Hello Everybody,

I need a good advice/help...
I got my Doblo since 2010, little faults etc, all sorted by myself and my ELM+Multiecuscan (this is why we are here )
...but now I stuck.

Little prelude: Doblo 1.9JTD type 223, 1.5yrs ago bought from ebay a tuning box, (from TDI-Tuning), perfect, in city the fuel consumption dropped from 9l to 6.7l/100km... 1 months ago I removed all the injectors, got new seals, sorted.
Prepared the car for a long England to Hungary trip, same as we did last year without any problem... ~2100km in 5.7l/100km average perfect.
But, backway, just in the middle of Germany limp mode, :bang::bang::bang:grrrrr... I got my laptop and the ELM, connection, body, dashboard.... but no engine module.

I guess, its tried to start a DPF cleaning, but as it never was success ( I did it manually before) and this is why it went to limp mode...

But why I cant see the ECU (I got a U1601 C-Can line error), before I was able to connect

-F16 7.5amp fuse checked, OK
-ECU connectors contact cleaned

And now, my Doblo not rewing upper than ~3200, black smoke, no power, knocking noise over 2000rpm.

Where to start? Check all the can line for connection problem? Maybe I will reach the engine then DPF force regen, but what was that noise? Turbo?

So this is the sad situation...
Any answer and solution appreciated:worship::worship::worship:.

Thanks in advance!

Knocking usually suggests a timing issue or a fueling issue.

If the engine cant see the ECU, it wont start at all..... So perhaps the ECU has suffered water damage or maybe the tuning box has gone faulty.

First, detach the tuning box and see what happens. If it goes well, the tuning box could be the problem.

Check if the TDC (or crank) sensor is in good working order, look for cracks or damaged wiring all the way up around the engine.

Look for damage to intercooler and hoses, check the bottom worm drive clips are all in good order as they are prone to rusting and falling off.

Have the MAF sensor checked out. Sometimes, simply unplugging it will throw a fault code and revert to limp home, but if the engine runs better it is possible the MAF is faulty.

Also, check the injectors wiring plug. They are known to work loose on the metal contacts. You need a pointy sharp tool, like a tiny hole punch, to try and work the connections closed. It is a known fault on these, particularly no3 injector for some reason!!

And check the earth connection to the engine & body from the battery. Sometimes a poor earth will cause all manner of problems with a multiplex wiring system as they are voltage critical.

Thanks the reply Andoo,

The tuning box already disconnected,
After start, on full throttle is staying a little while on 2200rpm then really slowly going up to max 3200rpm, when I quickly take off my feet from the accelerator then I can hear a knocking noise just for a second, but in the meantime no knocking now. Just a lot black smoke
Before I cleaned up (with contact spray) the ECU and the injector`s connectors as I changed the injector seals before. ECU ground cable should be ok, as I cleaned as well. The rest of connections need to be checked.

I will check this weekend the wiring, connectors, crank sensor, pipes, MAF etc...
Wont be too quick, lack of time/kid and wife

ps: If its help to give a better advice or describe the problem, I happy to and can upload video.

Thanks

If it is slow to respond, it really sounds like a pipe has detached from the intercooler or MAF is faulty....

Thanks Andoo,

Today morning I checked all the connections in the engine bay fusebox, the other box (in the middle, just over the engine,see pic), and the driver side fusebox front, I left few more connections on the back, but I didnt had time to clean that side. Cleaned (with carb cleaner) and reconnected the MAF sensor.

Didnt started the engine as I halfway in the EGR cleaning, just tried to connect to the ECU, and still the same.

Only the Body computer and the Dashboard appear, the engine not. I will ask this in the Multiecuscan forum as well.
The funny thing is, nothing changed, same laptop, same ELM adaptor, the above two comp. is working and communicating, so the rest should be fine...

And still have the C-Can line error,anybody knows where the CAN system wiring running in the car? If I try to swap the ECU with same type 223 ECU, should I do anything else? I seen somewhere, have to change the body computer+ECU+barell lock in the same time as they "paired" together, is that right?

I'm willing to open up the existing ECU to check the panel, maybe resoldering...

Any good ideas welcome:worship::worship::worship:

...and forget to write down, the intercooler pipe is ok.

...or just to know where I standing, I will puffing to the local FIAT dealer, and ask them to make a diag, specially try to connect to the ECU only, if they success does it mean my ECU is ok, so my cable/laptop/software etc not working properly. If they fail, ahhh... thats gonna be a costly story.

To see it properly, if the ECU is not working properly, like now, what option can I have? Help please.

I quess, maybe ECU repair?
Or if I have to change the ECU, what else have to be change (I seen somewhere, ECU, body comp, lock barell+keys, maybe fuel pump)?

Thanks your reply

Any ideas?

Please help,

Thanks your reply

I really cant imagine what could be wrong other than the ECU isn't getting a + signal or it is blown.

If the car runs (badly) it must somehow be speaking to the ECU somehow.

I think a bad wire somewhere. I wonder if disconnecting the battery and checking the connections may help......

See above...
I checked the wires what I described, after all, checked the communication on ODB but same... No ECU... :bang::bang::bang::bang::bang::bang:

Where the CAN bus running physically? Where can I found the connection nodes for that?

Thanks your reply

...Todays update

fixed back everything to start the engine, diagnostic, still no connection to ECU.
Engine start, slow rewing up, aaand lots smoke. Im guess is still in limp mode, but without reaching the ECU... well:bang::bang::bang:

From MUltiecuscan site sbody told me to try a different adaptor, maybe K-Line broken, or the ECU, but if the ECU is defective, wont start the engine isnt?

In the meantime I just bought a e-manual, tomorrow searching thru the cable nodes between ECU and body comp. Maybe I will find something :yum:

Any ideas welcome

Today's update 2.

I nearly forgot, I got a family friend with Fiat Grande Punto 1.9JTD... so letz gooo

Aaaaand its connected to ECU, so, I know now my ELM+laptop+software is OK.
This is the good news...

Bad news...
The engine started with same sickness, no ECU connection, so I will check the cables and connection between OBD and ECU... Gonna be a good fun:bang:

I will update later,
Any ideas welcome

Have you removed the ECU connector plug to check for corrosion or broken connections?

If it starts, it must have some connection to the ECU?!?!?!

There are many positive + and negative - connections to the ECU, so it could be something simple.

However, I think it is a possibility the ECU is damaged from a voltage spike. This can happen if you reverse the battery connections when replacing the battery or from a jump start off another vehicle with a powerful or damaged alternator!!

Well... Back...

Mixed feeling, but much more better now.

Yesterday I sorted the ECU thing. I working in nights, so not easy, but the first thing to share what happened

Did anybody know that, if you have a blown F39 10A fuse (on the body comp), which is a radio, and you forget to change, like me, because you have a permanent own installed +12V wire to the radio, you wont be able to communicate with the Engine modul? I put a new one in, and voila
After removed -just for test-, and same result like before...

Now, I seen the ECU, yepp. Went to limp mode, didnt cleaned the DPF... This is the reason, still

...and here is the second issue
I tried to clean but was not successful. Incorrect conditions

The question is, what conditions needed for DPF force regen?

What I roughly know:
EGR closed, cleaned and in working condition (I had a 3.8899 something%),
Minimum % fuel(?)
No other error codes(?)
Min 70C engine temperature
Pre-cat/particulate filter temperature(?)
Is there are any minimum distance what is have to do between two force regen (ex min 100km)(?)


Please help, i feel I just one step away from the solution

Thanks in advance guys:worship::worship:

...todays update.
EGR cleaned, tested with multiecuscan, working, the blanking plates removed temporary to do the DPF force regen (maybeee)

no other error codes than P1206 - Clean or replace particle filter

then tried few times, same results:bang::bang::bang:, see pics below

It isn't always the filter (DPF) it can be down to faulty sensors, which are a LOT cheaper to replace.

Try removing them & cleaning them with carburettor cleaner and re-install and try re-gen....

Hello Guys,

I think I went thru all the DPF cleaning posts,

- I cleaned EGR (tested, working)
- cleaned differential pressure sensor (what is in the DPF if Im right), not tested
- MAF, MAP cleaned as well (MAP was covered in horrible jummy-sticky black stuff)
Then blanked the EGR prevent from doing more mess

Yesterday night tried the DPF force regen 4 times, failed....

Do you know what I missed?

Please HELP! I ran out from ideas, which sensor is left to check/clean etc..
Or which is important for a DPF regen...
Or what exactly conditions needed for the process...

Thanks anyway,

In all of those snapshots, I notice the engine temperature seems low!

I would imagine the thermostat may need looked at or perhaps the temp sensor is out of range and needs replaced.

I have a vague recall that if the engine isn't up to sufficient running temperature, then the regen wont take place.

....hmmm... the bloody mscan description said, engine should be over 70C,
last year when I manually started, was over 70C just a little bit...
When I monitoring, the engine temp normally goes up from ex 20C to xxC.

What about the rest of values?

Just theory,
If I take off the DPF then blast it with jetwash (120bar), so theoretically will be clean, the limp mode can go away?

Any ideas welcome,

It isn't necessarily that the DPF "is" blocked, just that the car is being "told" that!

I think the temperature should be between 88/92 deg C, but I may be wrong. It's just that as far as I recall, thermostats normally open at those sort of temperatures. So my thinking is the engine should be at those temperatures in order to be "fully warmed"

Anyway, you say you haven't checked the DPF sensors (there should be two) so how can you be sure that isn't your problem?

Sorry to be a pain, but these are the two things nipping at my ass.....