General Rear Radius Arms

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General Rear Radius Arms

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Dec 16, 2006
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Couldn't tell you the difference, but my brother in law / my mechanic did look into the Punto version and came up with it being a no no.
 
hubby done rear on mine. He said it was quite easy to do except for the abs sensor, if you have one. If you have doc orange has shown how to get it out.

Although my hubby done that part differently. As the arms are to be replaced he cut the arm down the side of abs sensor and stopped short of cutting sensor and then tapped with cold chisel in slot to open ring around sensor. sensor came out easy. hope it helps.
 
I unbolted whole things rather than dismantle. I never disturbed the brakes (pads n disc v/good) just tied off & dangled the caliper, handbrake gripping the disc. I renewed the bearing (someone staked the thread not nut !!!!) Unbolted brake pipe runs, not unclipped. Made itall easier to replace. No rear spring clamps needed. The only 'worry' you are spared is the ABS sensor. It 'rusts' in. I used the Docs method of using a socket to tap out. The obvious way is to lever out which breaks it and they are expensive. I unbolted the exhaust clamp rather than lever the rubber off (I renewed the rear boxes too) that made life easier whilst crawling underneath. All in all easy. Oh! my Ebay.de arms had a tiny extra bit of casting which meant I had to slightly modify the brake 'rain guard' it wouldn't refit neatly. The main swing arm bolt was v/easy to pull out and replace too.
 
Got my new Radius arms From my local Fiat garage, only took a few days, So tonight got home from work early, and got started stripping down the RH rear side didn't take to long to get to removing the pivot bolt that connects the arm to the sub frame. This bolt is proving very difficult couldn't undo the nut at first despite the use of an air gun, so resorted to using the angle grinder to split the nut, now the bolt will not move. is the bolt threaded into the the sub frame, or does it run through and just locked off with a nut? I suspect that the bolt is seized inside the trailing arm bearings, any ideas on getting this B***dy thing out :bang: Spent near 2 hours just on this blasted bolt, I do wonder why I bother with this car sometimes (n)
 
Today I like my B again. As i said in my previous thread the pivot bolt was well and truly seized,To remove I hacksawed through the bolt by cutting down the side of the trailing arm and the sub frame flange doesn't sound much but it took me the best part of 2 hours as I had to cut through the bearing to get to the bolt :bang:
P1000385.jpg


Once removed the fitting of the new arm was easy I did as CasaPaulo suggested and just unbolted the brake pipe and calliper I was dreading the other side thinking I would have the same problem but apart from the pivot nut refusing to move (I just drilled it to split it ) the bolt just slid out. that was a very nice moment I was so relieved that I didn't have to spend another 3 hours on my back clutching a make shift hacksaw blade holder



Whilst I was doing this job I cleaned the springs and rubbers also wax oiled around the sub frame mountings. checked over all the bolts and went for a quick spin the car feels loads better, the reason I removed the arms was because I was getting a loud clunking noise I couldn't feel any play in the arms and the car went through the MOT. but I suspected that the bearings in one of the arms had gone this was the case in the side that had seized the roller cage had collapsed.

P1000387.jpg
 
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