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General 1.1 mpi induction kit

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General 1.1 mpi induction kit

Sonic74205 said:
lol, i guess. what i meant was i wasnt that interested in hardcore tuning. just something to make every day driving better
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Induction kit, high-torque cam & maybe a bigger throttle body if you've got a smaller one, iirc the MPIs come with a 38mm one though. Beyond that you're into head work, forced induction, nitrous, bigger engines or any combination of mentioned items.
 
see what i on't get it yo sag of k&n system when its the best option. you meant to move air to the filter not filter to the air.

i have a k&n on mine with a nice wide cold ar feed, next on the list is to make heat sheild round cone leaing it clear where the cld air feed is
 
xracer said:
see what i on't get it yo sag of k&n system when its the best option. you meant to move air to the filter not filter to the air.

i have a k&n on mine with a nice wide cold ar feed, next on the list is to make heat sheild round cone leaing it clear where the cld air feed is
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k&n isnt the best option as it is sat on the throttle body so isnt getting the most denser air. even if you have loads of air feeds it will still get warm air. the best option im my opinion and mostly every one else is to move the filter to a colder area e.g the front/side of the car and this is proven by the GSR and many other companys
 
Also having the filter sitting on top of the TB doesn't do much for the mid-range. You can feel it on my Cinq with a TB mounted filter it loses a lot of the impact lower down the rpm scale.
 
GoBe said:
Nothing wrong with the K&N filter it's self, it's more it's sucking in air that recently just came through the rad then over the exhaust manifold. This is why on rolling road runs you often won't see a performence impact, as runs are done bonnet up to aid cooling the filter can suck in relitivly cool air.
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Under bonnet can get very hot,i did a rolling road run without a fan, exhaust manifold was glowing and rad fan was nearly constantly on. and even with a GSR + BMC CDA filter performance was poop,made i big difference with the fan on,even tho i have no cold air feed and a standard bumper,all to be changed as of this weekend:devil:
 
I agree with OxO, the filter really needs to be as far away from sources of extreme heat - manifold, radiator as possible. And, as I've said before, the only way to ensure the intake is as cold as possible to is to eliminate ALL underbonnet heat from entering the engine with a 'sealed' system which allows only external air into the throttle body. The intake tubing and filter housing etc.. will all heat up to a certain degree in the bay and inevitably transfer a little of that heat into the charge air temperature, so the colder you can make the air to start with the better.
You can add all the pipes and tubes you want to blow air over and around a filter, but if it's not air tight and insulated from the hot engine bay air, the filter will still draw in some of the hot air.
A lot of studies on this have shown that for every 10 degrees F increase in air induction temp, power can fall off by 2%.
At the end of the day, though, people will always defend whatever system they have on their car to justify them buying it but facts are facts - look at any WRC or touring car and they all use positive pressure sealed ram effect induction systems.
 
In addition to my previous post above, this is a diagram of my induction set up which uses the normally blank near-side bumper grill as a large air intake duct (which was made by me out of aluminium but you can buy plastic ones from places like Demon Tweeks, Larkspeed etc..).
Out of all the custom induction systems I have made on previous cars, this one works by far the best and the faster the car goes, the better it works (y)!
induction1.jpg
 
Brooky said:
Under bonnet can get very hot,i did a rolling road run without a fan, exhaust manifold was glowing and rad fan was nearly constantly on. and even with a GSR + BMC CDA filter performance was poop,made i big difference with the fan on,even tho i have no cold air feed and a standard bumper,all to be changed as of this weekend:devil:
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Can I point out, if I understood that post correctly, That...

Air filters will make no difference to the engine on a rolling road. The idea is to take in air thats coming through the engine from the outside. With no forward movement, theres no cold air coming in for the intake to.. Well.. take in. Therefore, no gain and no improvement to temperature in the engine bay :)
 
Yes, that's how I understood that post as well. So, on a rolling road, any induction system with an efficient cold air feed will have very little impact on the figures produced because they will only be performing the first part of their function and only increasing the volume and flow rate of air into the engine. So if that is all hot air there could be no difference (as that post showed) or even show a drop in performance. As I posted earlier, tests show every 10 degree F increase can reduce power by 2%.
Although I've never had my car on a RR I thought they were supposed to put a large fan in front of the car to cool the radiator? Mind you this wouldn't make an induction system perform like it's supposed to and on the road, a car with a good system would show benifits that may not have shown up on a rolling road, particularly if they use a sealed system which only uses external air to feed the engine. A rolling road session might be a disappointment after fitting a new induction system but, on the drive home, the car might feel great.
 
Rosso, I'm also interested on a set up like yours on my SX, however, your air intake is where my aircon radiator is... what would you suggest as an alternative air source?
 
Ahh! so that's where all the plumbing goes on air-con cars?
Okay, what I would do (and the only other place that will give the same effect) is use the right hand 'empty' section of the centre grill (assuming you have the same front bumper as me?). (looking at the car from the front).
You could have a roughly 6 inch square duct as a catch area which is about the same area as my 8 x 4 inch duct. Now, I'm not sure if you can get square intake ducts as all the ones I've seen are rectangular, mind you, I think Larkspeed www.larkspeed.co.uk do a 6 inch round one which reduces down to an outlet of about 2.5 - 3 inch to then connect the pipe to, to go into the airbox. Remember, it has to be completely sealed for it to work at 100% so no engine bay heat gets into the throttle body.
I had my Quickshift cone filter in an 'open' system with just a flexi hose blowing cold air around it before I built my current set up, and it was just okay at best with a minimal performance improvement. The difference now with a positive pressure 'ram effect' system is like night and day!
Let me know how you get on (y)
 
Oh, hang on!
In my eagerness to answer I got a bit carried away there - you have an SX not a Sporting so you won't have the same bumper as me - Doh!!
I can't think off hand what the SX bumper is like and if you have a big enough spare area to mount a duct, it has to have a reasonably big surface area to 'catch' enough air hitting the front of the car.
I'll track a down a pic of an SX and get back to you - not today though as I'm signing off in a minute.
 
basically you can mount it anywhere theres space and away from heat e.g manifold ect also try to keep it lowish.as air i denser closer to the floor
 
Remove the fiat badge and put a nozzle there? :rolleyes:
My radio controlled boats spent alot of time under water.
Glow plug out, wizz over with starter for a few seconds, glow plug back in, cough, fart, cough, brum brum, back in the water all in under 5 min.
 
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cojones said:
It is a 2002 SX, so the bumper looks like this:
box_pic_big_gallery_showroom_04.jpg
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Right, okay. Actually it's a pity you have the air-con rad where it is otherwise you could have had a big rectangular duct exactly like mine. But as it happens, your bumper looks nice and 'open' with plenty of space by the looks of it.
So, what is behind the grill directly under the numberplate - do you have a gap between both the engine and air-con rads? If so, I would mount the duct there as near to the air-con one as possible. It's a good air catchment area and not too low to cause any water ingress problems. I mean if you were ploughing through water that deep then there would be a world of problems created anyway. It would be a different matter if it were the actual filter that was mounted that low down, but the filter air box is up behind the n/s headlight (if you can get it there like mine that is).

If you are going to make your own custom system, then a good 'off the shelf' universal cone filter in its own sealed airbox is by 'Green Filters' called a 'nano storm'. You can get these from all the big tuning shops - www.larkspeed.co.uk (cheapest I think) or www.demontweeks.co.uk.
It can handle up to 150 bhp and comes in various colours. It is about £45. On top of this you would need the plastic air duct (from either shop also), plus a 90 degree silicone or rubber elbow into the throttle body (I got mine from an ebay shop called tuningpartsbay which does a lot of induction parts and kits) and then some flexi ally hose and a straight section from the filter to the elbow to connect it all together. Oh, and a hose for the breather pipe to feed back into the induction tube after the filter.
I reckon you could do it for about £90-95 using the kit above, and to be honest, if I was doing it again on another Sei, it's what I would get, as my system cost a bit more than that and I have to make a lot of the bits myself (air duct, filter housing).
If you have a look at some of the sealed induction systems they can run into £100s, so £90 ish isn't too bad and you get the satisfaction of building it yourself and siting everything exactly where you want it in the engine bay. I mean even the GSR kits that are popular on here are quite a bit more than this, and from what I can see, are still an 'open' design sucking in hot air.
 
rossoschumi said:
Although I've never had my car on a RR I thought they were supposed to put a large fan in front of the car to cool the radiator? Mind you this wouldn't make an induction system perform like it's supposed to and on the road, a car with a good system would show benifits that may not have shown up on a rolling road, particularly if they use a sealed system which only uses external air to feed the engine. A rolling road session might be a disappointment after fitting a new induction system but, on the drive home, the car might feel great.
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I've never heard of the use of a fan on a RR, but like you I've never used one. I've only got a standard 1.0l atm, so not much point! :LOL:

But yeah, what you said is true, Without the airflow created from forward motion into the engine, theres no cold air to be fed into the TB and will cause a decrease in power/performanceof the engine. Even if the fan was used, it'd have to be mighty powerful to match the airspeeds of the air taken in by the filter at the speeds of what the rolling road will measure (If that makes sense...).

:yum:
 
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