well backfiring is usually timing so it may be you need to turn the dizzy around more to change the firing point
Technical Project Paolo
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Technical Project Paolo
AndrewHarvey
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I agree -
Spark - check
Fuel - check
Backfire - timing......!
Spark - check
Fuel - check
Backfire - timing......!
the hobbler
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Morning Damian;
When I fitted my AccuSpark 'Hall effect' ignition I initially set the timing up (and got the car running) with my 'points ignition' distributor. This way I could set the static timing with a test lamp (10 degrees or 14mm BTDC). When I had got that set, and the car running, I noted carefully where the rotor arm was facing, removed my 'points' distributor and fitted the 'Hall effect' distributor. Started the engine up and set the timing with my timing-lamp--which you HAVE to use with any 'non-points' ignition. So far it has proved to be trouble free.
I still have my 'points' ignition distributor set aside as a spare and the matching coil---if you need to borrow them, just ask. I have your address so can easily post them down to you.
As I will assume that your cam-timing is correct, I would agree that the problem does sound like ignition timing. With the rear cylinder rockers 'on the rock', your rotor-arm should be pointing to no. 1 on your distributor cap (and no.1 tower on the distributor cap is at the FRONT of the cap!) The fuel can take some time to pull through from 'dry'---have you tried (may I be struck down for suggesting this!) "easy-start" for your initial 'burst into life'? Keep us advised of progress please
When I fitted my AccuSpark 'Hall effect' ignition I initially set the timing up (and got the car running) with my 'points ignition' distributor. This way I could set the static timing with a test lamp (10 degrees or 14mm BTDC). When I had got that set, and the car running, I noted carefully where the rotor arm was facing, removed my 'points' distributor and fitted the 'Hall effect' distributor. Started the engine up and set the timing with my timing-lamp--which you HAVE to use with any 'non-points' ignition. So far it has proved to be trouble free.
I still have my 'points' ignition distributor set aside as a spare and the matching coil---if you need to borrow them, just ask. I have your address so can easily post them down to you.
As I will assume that your cam-timing is correct, I would agree that the problem does sound like ignition timing. With the rear cylinder rockers 'on the rock', your rotor-arm should be pointing to no. 1 on your distributor cap (and no.1 tower on the distributor cap is at the FRONT of the cap!) The fuel can take some time to pull through from 'dry'---have you tried (may I be struck down for suggesting this!) "easy-start" for your initial 'burst into life'? Keep us advised of progress please
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Paolo66
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So went back to basics today and removed the hall effect sensor and fitted points and condensor. Set up distributor and tried starting but again got nothing. Read my 126 manual which had a paragraph about how to find out when no. 1 piston is on compression stroke. Checked mine and found I was 180• out! What a numpty! Swapped leads around and he started coughing. Turned dizzy slightly and he sparked into life. He needs tuning and setting up but definate progress today. Swapped leads over with hall effect sensor but still wouldnt work so I dont know what went wrong there. Once I get him how I want him I will try the hall effect again. Got a video but for some reason my phone cant attach it, sorry
the hobbler
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Well done Damian for persevering and succeeding. It could be that when you initially tried to start the car with the 'Hall effect' ignition, the fuel just hadn't been pulled through enough--it does take some time to come through 'from dry'. Get it set up and running properly on the 'points' ignition, then fit the 'Hall effect' ignition, noting carefully where the rotor arm points to. It might help if you turn the engine over a little bit, so that the rotor-arm is lined up with something easy to align with---it won't matter what, as long as you fit it all back in the same position. You will need a proper timing-light to time the ignition with anything other than 'points' ignition.
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Paolo66
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Once I had the engine at idle I checked the voltage at the battery. I was only getting 12.3v. I thought this should be 14v? The generator light is out but it seems like the battery is not getting charged. How do I test it?
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Paolo66
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Revving the engine and the battery voltage has gone up to 12.6v so now it looks like it is getting charged. Drove him forward and backwards so gears work and brakes work. Think I've got the wrong jets in the carb as he is hesitant on acceleration. None of my jets had identification on them so I just guessed
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Paolo66
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Lots of little jobs done today. Number plate light wired up. Engine lid lock polished up and fitted. Rear number plate and bumper fitted. Wing mirrors on. Wiper blades fitted and tested. Took him for a little spin around the close and got into 4th so all the gears work. Checked voltage at battery at revs and it increases to 14v so all good there. A couple of electrical gremlins but nothing major. Should be MOT ready by end of the month.
That's an unusual boot lock?
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Paolo66
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Yes I've not seen another one. I was going to replace it with another style but after polishing it up today I decided to keep it
the hobbler
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Hi Damian---what engine have you got in the back of your 'wee beastie' and what carb? 'Webcon' can supply the jets you require, and I have the basic carb settings for the 500 and 126 engines if you need/want them.
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Paolo66
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Hi Damian---what engine have you got in the back of your 'wee beastie' and what carb? 'Webcon' can supply the jets you require, and I have the basic carb settings for the 500 and 126 engines if you need/want them.
Its a 650 with Weber 28 imb 10. I've got the jet info but like I said all my jets didnt have any marks on them. Its got to be a carb issue because you have got to put the choke fully up to get it started but once started you can immediately switch the choke off. Its also very juddery
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Paolo66
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Does anybody know off the tops of their heads what thread size and pitch the seat belt bolts are? I need to run a tap through the fixings as they are filled with paint. A quick measure of the bolt shows 11mm and its a fine pitch so not standard size
By co-incidence, I was reading the manual for my Fiat 900e Amigo and find the threads for the belt mountings on that are listed as 7/16 x 20 UNF 2B; worth a try if you happen to have that tap available as it sounds possible given your quick observations.
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Paolo66
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It seems, on doing a little further digging, that 7/16" is a standard seat belt bolt size. Will confirm tomorrow when I get to work and check against a thread guage
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Paolo66
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New rear bumper fitted. The chrome started coming off the old one when I started polishing it. Also front number plate on. He looks like a car now. Sort out the bonnet, fit seat belts, set up suspension and then MOT. Not long now
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Paolo66
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Set up front toe in today. For now I have had to bodge the bonnet but there's still too much of a gap at the front. Will have to get it done properly over the winter. Engine was running but was very rough and was hesitant under acceleration. Took carb off and checked all jets were correct to spec. One was wrong but I had the correct one in a spares box. Engine was still running rough and I deduced that the spark wasnt strong enough. I took the points and condensor off and replaced them with the hall effect sensor I had. Bang! Instantly different. Running smoother, better starting and instant under accelaration. Took him out for a test drive and theres a couple of things not running right. Theres a whine when in first gear only. You cant get it in reverse without scrunching the gears. The light for the indicators stays on all the time and flashes when you select the indicators.
Don't know whether we are going to rush getting it MOT'd and insured. We are away for most of August and then the weather is going to start getting worse. Especially if I have to take the gearbox out to fix the issues. We'll just see how it all goes
Don't know whether we are going to rush getting it MOT'd and insured. We are away for most of August and then the weather is going to start getting worse. Especially if I have to take the gearbox out to fix the issues. We'll just see how it all goes
Don't put it off in the search for perfection Damian. The best way to sort out running issues is to use it. Looking back I had quite a way to go with what appeared to be, in the MOT man's eyes "like a new car". It passed no problem but the minute I got it home I was changing a light lense and within weeks I had to replace the original rear wheel bearings. A few months later I had the dynamo in bits.
That way you have running start for next year and it won't be any hindrance to any remaining niggly issues.
Added to what Peter said. When I first drove my 500 after the restoration and it was a few years since it had moved, about 15. I was a bit concerned about the first gear whine. I thought it sounded like a problem but as I had filmed the first drive you could hear it and Peter pointed out that it was perfectly normal. It's more like a sole full groan as it pulls away.
