Technical strange overheating problem

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Technical strange overheating problem

This is good. Unless your temperature sensor is lying your thermostat is buggered. It does not allow the coolant to flow and overheats the engine.
 
My best guess, fubared water pump. You can check the condition of the impeller by draining the coolant (keep it if it has good antifreeze in it) and removing the water rail.

If thermostat was shot, I'd expect bottom pipe to be warmer -- eventually -- than the top one.

Still, stats are cheap. just beware of no-name ones.
 
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just removed "old" one.. couple months old. on housing is written - made in italia, and in inner side, beside thermostat is written "Behr italia, A116 87 degrees".

New one, what i got is Facet make, and fiat partnumbers printed- 7545958 and 7589135.

Water pump i got new, couple months ago, it is made from steel, how it can be broken ?
 
My best guess, fubared water pump. You can check the condition of the impeller by draining the coolant (keep it if it has good antifreeze in it) and removing the water rail.

If thermostat was shot, I'd expect bottom pipe to be warmer -- eventually -- than the top one.

Still, stats are cheap. just beware of no-name ones.

he seems insistent on wrecking his engine by not removing the thermostat and checking to see if its seized
of course the top pipe will get hot by osmosis
the bottom one would take longer and of course the water pump is trying to pull water from the radiator

to be honest i think im out on this one

horse to water an all that
 
thanks lads for replays.

Just finished in pitch dark install new thermostat. Also i raised cars front as much i could. Now it looks better. fan kicks in when temp gouge in middle between half and 3/4 of scale, when idling on one spot, temperature stays between half and 3/4 of scale.
Can't check on motorway yet. will see in couple days.

edit : before ... fan kicked in only when temp gouge went to near red line.
 
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i am not happy with that thing ... still.. ok temp is down by 1/4 of scale, but now, when i driving in city, temp fluctuate between half to 3/4(seems to be thermostat does the work, and coolant goes through rad, ... when i was checking it, both pipes was veeerrryyy hot, fan kicks in), even with heating on full hot and ventilator on position 3. havent chance see it on motorway.

when i was changing thermostat yesterday , i checked internal surface of engine through thermostat hole, and it was kind greasy, brown ish fat on internal engine walls. what could be that ? would it cause my engine overheating ?
 
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i am not happy with that thing ... still.. ok temp is down by 1/4 of scale, but now, when i driving in city, temp fluctuate between half to 3/4(seems to be thermostat does the work, and coolant goes through rad, ... when i was checking it, both pipes was veeerrryyy hot, fan kicks in), even with heating on full hot and ventilator on position 3. havent chance see it on motorway.

when i was changing thermostat yesterday , i checked internal surface of engine through thermostat hole, and it was kind greasy, brown ish fat on internal engine walls. what could be that ? would it cause my engine overheating ?

If your meter is same as mine, 3/4 is already too high. The fan should kick at just about above 1/2 which means the temperature should not go above 1/2 in practice even if you are stack in traffic. I'll go for ineffective water pump, radiator and engine may need some flush to clear the oil residuals you are seeing that can make the cooling system ineffective, or you may still have some air in the system. So check that all coolant components are uniformly hot when the engine reaches 1/2. You should not see any cold patches. I found when I have problems motorway driving is OK as the radiator always gets airflow even if it half full with air.
 
When done fill with water only and chemical cleaning solution like radflush. When clean refill with water.
This might uncover leaks but better to find them before they cause yet more problems.
If needed new rads are about £35 & easy to fit.
When it's clean and not leaking dump the water, pour in 2 litres of antifreeze and top up with water. That way it's at least 50%.
 
When done fill with water only and chemical cleaning solution like radflush. When clean refill with water.
This might uncover leaks but better to find them before they cause yet more problems.
If needed new rads are about £35 & easy to fit.
When it's clean and not leaking dump the water, pour in 2 litres of antifreeze and top up with water. That way it's at least 50%.

Don't fill with 2L of anti freeze and then water, mix it to the correct concentration! To much anti freeze will often have the same damaging effect that too little has!!
 
Hi folks , some update, decided to take engine head off.... always, when I was checking coolant level , some air shhhhshhshsh ran out when i was opening expansion bottle, so there some pictures....

also decided take off gearbox and rest of engine... just for double check.


what you think, would i need change piston rings ? as i have to change crankshaft seal, have to take off oil sump. (there was no smoke before).


Some pics.....

10022012354.jpg


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10022012361.jpg
 
what you think, would i need change piston rings ? as i have to change crankshaft seal, have to take off oil sump. (there was no smoke before).

Your guess is as good as mine. By pulling the head before doing a compression test you destroyed the easiest way to come to a decision.

For sure, one chamber is a little more carbony than the others. This might be rings, valves, valve oil seals. Go measure.
 
Your guess is as good as mine. By pulling the head before doing a compression test you destroyed the easiest way to come to a decision.

For sure, one chamber is a little more carbony than the others. This might be rings, valves, valve oil seals. Go measure.

Read thread from beginning, i have tested pressure. there are some pictures with tests and measurements .

Collected head from machine shop now. compression test ok, valve pressure test ok, skimmed and cleaned.

So , what about rings ?
 
also , forgot mention, guy who looked on engine head(in machine shop), said... 100 % dodgy gasket. i noticed myself, that beside cyl. nr 3 there was some rust build up at burning chamber, and seems to be somebody changed gasket before, but never done skimming, as i could see sandpaper marks on head surface.
 
Read thread from beginning, i have tested pressure. there are some pictures with tests and measurements .

Collected head from machine shop now. compression test ok, valve pressure test ok, skimmed and cleaned.

So , what about rings ?

You didn't do a wet test, though, did you (mind, if the gasket has gone, it may have been inconclusive).

You may find a hone and re-ring actually costs more than you's pay for a decent s/h engine.

I have my doubts. Often when a hg goes and is associated with overheating, the cylinder head is quite remarkably clean (has pretty much been steam cleaned).
 
what is wet test ?

dont think do honing.
just change rings. Engine wear is very little .. Engine head skim , test, valve test cost 70 euro to me (60 £), puntos cost nothing these days(at around 100£), i am not after cheapest option, i am after better option. wouldnt say money mean nothing, if would be that , i wouldnt use punto...

but i am after reliability, fix once, and forget for long time.
 
would be wet test, when you drop couple drops of oil on top of cylinder when check compression ?
 
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