Technical HI Need help with wiring 500 L

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Technical HI Need help with wiring 500 L

Hi does anyone know where I can get a RHD steering box pinion for a 1972 500 L.
I did not Know until recently that the right hand and left hand use a different one.

Thanks
 
Wow - that sounds like a "unicorn" request!
Good luck!
Try Tony at MBG
Proietti in London....
 
My next problem is the clutch.Being a tight wad I looked at the old clutch

spinner plate and it had plenty of meat left on it so in it went.It is a 650cc

engine with a syncro gearbox with solenoid starter.When I fitted the clutch

cable ,it was near the end of its travel.Are there any differences in levers,

release bearings covers etc.( it has the clutch that came on the engine,ball

bearing release .) I am just taking the engine out to inspect it.I have already

ordered new kit and I will try it before it goes back in.I put a large push

starter button in the centre of the dash and it works great (also lights up when pressed )
 
Hey Mr. Phoenix, we need some pictures please.:)
That starter button sounds good.
I would have changed the clutch in any case and actually bought a whole kit off Ebay last week for less than £3.50 plus postage.
We've come across several clutch release types for later 500s and 126, some wildly different and they all seem to interchange.
You may have the same issue as me with your cable. I ran out of thread and needed a spacer under the special conical nut, An additional nut with the internal threads drilled out would have been perfect but I used two brass manifold nuts roughly bored out as in the photo. placed together under the nut as spacers I got my adjustment.
DSC_9551 by Peter Thompson, on Flickr
 
Hi I will try to take some photos when I get the engine out. When I tried driving

back and forth in the garage it was a very snappy pickup, not good at all /So I
will wait and see .
Thanks
 
:) Well thats all sorted The new clutch arrived today and the pressure plate

and spinner are the same size ( and make ,Valo) But the release bearing

is much deeper on the new one 110mm to 75mm on the old one.This will alter the

angle of the arm greatly .Why do they make so many different but similar looking

parts.Now to put it all back together .Hey Ho
 
I had problems with the pattern part release bearing when I was rebuilding my 650 engine. Make sure it sits on the main shaft and moves up and down smoothly when you move the actuating arm. I bolted mine all back together then discovered that it would get jammed on the shaft. It only requires a small amount of movement but it's worth checking first.

Tony
 
I thought while the engine was out as it was a bit of an unknown
quantity I would have the sump off. Bearings seem fine but I found a
cleaning brush in the sludge of the sump.I am trying the impossible and
that is to get a leak free engine and transmission.
 
I am trying the impossible and
that is to get a leak free engine and transmission.

It is possible despite a certain amount of acceptance of leaks from some people. But I suspect that you would have to completely dismantle the engine and replace all seals and gaskets to be sure of no leaks. Even then, most of the leaks I found, even after a full and careful rebuild, were from unexpected places like the timing cover and seal which were new.
Somewhere on the linked page I waffled on about this problem.
https://www.fiatforum.com/500-classic/422579-murphios-meanderings-17.html
 
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Not wishing to teach you to suck eggs, I would suggest that you use the 'ruberoid' sump (and rocker-cover) gasket as against the cork variety. The cork gasket splits too easily, and then leaks even worse than the leak you were trying to cure! Whilst you have the sump off, I would recommend that you replace it with an aluminium sump (you can get them 'un-named'). The extra capacity of the ally sump (3-1/2 litres) really helps keep the engine cool. I secure them with 25mm stainless cap-head (allen) bolts whilst retaining the original Fiat washers--so far, never had a problem.
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To late to do anything else ,I have already fitted standard gasket with a a small
amount of Hylomar.Engine back in now and I will start up tomorrow.It has been of the road since 1988 and it has a different engine (650cc) and a syncromesh gearbox
from another source.I have booked an MOT test for tuesday so I will have to wait and see.
.
 
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Now the alternator is no putting anything out.I will take it to MOT as
it is and change it later. Lucky for me the test station is not far away.
When they fail what usually goes.I think if it was the regulator I should
still be able to detect some voltage albeit high.I have had the carbon
brushes out and they seem fine,so can it be the windings or something
else.Are all the alternators the same fittings and regulator as it seems
there are a few different makes.
 
The diode bridge is a likely issue. This converts alternating current to direct current and can fail because of heat and age. A replacement can be bought BUT you maybe better off getting a reconditioned replacement alternator. Another issue may be the regulator - but you would see a voltage - just a wrong one...
A replacement range between £80 - £120
 
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If when I purchase a new alternator and it is not necessary to return
old one ,I will strip it and try to find cause.I used to work in repair
of electronics so I will be able to test or replace diodes etc.Nobody
nowadays seem to repair things down to component level,just replace
the lot.I suppose its economics with labour costing what it does.my time
to me is free as I am retired and I like repairing things .I will let you know
how I go on.This is probably my last major car rebuild after two Mini's and a
Frogeye Sprite .Anyway I think my wife would not be pleased at all if
I brought a new project home.I have also run out of space to keep them
all.
 
Just taken for mot and it passed and would you believe and no oil leaks.
Not bad for a car built from a bare shell and the rest in cardboard boxes.
There were a few minor bits,one brake banjo weeping slightly,headlights slightly to high and one rear brake binding a bit. So just the alternator to change and
those few bits to do.I must also get help from a friend to set up all the
shims etc to get the geometry right. (y)
 
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Just taken for mot and it passed and would you believe and no oil leaks.
Not bad for a car built from a bare shell and the rest in cardboard boxes.

NOT BAD? It's fantastic and great credit to you and your persistence.:worship:
You have to show us some celebratory photos please.(y)
What do you plan to do next? Regular driving? A big trip? Shows?
I had a look inside my alternator this morning and it's horrible. I think most places expect the old one back if you get a refurbished one, but it doesn't look as nice to overhaul as the dynamo.
 
I am insured on my Astra with Admiral and added the Fiat this morning
costing all of £35 fully comp with agreed value.Not bad at all.
Can somebody tell me in simple terms how to get photos from my hard drive
to this thread.

A big thanks to everybody for all the advice on this forum.(y)
 
Can somebody tell me in simple terms how to get photos from my hard drive
to this thread.

Are you using a laptop/PC or the mobile site?

Presuming laptop/PC, when you are using the "reply" box, in amongst all the icons above the white area there is one showing a paperclip. Click the arrow to the right of it and a box will pop up called "Manage Attachments". Click on the first "browse" and you can search your computer for the location of the image you want. Click on it and repeat if you want more images...most people use up to 4 at a time.
Then click "Upload" and after a short time the images will be listed underneath. You can close the box and submit your message as usual and the images will be there.
 
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