Save up to 15% with Adrian Flux insurance!

Technical Broken wheel nut removal

Currently reading:
Technical Broken wheel nut removal

allan jenkins

allan jenkins

Member
Joined
May 3, 2014
Messages
266
Points
65
Location
South wales
Help guys..
I removed my wheel to put mudflaps on and when I put the wheel back on i snapped the wheel nut in the car when I was tightening.....
Half the thread is still stuck in the car and I don't know how to get it out 1489248359865.jpeg
 
I've had experience of bolts that once there is no load on the thread as the heads off, there is a good Chance that with minimum purchase on the broken bit you may be able to unwind it, imagination required, maybe a bit of araldite on a 5mm rod let it dry over night, put a roll paper round the bolt to about the same diameter of the stud and only put the glue on the rod to stick to the existing part in the hub. There are clearly many challenges getting glue in the wrong place etc but the point about limited resistance to rotation needs to be exploited unless it's a captive hole which I doubt.
 
My friend once had a snapped bolt 5mm deep inside his crank, by pure get down and have a go we undid it by softening the end of a glue stick and it had no resistance once snapped and the bit left behind in a large well cut thread just unwound, good luck any way
 
If no of the above works. Start drilling with a 3-4 mm drill, go up in size until there is almost no bolt left. Thevbolt It should lousen up somewhere. It have always worked for me.
 
This happened to me 5months ago.

You require a heavy duty drill, And a threading screw

Drill straight into the Nut, and then re-threading it.

Or

You can remove the disc, And there could be a chance that some of the wheel nut is poking out, weld onto a piece of metal and unscrew it.
 
Hi. There is a do or die method if the bolt is really stuck fast and is not too deep.Get a small cold chisel and put a slot in the bolt, then get a decent impact screwdriver bit into the slot and carefully hammer away. As I say it's a desperate measure but could work.
 
Last edited:
Make sure you use a centre punch before you drill. And keep the drill straight or you will blunt the tip within seconds. Might want a bench grinder to resharpen the bit depending how hard the bolt is.
 
Forget it... I've had enough..
Scrap this post !!!
I've only gone and snapped another bolt on the same wheel and to top it all off I have damaged the security key goes my locking nuts so I won't even be able to get any of the other wheels off ???
 
allan jenkins,
I've removed a few wheel bolts that had snapped of like this,; I believe somebody has already said the method:
Drill straight through, i'd start with a 6mm bit.
Use incrementally bigger bits.
If you have or if you can buy a good quality left hand bit.. about 8-9mm thick that might just get it out.

The hardest part is to make sure you get the first hole as close to the center as possible... do not hurry, use a punch.. try to drill... if it's not centered punch again to move the hole.

If you don't have a good left hand drill bit , you can just go to about 9-9.5 mm hole, and then use a hammer and punch to cave-in the walls of the stud.. they will most likely break off... really easy to remove at that point.


What brake disks are those?
I'm thinking of getting some MTec ones for the front... they seem similar to yours.
 
it's much more difficult to remove broken studs from something like aluminum engine heads, or difficult to reach spots on engine blocks.
What you have here is in a nice and comfortable place to work.... just use a jack to move the lower control arm another 5 cm higher.

You don't really need the screw extractor, it's not a blind hole.... it would be nice.. but not needed.
 
Last edited:
aurick86 said:
allan jenkins,
I've removed a few wheel bolts that had snapped of like this,; I believe somebody has already said the method:
Drill straight through, i'd start with a 6mm bit.
Use incrementally bigger bits.
If you have or if you can buy a good quality left hand bit.. about 8-9mm thick that might just get it out.

The hardest part is to make sure you get the first hole as close to the center as possible... do not hurry, use a punch.. try to drill... if it's not centered punch again to move the hole.

If you don't have a good left hand drill bit , you can just go to about 9-9.5 mm hole, and then use a hammer and punch to cave-in the walls of the stud.. they will most likely break off... really easy to remove at that point.


What brake disks are those?
I'm thinking of getting some MTec ones for the front... they seem similar to yours.
Click to expand...
Cheers mate
..plenty of info there. A trip the shop to get extractors it is then.
The discs are drilled & groved from mtec and they are really good and look awsome on the car ?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

K
  • Question
Technical Removal of Plastic Shield cover and Fuel Tank
Replies
1
Views
267
aschiuta
A
marco99goncalves
Technical Weird electrical noise from steering wheel
Replies
3
Views
228
aschiuta
A
F
General Wheel bolts keep losing thread..?
Replies
15
Views
459
bsks
B
F
General FINALLY NOTHING BROKE
Replies
0
Views
212
Futchy
F
W
Technical Squeaking noise when turning the steering wheel – Fiat Bravo 1.9 Mjet 16v
Replies
2
Views
280
wiqq
W
Back
Top