Self respray

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Self respray

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I'm planning on respraying my new GT myself.

I have a compressor and I little experience spraying, but nothing on the scale of a whole car.

I've just ordered myself an orbital sander as well as some masking tape and brown paper to cover the windows etc. I've also ordered 50 metres of clear polythene to construct a makeshift booth in my sisters back garden (not that she knows it yet :lol:

I'm just after some tips and advice when doing this kind of work. Thanks.
 
Preparation! So much Prep you'll die of boredom.

Sisters garden?
You'll be restricted to daylight hours and good weather. You can't spray late in the afternoon because the mouisture in the air and drop in temperature will flat the paint.
 
I'm planning on building a booth remember. Polythene sheeting and a wooden frame to make a large shed like structure. I'm also planning on getting a large heat lamp. :)

I have no other choice than to pay a bodyshop. :(
 
my dad resprayed his kitcar himself, all i remember him doing is alot of filling, sanding and and more sanding lol, he did quite a few coats IIRC
with an air gun/compressor in our garage:
 

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yep prep is the thing also making sure primer is dry between flating down top coat lots of thin layers is better as paint wont run. ill be doing the same very soon when i find i sound shell for my project. also make sure you sort out some extraction on the booth(y)
 
oooo... Cobra... wicked car.... i think you'll be ok doing a respray yourself... even if you make a booth you can still suffer "Blooming" just down to the humidity in the air... try getting hold of a de-humidifer just to help...
 
oooo... Cobra... wicked car.... i think you'll be ok doing a respray yourself... even if you make a booth you can still suffer "Blooming" just down to the humidity in the air... try getting hold of a de-humidifer just to help...
cortina based with a 200bhp Cossie lump:D
 
I'm interested in DIY spraying too. I mean, how hard can it be:D. However, given the amount of preparation and kit required do the numbers really add up? I've been quoted £1500 for a proper job on my Seicento (same silver). If I was to do it myself I reckon I'd be looking at 20 hours preparation, goodness knows how many hours learning to spray plus a spray gun, compressor, extractor and all the paint. I know we all earn different money and the whole spraying process is probably quite interesting to learn, but I can't help feeling a week of overtime would pay for a professional job.

Thoughts?
 
As someone who sprays cars in an industrial works unit I shall offer some advice. :)

Fumes are going to be a huge issue when spraying an entire car.
Even with a HVLP gun when spraying 2k lacquer and base coat you will soon fill the booth with fumes. breath these in, especially the lacquer and you will be coughing your lungs up. normal masks including charcoal cannister ones are not really sufficient for an enclosed space, the fumes will get through the mask. An air fed mask is ideal. Ventilation is critical. although you can simply open up your structure to allow a through draft ;) Its not as though its going to retain heat and therefore wont be an issue to have some large vents.

As a note. The fact that you are going to be venting harmful gases in a back garden via an extractor or window, suggests you should not be spraying in a domestic environment as neighbours could be exposed.
That's your call though.


As posted above preperation is time consuming and is the key to a good paint job. Paint will not hide poor prep work infact it will amplify it. High build primer is the only paint that will conceal minor imperfections. If you get the prep work right then it will save loads of time in the long run. Also when stripping the car of plastic trims etc. Remember it is often quicker to remove mirrors and such, than to mask them up. If it comes off then remove it, this will prevent breaks in the paint/lacquer.

The actual spraying of base coat and lacquer are the faster processes of spraying a car. However as a novice time and practice should be taken with the spray gun to set it up with the correct pressure etc. Also for the user to practice holding the gun level at the correct distance from the panel to gain good trigger control and learn the correct speed in which to move it at. This is all in order to allow even paint spray ;)

Again as posted above air temperature is important. Ideally around 22degrees. So pick a nice warm day, choose the correct drying hardner for the paint and aim to have the lacquer curing well before cold temps set in.

Have the area in the booth free from contaminants and be as anal as possible about keeping things clean. (y)

Spraying outside on a sunny day is not a problem infact you can get awesome results. Is just going to be complicated doing an entire car.

hope this helps.
 
As someone who sprays cars in an industrial works unit I shall offer some advice. :)

Fumes are going to be a huge issue when spraying an entire car.
Even with a HVLP gun when spraying 2k lacquer and base coat you will soon fill the booth with fumes. breath these in, especially the lacquer and you will be coughing your lungs up. normal masks including charcoal cannister ones are not really sufficient for an enclosed space, the fumes will get through the mask. An air fed mask is ideal. Ventilation is critical. although you can simply open up your structure to allow a through draft ;) Its not as though its going to retain heat and therefore wont be an issue to have some large vents.

As a note. The fact that you are going to be venting harmful gases in a back garden via an extractor or window, suggests you should not be spraying in a domestic environment as neighbours could be exposed.
That's your call though.


As posted above preperation is time consuming and is the key to a good paint job. Paint will not hide poor prep work infact it will amplify it. High build primer is the only paint that will conceal minor imperfections. If you get the prep work right then it will save loads of time in the long run. Also when stripping the car of plastic trims etc. Remember it is often quicker to remove mirrors and such, than to mask them up. If it comes off then remove it, this will prevent breaks in the paint/lacquer.

The actual spraying of base coat and lacquer are the faster processes of spraying a car. However as a novice time and practice should be taken with the spray gun to set it up with the correct pressure etc. Also for the user to practice holding the gun level at the correct distance from the panel to gain good trigger control and learn the correct speed in which to move it at. This is all in order to allow even paint spray ;)

Again as posted above air temperature is important. Ideally around 22degrees. So pick a nice warm day, choose the correct drying hardner for the paint and aim to have the lacquer curing well before cold temps set in.

Have the area in the booth free from contaminants and be as anal as possible about keeping things clean. (y)

Spraying outside on a sunny day is not a problem infact you can get awesome results. Is just going to be complicated doing an entire car.

hope this helps.

So what you're basically saying is don't do it:). Thanks for such a long explanation. I think I am going to let the chips and dents man have a crack at it first. If that doesn't work then it's only a couple of hundred quid so not a disaster.
 
I have heard of people doing their own prep work on a car and trailoring the vehicle to the bodyshop who will then do the final stages of prep and then spray the car. At a much reduced price.

Unless you are thinking about spraying as a hobby then the actual equiptment to spray an entire car at a good quality standard is going to cost. You would need

sand /wet n dry paper
masking tape
tac cloths and panel wipe
a largish compressor.
a half decent spray gun
regulator and gauge
Filler and primer for any repairs
Paint
Thinners
Lacquer
face masks/ possibly an additional compressor to supply an air fed mask.
and time
 
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