Technical Frothy oil under filler cap?

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Technical Frothy oil under filler cap?

Tropicalmike

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My 64 plate Twin Air lounge gets a small amount of beige coloured froth under the oil filler cap / top of the dip stick when I check the oil . Any body seen this and what it means ? I wiped it away but it comes back after a few hundred miles

The oil on the other end of the dip stick looks fine and doesn't seem contaminated and the engine performs fine . The water coolant level has not changed .

I have only had the car 4 months and done 2000 miles and it was serviced just before I bought it with 0-30w synthetic oil ( so garage said ) .

An ideas , Thanks
 
My 64 plate Twin Air lounge gets a small amount of beige coloured froth under the oil filler cap / top of the dip stick when I check the oil . Any body seen this and what it means ? I wiped it away but it comes back after a few hundred miles

The oil on the other end of the dip stick looks fine and doesn't seem contaminated and the engine performs fine . The water coolant level has not changed .

I have only had the car 4 months and done 2000 miles and it was serviced just before I bought it with 0-30w synthetic oil ( so garage said ) .

An ideas , Thanks

Hi 🙂,
Thats perfectly normal 👍

It's steam from Cold Moist Air in the cooler months Mixing with oil Vapour from the running engine, and blending this "Mayonnaise"

Pic of my 500's cap, and that does 2 hour trips..!
IMG_20240116_122516.jpg
 
Hi 🙂,
Thats perfectly normal 👍

It's steam from Cold Moist Air in the cooler months Mixing with oil Vapour from the running engine, and blending this "Mayonnaise"

Pic of my 500's cap, and that does 2 hour trips..! View attachment 436998
Thanks for the quick reply . Yes a bit like Mayo! It sounds plausible but how is the moist air getting inside the crank case part? Possibly from some condensation when engine is stopped in cold weather ? I can see your filler cap is not one on a twin air engine as no dipstick attached . We have two 500s with twin air engines in the family and the other one has not been effected by this at all . I am now thinking is there a crankcase breather/vent that I should check and clean ? Thanks
 
Not at all uncommon when its cold and wet ( last couple of months qualify id say!) check once a week and wipe out the cap , make sure the oil is kept at the right level, and check the coolant level is not dropping significantly! if you only do short trips and the motor is not at running temp for very long then it would be good to change the engine oil more frequently every 3k miles IMO! switch to a good quality 05w/40w around March time.
If you really want some re-assurance then you could get a block"sniff test"! kit to check there are no exhaust gases present in the coolant, just for your piece of mind!
 
I can see your filler cap is not one on a twin air engine as no dipstick attached . We have two 500s with twin air engines in the family and the other one has not been effected by this at all .

I am now thinking is there a crankcase breather/vent that I should check and clean ? Thanks

It's pot luck!!
my 2 x twinairs only have a hint of this, the 500 being far worse,

And it is fine all summer,

I wouldn't do anything more than keeping an eye on fluid levels

Maybe a oilchange in the spring 🙂

In my early days on the road, when engine control wasn't half as complex

Running issues in winter was far from unusual due to large volumes of this goo being generated.
 
switch to a good quality 05w/40w around March time
That would be good advice for a 1.2, but this is a TA.

It's extremely important with the TA to always use the oil specified by the manufacturer, or the inlet valves may not operate correctly. Not doing so has caused several folks to have some sometimes quite serious problems.
 
It sounds plausible but how is the moist air getting inside the crank case part? Possibly from some condensation when engine is stopped in cold weather ?
Fairly simple. Hot air expands. This is released out of breather pipes in the engine. when the hot air from inside the engine cools down again after the car is stopped those breather pipes are able to pull cold damp air from the atmosphere back into the engine.
 
That would be good advice for a 1.2, but this is a TA.

It's extremely important with the TA to always use the oil specified by the manufacturer, or the inlet valves may not operate correctly. Not doing so has caused several folks to have some sometimes quite serious problems.
Is 0/30w synthetic the right oil then? what should the OP use in summer? would you still change it MORE frequently than recommended!?.
 
Thanks for all the comments guys . I think I am going to wipe it out weekly and monitor . I will change the oil soon so I will be certain it has the correct 0-30 w grade. But does anyone know the location of the crank case breather on the twin air engine ? What is the best place or source to get a twin air engine manual ? Thanks
 
Thanks for all the comments guys . I think I am going to wipe it out weekly and monitor . I will change the oil soon so I will be certain it has the correct 0-30 w grade. But does anyone know the location of the crank case breather on the twin air engine ? What is the best place or source to get a twin air engine manual ? Thanks

Twinair manual.. Very little info out there 🤔.
Why the Alfa/ Lancia owners all converse😉

0w30, check you manual
My TA's use different grades

Selenia IF you can get it..

Shop4parts, or a DEALER

I often just use Opie Oils online site to figure out nearest alternatives 🙂
 
This ain't 1985 anymore we don't have summer and winter oils

If you've got a 1.2, you can put in pretty much anything that could legally be described as engine oil and it'll likely be just fine.

If you've got a TA, and you put in an oil that has a different temperature/viscosity curve to the one that's programmed into the engine's management system, the valve gear isn't going to work correctly.

We've seen 1.2 owners get away with having no visible oil on the dipstick for many miles.

We've seen TA owners with a generic but in-grade oil with engines that would barely run until the correct selenia oil was used.
 
If you've got a 1.2, you can put in pretty much anything that could legally be described as engine oil and it'll likely be just fine.

If you've got a TA, and you put in an oil that has a different temperature/viscosity curve to the one that's programmed into the engine's management system, the valve gear isn't going to work correctly.
To blinking technical for my liking!, from all the problems that come up on here with the Ta cars I would not want one if some one was to offer me one for free!!far to much trouble and expense involved and a fair case of Fiat (and the other manufactures) getting the customer to do the research and developement for them instead of paying to do it properly in the first place! TA no thanks!
 
To blinking technical for my liking!, from all the problems that come up on here with the Ta cars I would not want one if some one was to offer me one for free!!far to much trouble and expense involved and a fair case of Fiat (and the other manufactures) getting the customer to do the research and developement for them instead of paying to do it properly in the first place! TA no thanks!
VAG have been saying the same for many years, correct vag spec'd oil or you'll wreck your engine.
 
I have four cars and seven bikes!- my choice of oils and changing it more regularly than the service interval states has served me well enough! no excess wear and no engine related breakdowns in 17 years(the saab has done 211k miles) I understand that more modern vehicles are build and designed to different specs to my old clunkers so might need different"care"!.
VAG have been saying the same for many years, correct vag spec'd oil or you'll wreck your engine.
ITS not just about mileage its about conditions of use as well- short journeys ,lots of stop starts ,weather ect if you want to leave it so your oil is contaminated and full of combustion deposits(carbon/ acids etc)thats up to you! like the rest of us its your choice! my choices have kept my fleet of vehicles running well and reliably for 17 years with no repair costs above the service requirements! thank god(if there is one?) i have not had to pay a "mechanic!) the debt of a third world country to change the liquid gold fluid in a "robot" to make sure it changes gear properly for me!
feel free to consign me to the "old gits "section :eek: quite happy to live there!🤣(y)
 
Earlier TA's use 5w 40 C3 which is what is put in our 2011 Euro 5, but it changed for the Euro 6 TA's...

But, a degree of diligence is required when buying oil for more modern vehicles these days...

Some reasonable prices out there at the moment, as I've just stocked up for our two ready for when the warmer weather presents an opportunity for me to get the spanners out...
 
Hi 🙂,
Thats perfectly normal 👍

It's steam from Cold Moist Air in the cooler months Mixing with oil Vapour from the running engine, and blending this "Mayonnaise"

Pic of my 500's cap, and that does 2 hour trips..! View attachment 436998
Agreed in fact it looks good. If you really want to be rid of it search catch can in the Panda thread.
 
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