craigb244 said:

its a vr sensor. there is no feed it outputs ac which raise and fall in time with the passing teeth

Click to expand...

Ain't the cento's using hall-sensors?

Looking for cam- and crank-sensors via parts sites and when searching the bosch and marelli productnumbers, I found they are both Hall

But I've got a seicento mpi

maybe thats different?

Has anyone got an MSQ for a fiat punto 75 stock engine ?!

thanks,
neil

bit of a thread revival here

ive read through most of this (well page 47ish) and im getting pretty scared

my plans are this

Engine is a pretty stock 1.4 16v with cda and supersprint 4-2-1 and an lc2 wb

from a few emails to and from phil at ExtraEFI ive come to the conclusion that i want..

the ms2 v3.0
1m loom
usb upgrade to save the hassle of the serial
running 4 cylinder wasted spark
on a 60-2 wheel
switchable maps
launch control (gotta have some toys )

as im not building the ms from what ive read i have few questions

is the tacho/revcounter another item that will need to be soldered on or is this now a standard thing??

also can i take iat from the map sensor or do i need to purchase a separate iat sensor and fit it to the inlet some way?

how much work really is involved.. im 99% sure i want to get this but am quite worried itll be more then i can chew as such...my plan is to use a similar method as the 'dummy ecu' as i would like to keep the loom as original as possible in-case i ever wanted to revert back to the standard ecu.. however if this is going to make life more difficult then im happy to butcher my spare loom...

i plan on having it mapped by a local rr so just a nice base map to get me there will be needed

also im reading the info on the screened wiring.. from what i can work out this is simply a +ve and a -ve with an earth running through the sheilding that needs to go to the ms2 and left open at the cps end?? is this pretty simple??

basically im looking to place an order at the end of the month.. ive read quite a bit on this thread and also on other sites i just want to make sure im ordering everything i need in one go

if someone could verify what ive listed above and confirm or add to what i need i would greatly appreciate it..

cheers in advance

lee

I'm driving with an MS'd sei, so here are a couple of answers from my experience to hopefully help you

Lecook said:

...ive read through most of this (well page 47ish) and im getting pretty scared

Click to expand...

Don't get scared, get motivated
Try to know as much as possible, and be prepared to make and have tinker-time available.
Getting a good map is going to take the most time eventually due to different weather conditions.

Lecook said:

...my plan is to use a similar method as the 'dummy ecu' as i would like to keep the loom as original as possible in-case i ever wanted to revert back to the standard ecu.. however if this is going to make life more difficult then im happy to butcher my spare loom...

Click to expand...

I've tried this the hard way and end up having to trace wires directly anyway. At the moment it's partly tapped from pins at the end connector of the loom and partly directly wired. (Not to be proud of at the moment, but it works ).
I'm going to strip out unnecessary wiring in the summer and make a nice new permanent loom for my MS since I'm planning to update to V3 for cam support and a full-sequential setup at the same time.
Anyway, to make a long story short, although the schematics of the sei show there should be no problem tapping from the loom, in reality it didn't work for me. So my advise is leave the loom alone buy some nice connectors (or cut and solder where necessary) and make your own!
Write down any changes so you can go back by reverting them.

If you need some dwell specs for the original coils I can look them up for you in my config .
These are hard to find and I settled on specs that worked for me ever since without overheating.

Lastly, it's handy to at least fuse the main power so if something goes wrong your MS won't go up in fumes.:yum:

Good Luck

Totally forgot: I can't help you on the MS specific parts questions, since I unfortunately happen to have some sort of re-engineered version of the MS, another reason for me to update to the real one this summer and support the real community behind it.

cheers

I know this thread is way old... I came here after reading up on the conversation of putting an MS into a Seicento, since I'm looking into buying one for a new project, but this sparked interest on a different subject, so please bear with me on this...

I noticed you guys posted an ignition map from the Punto 75, and it starts on low 10s and ends on high 30s at high RPM. It so happens that I have the Sei ignition map right here:



It looks pretty similar to the Punto 75 map. This is on a IAW59F powered Sei, by the way. One of the things I found out to be pretty strange is that this map, used on the Sei 1.1 MPI, is exactly the same map used in the Punto 60 MK2, with the 1.2 MPI engine!

Now, here's the thing. My swapped Punto has an 80 16V engine in with quite a few modifications regarding management, and I'm running it with the IAW59F ecu mapped to it. After a lot of trial and error, I found myself running from mid 10s to high 40s on ignition advance, else the car would backfire like crazy.

Does anybody happen to have an ignition map off a Punto 85, or Punto 80, just to compare results?

Actually, doesn't seem to be much of a resemblance on low loads...

I might post the map later, if I remember. But the point I would be guessing is that that the 16V engines have to ignition point (this is due to phonic wheel alignment and such things) shifted by 18 degrees. Hence, when running 8V ecu / map of any sort you need to account for this by raising the ignition by this 18 degress. The factory 16V ECU (IAW 18FD) has this shift in the map, so wihtout taking this "correction" into account the ignition values seem indeed very high. The real physical ones (the actual degrees before TDC) are 18 degrees lower all over.

Not sure if I explained myself properly

You did! Thank you VERY much!

I had come to the conclusion before that the trigger point for the 16V should be shifted somehow, related to the 8V, from testing it at idle and the fact that the engine is backfiring. Because the 80 engine opens up the intake at 0º BTDC and has zero overlap, it will not allow you to run any retard at all, else it backfires on the opposite two cylinders for every cycle. Through testing I had guessed that the shift in trigger point would be around 10 degrees, and not 18, so that makes a lot of sense.. I'm still running very conservative. The engine seems to idle pretty good at around 16º however (in 8V measurement, so that would be -2º advance on the 16V) so I will have to fiddle around with it some more now.

My gas mileage is awful even though I have power now, which points to too few advance

Thank you! That enlightened me

If someone could still grab an ignition map from a 16V that would be awesome though!

I'm thinking about turbocharging my cinq 1.1 8V MPI and thought Megasquirt would be the ideal option for this,
I don't know much about magasquirt yet and do want tolearn more about it,
i'm currently running the original 1.18v with a seicento 1.1 mpi intake manifold,
for the turbokit I wanted to use a TD-04 turbo with thisintake(if it will hold) and also this engine,
all the hardware shouldn't be a problem for me, but what kind of ecu to use is.. (the novitec ecu is a bit to expensive and i like a self built kit a lot more)

anybody who has some experience with Megasquirt on a turbo cinq?

Thnx
Jeffrey

craigb244 is probably someone you want to talk to about this.

Nearly finish building my MS system, just want to ask a quick question about installing the second BIP373.
I havent installed the PWM flyback circuit (as described in step 69 of build guide) as i didnt think this was necessary. Therefore i was going to mount the second BIP373 on the heatsink where Q9 would normally go.
I was following this guide I found which I've uploaded the picture below to FiatForum.



I'm going to run the two 330r's as shown but not via the proto area, going to run a piece of cable with the resistors heatshrinked in them. As it states in the DiyAutoTune instructions.
The middle leg (output signal) of the second BIP, im going to run underneath the MAP sensor to PIN 4,5 or 6 of the DB37 as Asteris states in this post that they are unused and not grounded.
No this is the bit i dont understand; The instructions above state to remove R43 and solder the third leg of the second BIP in it's place.
Should this be removed? Can I not just just jumper it to the top of R43 and not remove it? Or shall i just jumper to the same ground on the DB37 that the Original BIP (Q16) uses?

Thanks

The one I have on the Punto uses the proto area. The instructions tell you to remove R43 I believe it's only because it loses it's purpose. I think it's used for metering of something when you only have a BIP373 installed.

On my Punto I did not remove R43 and actually soldered Pin 3 of the second BIP373 BEFORE R43, so both BIP373 get the same characteristics. I suppose it's nothing bad if you remove R43 altogether, but it works regardless.

When wiring the second ignition output to one of the pins, especially if using one of SPR0 through SPR3 as output, bridge/reiforce the circuit from SPRx to the parallel port, or else you will burn the tracks on the PCB.

Bit more searching and I might have answered my own question
This post hopefully is right?
Okay so R43 is only really needed if using a scope to set the dwell. I can remove and jumper R43 and run the second BIP ground there.
With a few added jumper grounds to make sure it can carry the current and not just rely on the PCB traces.

Im going use try and use the IAC stepper, so all of those jumpers are currently used, hence why im trying to wire it this way.