General Is your Panda overcooling in the cold weather?

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General Is your Panda overcooling in the cold weather?

Another thing is...the temp gauge...I checked 2 or 3 and every shows different temperature :(
 
Another thing is...the temp gauge...I checked 2 or 3 and every shows different temperature :(

Sorry to interrupt......but temp-sender, shoul have following resistance (you can check with simple ohm-meter):
°C /Ω Ohms


-20 /15971

-10/ 9620

0 /5975

10 /3816

20 /2502

25 /2044

30 /1679

40 /1152

50 /807

60 /576

70 /418

80 /309

90 /231

100 /176


So, if mearsured resistance mach -to this table, then thermostat stays open (even semi-open) all the time, from the start of engine, allowing full coolant cycle (through rad and engine all the time), and engine simply cant reach working temperature 90....Blocking air flow covering rad, could help, but if you get in traffic jam, could start with overheating.....
 
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Hmmmm..... Mine seems ok getting to usual recorded temp, but the heater is pretty feeble. It's warm, but not exactly hot!

I was thinking about flushing the system & heater matrix, but is this a waste of time (and paraflu)? :confused:

Gavin.
 
Hi aca - thank you for that....that's what I was lookign for...I even check my resistance for temp sender (but for ECU) so now I know it's still OK....
Is it sender for gauge? is it the same for all Panda with temp gauge ?
Are you sure that it is that sender? how to check it...conect sender and earth? because there is only one pin....
Have you got more dates? (for another senders/sensors)
 
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Hi aca - thank you for that....that's what I was lookign for...I even check my resistance for temp sender (but for ECU) so now I know it's still OK....
Is it sender for gauge? is it the same for all Panda with temp gauge ?
Are you sure that it is that sender? how to check it...conect sender and earth? because there is only one pin....
Have you got more dates? (for another senders/sensors)

Sender for ECU temp rec is on the inlet manifold iirc, and the one for the in-car temp guage is on the back of the engine, to the left if looking at it from the front, near the belt cover (y)


The 750L was seriously cool when I had her. So much so I blocked off the whole of the front grille. Had no problems doing this, and she never over heated as there is ample coming through the bumper slits. The only time the cooling fan ever kicked in during the winter was when doing 80+ along the dual carrageway!

Took it off in the summer. I actually made a plastic air blocker using two folders that I cut up, and secured in place with cable ties.

The 1000CL also runs on the cold side, and also has a naff heater (luke warm at best).

The Selecta's on the other hand run nice and warm, and if anything to hot in the summer, and from what I've had of the Sisley, she runs just right, and warms up quickly. Has a warm heater in traffic, and a red hot one when driving along the dual carrageway.

Jon.
 
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Hi aca - thank you for that....that's what I was lookign for...I even check my resistance for temp sender (but for ECU) so now I know it's still OK....
Is it sender for gauge? is it the same for all Panda with temp gauge ?
Are you sure that it is that sender? how to check it...conect sender and earth? because there is only one pin....
Have you got more dates? (for another senders/sensors)


Hi Jancy, there is two senders and both of the same resistance, namely on the 20 C have 2.5 kilo ohms. Senders are positioned as Most Esterly explained....
Resistance could be measured between earth and pin. Senders have NTC resistor (Negative resistance coef.), meaning higher temp, less resistance, as in scale I quote. My Panda 1.1MPI with 187A1000 engine even not have second sender for gauge and it’s without gauge. I find one on scrap and fitted in place under tank-gauge, use simply NTC resistor of 2.5K clamped in connector, then attach to appropriate place where upper tube from radiator getting into engine. Reading is mostly correct....
Here is links form serbian Panda forum, with pic......how to........
http://217.26.67.168/uploads/2/1/2130153/16112008427.jpg
http://www.elitemadzone.org/t339835-4-Merac-temperature-motora
http://217.26.67.168/uploads/2/1/2130153/06122008450.jpg
 
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Hi Aca/Most Easterly Pandas
Thanks...yes I know about two type of senders...I'll check it in Panda and in Punto 16V engine (I've got access) if it's same....
Link doesn't work now, but I have to check at home:)
 
Hi Aca/Most Easterly Pandas
Thanks...yes I know about two type of senders...I'll check it in Panda and in Punto 16V engine (I've got access) if it's same....
Link doesn't work now, but I have to check at home:)

Hi Jangcy, just few words moore....Sender for ECU have two pins (earth in, and out with resistance of NTC) Sender for gauge, has only one pin, earth is on body and pin is out for gauge signal (earth with resistance of NTC).....Value of both senders is 2500 ohms. Some models instead of sender have switch for overheating light on the panel for the Pandas without gauge (same size and position, near cambelt, but its switch, not sender.
 
Oh yes...most continental Pandas have just Hi-temp warning light:(...most english Pandas have temp gauge :)
BTW....temp sender for ECU in Bosch systems has got different resistance than sender for Magnetti/Weber injection systems....(I've check it before...)
 
Oh yes...most continental Pandas have just Hi-temp warning light:(...most english Pandas have temp gauge :)
BTW....temp sender for ECU in Bosch systems has got different resistance than sender for Magnetti/Weber injection systems....(I've check it before...)
Yes Jangcy, I suppose bechause of that on the back of instrument panel, there is place for adjusting resistor to be soldered in case of diferent value of sender. See attached pic
 

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oh Yes...I found it last time when I was fitting rev counter in to clocks...will send pictures sometimes on weekend...
and in one model I had just wire and in other I had resistor....
also there was about 3-5 liters different between fuel gauges :confused:
 
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oh Yes...I founf it last time when I was fitting rev counter in to clocks...will send pictures sometimes on weekend...
and in one model I had just wire and in other I had resistor....
also there was about 3-5 liters different between fuel gauges :confused:

I Agree, suppose - bechause we have Panda - models with 42 lit fuel tank and 32 liters fuel tank, so resistor make correction of pre-resistance of fuel-level sender himselves.
 
I Agree, suppose - bechause we have Panda - models with 42 lit fuel tank and 32 liters fuel tank, so resistor make correction of pre-resistance of fuel-level sender himselves.

hmm I've got Panda with injection and clocks were from 750 carb...you may be right...there could me some differents...I think plastic tanks are 42 and 35 liters....
 
Well, this morning I didn't make it to work due to the carb icing up in the last mile. Had to sit and wait for heat to soak through and limped here in the end. When testing the thermostat would peeps here expect it to hold water if filled from the hose side and turned upside down? I realise there is a reasonable size bypass, but if angled away from the bypass, the seal should prevent any water escaping, right?
 
Well, this morning I didn't make it to work due to the carb icing up in the last mile. Had to sit and wait for heat to soak through and limped here in the end. When testing the thermostat would peeps here expect it to hold water if filled from the hose side and turned upside down? I realise there is a reasonable size bypass, but if angled away from the bypass, the seal should prevent any water escaping, right?

Not had time to read the other posts since my reply, but icing up means the bit of pipe from the manifold to the airfilter box must be missing dosent it? That is there to prevent this from happening?

Jon.
 
Not had time to read the other posts since my reply, but icing up means the bit of pipe from the manifold to the airfilter box must be missing dosent it? That is there to prevent this from happening?

Jon.
or more likely the daft thermostatic flappy bit in the airbox that is supposed to open and draw air from the manifold is knackered. rip it out and bung up the cold air intake for the winter!
 
hmm I've got Panda with injection and clocks were from 750 carb...you may be right...there could me some differents...I think plastic tanks are 42 and 35 liters....

Correct. Carbed are 35L and Injection 42L iirc. With Steel 4x4 tanks being 30L.

or more likely the daft thermostatic flappy bit in the airbox that is supposed to open and draw air from the manifold is knackered. rip it out and bung up the cold air intake for the winter!

Ahh yes. So very true.
 
or more likely the daft thermostatic flappy bit in the airbox that is supposed to open and draw air from the manifold is knackered. rip it out and bung up the cold air intake for the winter!
Good call on that. It slipped my mind completely. The mechanism never works reliably! Rad now completely blanked off. Will see what the situation is on my commute home...
 
Full blanking worked and I ran around 90 once warmed, this crept up as I went quicker, peaking at 95ish, so probably safe to remove a little bit at least. No shivering for me! No carb icing, part due to general increase in heat of engine as well as the flap in the airbox I'm sure. Quite a bit faster without the icing up and no choking for the first time!

Did FIAT ever make a radiator muffler for colder countries or did they have different rads/systems completely perhaps?
 
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