Install
You can now put your new dial plates into position, *(….well almost! )*
Once satisfied with any diffusion you've applied, put both screws back in each of the analogue dials and insert the two small limiters on the big dials.
* You may have noticed that there are two small bits of white plastic roaming free beneath the clear plastic where the dials sat (you probably heard them jump about and wondered what on earth you'd broke - when you pulled out the temp and fuel gauges!). These were what held the small gauges firmly in place and they act as limiters. Whilst you have the assembly flat on your desk, you need to partially insert the temp and fuel gauges (they need to be inserted into the grommets, but not yet far enough that they go into the control device mounted on the board below. Those grommets need to be positioned just right before you put the new plates on and re-insert the needles. *
* Dial Assembly (From top: Back cover, front cover, circuit board)
* You can get access to the grommets two ways. You can take the back cover off or instead remove the two clear plastic plates which are clipped into position from the front (that the dials actually lay against). I don't not recommend the latter, because they will clip vigorously back into position and disturb the grommets you want to remain perfectly still. Best to unclip the rear cover that holds the electrical board in place, so that the whole front of the assembly can be lifted off the electrical board to expose the loose grommets on the board below. Leave the back cover off (in case you don't manage this first time and have to re-position the grommets agin), and sit the electrical board on something flat and firm (support one edge with a pen or something if need be, to ensure it's stable.*
* Pic of grommet
* The two outer bits of the grommet that project are the limiters for the respective extremes of the gauge (I hope that makes sense!). I suggest you position the grommets so that the needles/gauges when inserted will read full for the fuel dial, and ‘even' for the temperature (mine sits nicely half way – but yours will need positioning at what ever it sits at normally once the engines warmed up). This means you keep the small hole in the grommet aligned with the hole in the board mounted controller beneath, and pivot the gauge to point the needle to its correct respective position.*
* Pic of grommet in-situ
* Then after situating the grommet correctly in position, squarely place the top cover of the dial assembly back into its position very steadily on top of the electrical board (watch directly down though either the temp or fuel gauge hole as you lower to ensure the grommets are not touched! Once accomplished, the back of the assembly can be clipped back on to hold the board in place. If you then replace the black fascia surround to make the assembly easy to handle, the dials will stay in position whilst you carry it around. The two gauges will be loose / hanging out, whilst they are inserted into the grommets but not yet the electrical board. *
Re-connect the two leads and rest the assembly back in the dash where it normally sits (the leads might get in the way but this doesn't matter for now till we know if the needles are correct) Now turn the ignition key and insert the fuel and temp gauges into the dials making sure the needle points to the correct respective position on each dial. If the two outer gauges do not indicate the correct positions (I doubt you will get it right first time) then turn the ignition off, and pull them off and try again. If you've painted the dials, perhaps use a bit of paper over the gauge when you press it in else you might tarnish your handywork!
^ Re-inserting the gauges/needles needs to take place when the dials are showing known readings (when the dials have re-set themselves). I suggest then that you have in advance filled the tank so you know when the ignition is turned on, that the fuel gauge needle should point to F (not necessary if you take a pic or make a careful note of needle positions, as mentioned earlier). I suggest you position temp gauges so that the needle when inserted will show your ‘even' temperature (mine sits nicely half way – but yours will need positioning at what ever it sits at normally once the engines warmed up) so you will need to take the car for a short drive to get it warmed up before then inserting the gauge. ^
Again with ignition turned on, the rev counter the needle will need to point to the idle position (about 6-700 rpm on mine) so you will have to run the car for a minute of two before it drops to this from a fresh start. And finally, the mph (needs to read zero)* (should sit on the limiter)^. This may take a couple of minutes of trial and error, but be patient and you'll get there. One or more of them might go barmy and swing right round, but this proved only to be a temporary glitch whilst I completely removed them again. If at first one of them doesn't move at all, you may have pushed them in just a little too far, so ease it out just a little bit and this restores the movement.
I suggest you go for another drive to test all the gauges return to their idling positions, before you consider putting back on the protective fascias and surrounds. You may even want to leave it a day or two until your fuel gauge has dropped sufficiently to avoid the possibility that it doesn't go down straight away (if you've inserted the needle at the F position, but a little too high perhaps). It wouldn't be a complete disaster if this happened, as the low fuel warning light always comes on in conjunction to warn you when you're running low, but in daylight this could go un-noticed I suppose (and in any case – you want it to be perfect).
All that then leaves is to put your dash back together (and don't forget the steering lock!).
Job done.
Note: You may find that the air-bag warning light comes on and stays on. Besides getting Fiat (or Nige) to rectify this somehow, you could opt to just stick some opaque plastic behind the symbol!
Mark 1 (Analogue)^ / Mk 2 (Digital)*
(WILL BE PUT IN MODDING GUIDE BY WIMMY IN DUE COURSE)
Those of you who have done this yourselves, please feel free to comment if you think I've missed something..
Most of it is straight forward common sense, but for those of you with doubts about your abilities, I've tried to be as thorough as possible with my descriptions (probably only succeeding in confusing you further!?). Obvious advice…read through it thoroughly first, so you know precisely what you may need in addition to the tools stated below. I might suggest, if you have a digital camera, immediately before you commence this task, you take a short drive to get the car warmed up, and with the engine still running, take a pic (or just make a careful note) of where the dials are situated (..explained later).
You may have bought aftermarket dials (Lockwood – or had bespoke ones made, as featured in this guide) or you may be wondering about how feasible it is mere to remove the stock dials and change their colour by using colour bulbs/LED's and or removing the green from the reverse of the dials themselves. I cannot emphasize enough not to pursue the latter course of action! I heartily recommend you stick with clear (white) bulbs (else your needles will change colour from red too) and that you not even attempt to modify the standard dials (trust me on this one!). Save yourself a lot of wasted time and effort, and get yourself some lovely new ones.
Tools Required
3mm Allan Key
Large Flat head Screwdriver
Large/med Philips (cross head) screwdriver
^(Small Philips (cross head) screwdriver)^
Narrow Tip Pliers (not essential)
Torch (not essential)
Digital camera and PC (optional)
Scissors (optional)
Estimated Time : 1-3 hrs (allow for any paint to dry on colour coded features!)
Removal Of Dial Console from Dashboard
First, un-do the three allen key bolts near the top on the underside of the rim of the dash above the display. Next undo the steering wheel lock (lever beneath steering column – pull towards you) and drop steering wheel down (drops only an inch or two). This reveals the next two allen key bolts that need undoing (may be difficult to remove without the aid of some narrow tip pliers to ensure they're not lost if you leave them loose whilst you pull the console fascia out and off).
Pic of Assembly within the Console
There is just one other screw keeping the console secured in the dash. Remove the (2 flat head)^ (3 philips screws)* that keep the fuse cover on (below and left of ignition) to be able to un-do the large Philips screw keeping the dial assembly and protective fascia in place, directly upside down inside the fuse holder compartment (torch might help).
Remove the fascia/console partially by pulling it towards you (the vent behind it on the right is the tricky bit and requires some manoeuvring to free it). It will be prevented from moving any further outward or to the side whilst the leads attached to the dash illumination and headlight controls need to be disconnected. Both of these leads plug directly into the back of the console behind the controls. Feel for them if necessary before pinching the spring bit of the block connector in order to release each one. Remove the console by passing it to the right with the door open.
Pic of tilted assembly and fascia
^ In front of the dials, the clear protective shield is bonded to its surround which is in turn clipped onto the assembly that holds the dials, so this must all come out in one piece. Pull the dial assembly out towards you (as far as it will go) and tilt forward, resting the protective clear screen down on the top of the steering column (if the leads will reach that far). On the top of the back of the assembly you will see wiring leading to two connectors, left and right. To unplug them pinch the front of the block connector to release the block – the black bit is the clip for the left connector, whilst it is more obviously white for the one on the right. It is particularly difficult to try and release these connectors (probably the most tricky bit of all in fact – especially that one on the right!), so I suggest you try and manoeuvre the right side further out after tilting forward, to then use both hands – one to pinch, the other to help pull out the connector. The one on the left was not nearly so tight and it was on a slightly longer lead making it a little easier to get at. Once clear of the dash, the dial surround and protective housing with clear screen will be detached from the main dial assembly by prising off with finger tips - the catches around the edges. ^
^ Pic of complete dial assembly with fascia/protective screen
* The clear protective screen can then be removed separately after undoing a further 4 Allan key bolts clearly visible round the top and bottom edge. The black plastic dial surround (that frames the dials) just lifts straight off and out but I suggest you leave it where it is for now. Pull the dial assembly out towards you (as far as it will go) and tilt forward it forward. On the top of the back of the assembly you will see wiring leading to two connectors, left and right. By simultaneously depressing the small latch flap on the top with the tip of your finger, and flicking back the black retaining clip - the plugs will actually eject themselves. *
The dial assembly may then be removed from the dash and car. Place it on your desk or a level surface that you can work at.
Gauge / Needle Removal (..the tricky bit!)
All the needles DO pull off, with a VERY firm but steady grip. Despite how difficult they may be to get off, you should re-assure yourself that the gauges went in this way! To ensure even pressure and more grip, you could use a two pronged device to eeease them off, but do so with as much control as possible. ^(The only one I didn't manage to remove with my fingers was the mph gauge, for which I used a fork seated beneath the gauge – do not lever it off – pull it squarely – or it will bed or brake!).
^ The analogue will need the two small Philips screws removing from each of the four dials before the dial plates can be removed from the main body of the assembly. You'll note the Rev counter and mph dials have v small pins that stop the needle from dropping below respective levels. Once free and you are able to handle the dials and their mounts, these pins must be pushed out (using perhaps the metal tip of a retractable pencil on the back of the pin) before the transparent mounts can be separated from the dials. ^
* The fuel and temp gauges are the toughest, because they have an additional cam on the opposite side. You might find, as I did the first time, that the cover for the gauges comes off in your fingers. So long as this has been pulled off squarely (not to one side) the two prongs that secure it to the red needle and base, should allow you to secure the cover back in place later, after you complete putting the dials back together, without the need for gluing. Meanwhile, the exposed base of the red needles should now make them easier to get a grip on for their abstraction. If you haven't already, you can now remove the black fascia surround by simply lifting it off the front of the dials. For each dial there is a black retaining clip in the centre. With a bit of light leverage, these will detach. If you actually lift the edge of the dial plates, this will provide sufficient leverage to ping them off (put em somewhere safe with the needles! *
Once separated, the old dials can be removed and put aside.
Colour Coding Gauges
If you're as fussy as I am, you may decide you would like to do this, and it takes longer for the paint to dry than it does to do em. If painting with a brush, if you don't have a steady hand I suggest using a snip of electrical tape on the needle to keep it neat and avoid any excess paint from spreading.
* White dials
^ Silver Dials
Since my dials are white, I actually used tip-ex for the gauges cos I couldn't be arsed to go and buy some model paint. Problem with tip-ex is it does dry rather quickly, so you could end up with an uneven finish. I did manage to even this out with some wet'n'dry, but in the end I noticed some paper (the cover off my printer manual) happened to have the same reflectance as the white dials, so I cut out some little circles and with a dab more tip-ex to glue em on – jobs a goodun! (although I should point out – cutting out those little circles neatly is a lot more difficult than it sounds – the only way I achieved a satisfactory result was by using curved nail scissors from a grooming kit!)
^ Silver Dials - close-up
If you have opted for dials of a different colour, then model paint may be your only option. You can buy tiny pots of Humbrol for about a quid, and a brush for less than that. As for silver (depending on the quality of the dial material) I tried using paint (Humbrol do 2 silver metal cote colours) but I achieved the best results by using one of those fat nib silver paint markers (that you perhaps use at Christmas). These silver dials pictured are top quality and the silver even has a lustre to it. I found the paint marker achieved this sparkle too, whilst the pot paints were far too thin. If you are bothering to colour match analogue gauges, you may as well do the 8 dial face screw heads and the two small needle rests whilst you're at it, to achieve a truly stunning finish!
Evening out The Dial Illumination (Optional)
If no one had suggested this, I might have been quite happy with a bit of an uneven illumination across the dials. What you will find is that the aftermarket/bespoke ones that you may have ordered customised, will not have on the back of them, the matrix of dots to diffuse the focal intensity of the four bulbs (as do the factory dials). Even with the dial illumination control adjusted to max brightness (still not very bright) some parts may seem quite faint (especially as blue dials MAY not illuminate quite as well as the stock green ones).
^ Pic of std diffusion
You can opt to do either or both of two things (assuming you are not content with anything less than perfection). Use an improvised filter of your own on the back to dim the areas that at present would be brighter than others, and/or replace the stock bulbs with LEDs. The LEDs will be brighter (to counter any translucence lost by using different colour dials) AND their use will make the dimmer control on the dash pretty much redundant (but I never had it on anything less than full power all the time anyway).
I suggest you take a picture of your dials first, in-situ - at night or in the recesses of your garage. That way you can remove the dial assembly again and take in inside, and look at the pic you took on your computer as I did, whilst deciding which bits need dulling down (the original dials are not much help). As for the improvised diffuser, you could use proper filter paper will a progressive fade, or I considered using some ‘light smoke' window tint film perhaps layered to create the same effect (if you have any lying around). None of these is necessary however.
I found the simplest (and cheapest) method by far is - get a clear role of sticky back plastic (the stuff you used to used to laminate your school books) and cut out patches roughly to the size of the shaded area evident on the reverse of your standard dials you've just taken out. Then peel and stick this onto the reverse of your new dials, and one bit at a time using a permanent marker, go over the bits that you know show up too brightly, and straight away (before the ink dries) using your finger tip to repeatedly dab the ink until you think you've created the right level of shading. You could use a blue or black marker, or you could alternatively use some transparent blue paper perhaps and just some sticky tape (I did successfully experiment with bits cut from Sainsbury's washing tablet packets on my own dials and I used the blue label wrapper from some kitchen roll for doing DanZ (pictured).
LED Illumination
As I mentioned, you may find that the new dials do not illuminate as brightly as you would like.
There is then the option of replacing the stock bulbs with LED's. The LED's (286T – Analogue 1.8 HLX)^ (509T digital HGT)* will cost you about £10 (for 4) from Ultraleds.co.uk (it seems not all digital displays are 509T's though!). They can be installed from the back of the assembly (they twist-lock into position) at any time after you have unplugged the two connectors and removed the dial assembly from the dash. As you look at the rear of the assembly, all four standard bulbs will remove anti-clockwise (some might be a bit stiff – warranting careful use of some pliers). The new LEDs have a bigger base so are easier to grip, and they are polarised too so must be installed in the correct manner.
286T-std.anal.509T.std.hgt
Despite of having already ordered 286T's for the analogue dials, I can assure you (judge for yourselves from the pictures..) that LED's did not enhance or consistently brighten the display! And believe me – I systematically tried every different configuration including LED and std bulb combo's to reach this conclusion).
^ Stock bulbs (no diffusion)
^ LED's (no diffusion)
Contrary to this, the LED's made an appreciable difference to my digital display (which I felt was just too dark with the new blue dials), but it required the application of much more diffusion to the rear of the dials. Analogues took only one layer of diffusive paper to even small areas out. My digitals took 8 layers in places!!
It is advisable to check that they all work before you put the dash back together anyway, so position the dial assembly back in the dash of the car. ^(Put one screw back in to each of the dials to hold them in place. Leave the surround unclipped for now)^. *(Use the flat plastic dial surround to keep the dials mounted in place)*.
Plug the two wire connectors back into the top of the assembly and rest back in the dash. The dial will not illuminate however, if the dimmer control on the large front of the dash we first removed, is not connected. Hold this to the right of the steering wheel so that you can plug this connector back in and suspend it around the ignition.
Pic of console suspended for bulb check
If one half of the display is not illuminated, one or both of the connectors may not be pushed in far enough (however try at this stage not to insert them fully, else you'll blow a fuse trying to repeatedly disconnect them if they click back in each time).
* If any of the LED's do not light up, remove the assembly again (unplug wires) and replace the LED again after having turned it 180*. And do not discount the possibility that one might not work at all (took me bloody ages to figure out one of mine was at fault). Removal of the actual bulb from its base/holder and re-inserting cured my stubborn one. You may find that the LEDs are a bit loose, so you need carefully to pinch with your finger nail, each of the top prongs of the LED to make the gap fractionally smaller where they clasp the board (don't make this gap is too small or they won't twist into position, and they will break if you bend them back and forth repeatedly. *
^ Pic of contrast
For those of you that are curious, here's a pic of the difference installing blue LED's will make with stock green dials (outer bulbs are LED's whilst centre is std bulb).
Changing Side/Headlight ON illumination from Green to match Dial Colour
^ Headlight On Indication
On my digital boards the remainder of the LED's are soldered in position. On the analogues assembly's the bulbs are all twist fit, so there is the easy option to swop the bulb for the headlight symbol (as well as others if you wish) to a different colour LED. The actual symbol on the cover of the display is coated green, but a blue LED (if you've ordered one) does counter this satisfactorily to achieve a glow to match blue dials.
Dial Install
You can now put your new dial plates into position, *(….well almost! )*
Once satisfied with any diffusion you've applied, put both screws back in each of the analogue dials and insert the two small limiters on the big dials.
* You may have noticed that there are two small bits of white plastic roaming free beneath the clear plastic where the dials sat (you probably heard them jump about and wondered what on earth you'd broke - when you pulled out the temp and fuel gauges!). These were what held the small gauges firmly in place and they act as limiters. Whilst you have the assembly flat on your desk, you need to partially insert the temp and fuel gauges (they need to be inserted into the grommets, but not yet far enough that they go into the control device mounted on the board below. Those grommets need to be positioned just right before you put the new plates on and re-insert the needles. *
* Dial Assembly (From top: Back cover, front cover, circuit board)
* You can get access to the grommets two ways. You can take the back cover off or instead remove the two clear plastic plates which are clipped into position from the front (that the dials actually lay against). I don't not recommend the latter, because they will clip vigorously back into position and disturb the grommets you want to remain perfectly still. Best to unclip the rear cover that holds the electrical board in place, so that the whole front of the assembly can be lifted off the electrical board to expose the loose grommets on the board below. Leave the back cover off (in case you don't manage this first time and have to re-position the grommets agin), and sit the electrical board on something flat and firm (support one edge with a pen or something if need be, to ensure it's stable.*
* Pic of grommet
* The two outer bits of the grommet that project are the limiters for the respective extremes of the gauge (I hope that makes sense!). I suggest you position the grommets so that the needles/gauges when inserted will read full for the fuel dial, and ‘even' for the temperature (mine sits nicely half way – but yours will need positioning at what ever it sits at normally once the engines warmed up). This means you keep the small hole in the grommet aligned with the hole in the board mounted controller beneath, and pivot the gauge to point the needle to its correct respective position.*
* Pic of grommet in-situ
* Then after situating the grommet correctly in position, squarely place the top cover of the dial assembly back into its position very steadily on top of the electrical board (watch directly down though either the temp or fuel gauge hole as you lower to ensure the grommets are not touched! Once accomplished, the back of the assembly can be clipped back on to hold the board in place. If you then replace the black fascia surround to make the assembly easy to handle, the dials will stay in position whilst you carry it around. The two gauges will be loose / hanging out, whilst they are inserted into the grommets but not yet the electrical board. *
Re-connect the two leads and rest the assembly back in the dash where it normally sits (the leads might get in the way but this doesn't matter for now till we know if the needles are correct) Now turn the ignition key and insert the fuel and temp gauges into the dials making sure the needle points to the correct respective position on each dial. If the two outer gauges do not indicate the correct positions (I doubt you will get it right first time) then turn the ignition off, and pull them off and try again. If you've painted the dials, perhaps use a bit of paper over the gauge when you press it in else you might tarnish your handywork!
^ Re-inserting the gauges/needles needs to take place when the dials are showing known readings (when the dials have re-set themselves). I suggest then that you have in advance filled the tank so you know when the ignition is turned on, that the fuel gauge needle should point to F (not necessary if you take a pic or make a careful note of needle positions, as mentioned earlier). I suggest you position temp gauges so that the needle when inserted will show your ‘even' temperature (mine sits nicely half way – but yours will need positioning at what ever it sits at normally once the engines warmed up) so you will need to take the car for a short drive to get it warmed up before then inserting the gauge. ^
Again with ignition turned on, the rev counter the needle will need to point to the idle position (about 6-700 rpm on mine) so you will have to run the car for a minute of two before it drops to this from a fresh start. And finally, the mph (needs to read zero)* (should sit on the limiter)^. This may take a couple of minutes of trial and error, but be patient and you'll get there. One or more of them might go barmy and swing right round, but this proved only to be a temporary glitch whilst I completely removed them again. If at first one of them doesn't move at all, you may have pushed them in just a little too far, so ease it out just a little bit and this restores the movement.
I suggest you go for another drive to test all the gauges return to their idling positions, before you consider putting back on the protective fascias and surrounds. You may even want to leave it a day or two until your fuel gauge has dropped sufficiently to avoid the possibility that it doesn't go down straight away (if you've inserted the needle at the F position, but a little too high perhaps). It wouldn't be a complete disaster if this happened, as the low fuel warning light always comes on in conjunction to warn you when you're running low, but in daylight this could go un-noticed I suppose (and in any case – you want it to be perfect).
All that then leaves is to put your dash back together (and don't forget the steering lock!).
Job done.
Note: You may find that the air-bag warning light comes on and stays on. Besides getting Fiat (or Nige) to rectify this somehow, you could opt to just stick some opaque plastic behind the symbol!
