Greetings and hello,
I have a X19 with a busa conversion (248 whp @ 1507cc) and a turbo (1.3@ 667 whp)
These are just some observations take them or leave them.
I am glad to see you have a clutch slave support....this means you have the heavy clutch springs, this is good. I hope that you have also included a billet output shaft. I can almost guarantee over time with the higher weight loads and increased (over the stock busa tire) traction you will break an output shaft. This will be bad if it happens and is a real possibility with a turbo motor.
I am now currently working on a duel 530 chain sprocket countershaft with outboard bearing support that will allow 500+ HP hard launch starts for car-hayabusa conversions. It is now however in the R&D stages but will be posting the progress in the future.
I do however want to caution you on a few things including lateral force oil starvation (you should use a dry sump) if you intend on taking corners with high G-forces. If this is a drag or land speed car you need not worry.
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Here are some things if not done you will want to do. There is no manual for these things and was a hard road leaning on my own.
I dont know who modded your harness but you need to pot the TOS switch or remove it and bridge the plug with a (I think, can find out if you need) 62K ohm resistor (the ecu will not allow the motor to run if it does not see that the TOS is there, the resistor fools it). By not disabling the TOS the vibrations from the motor will cause the motor to misfire at high RPM.....even if you mount the TOS to a structural member and think its good enough....it isn’t.
Do not bypass the clutch switch by wiring the harness to think the clutch is always in. This would seem like an easy way to do it and it will run fine but the motor changes its ignition curves and limits rpm with the clutch in. You will loose about 2K rpm from redline and about 10% HP overall. I have installed a dummy clutch switch that I have to push to simulate the clutch lever in before the motor starts, once the button is released the motor returns to the correct ignition map and will run to red.
With any type of exhaust work (other than bone stock) you will want to remove the PAIR valve. I see you still have yours installed. With the PAIR valve installed your motor will backfire on deceleration and will loose about 5 HP overall. Plus the thing is crap and weighs about 8 pounds......loose it (you will need to buy or make some PAIR block offs).
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I don’t want you to think I am a jerk about giving the advice, I only wish to help.
Let me know if you run into any problems that you need help with. I have pulled enough hair out for the both of us solving the issues with car to busa conversions.
Good luck
Jonny Hotnuts