Technical Fiat ducato 1999 immobiliser

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Technical Fiat ducato 1999 immobiliser

Jonjones115

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Hi everyone, new here, I've got a problem with my fiat ducato 1999 2.8 motorhome, bought it in September was running brilliant started first time everytime, battery died over Christmas, jump started it fine with a booster pack, let it run on the drive foe 30 min then took it for a spin, came home parked it on the drive tried to start it again but it would turn over and not start, and the code light on the dash won't go off.

Any help would be much appreciated

Thanks
 
Hi everyone, new here, I've got a problem with my fiat ducato 1999 2.8 motorhome, bought it in September was running brilliant started first time everytime, battery died over Christmas, jump started it fine with a booster pack, let it run on the drive foe 30 min then took it for a spin, came home parked it on the drive tried to start it again but it would turn over and not start, and the code light on the dash won't go off.

Any help would be much appreciated

Thanks
Have you tried to start it using the spare key? or I would remove the +ve or -ve from the cab battery, leave for a minute, reconnect and try again.
 
Have you tried to start it using the spare key? or I would remove the +ve or -ve from the cab battery, leave for a minute, reconnect and try
Tried both keys haven't tried removing battery yet Will try when I get home
 
Browse this thread. Of which most applies to pre 2000 x230 models.

The following applies to mechanical injection engines.

The chip in the key is an electronic transponder, similar but more complex than a supermarket security tag. There is an aeriel surrounding the ignition key (black ring), a code receiver which is usually hidden in the steering column, and an immobiliser on the injection pump. This immobiliser is protected by a tamper resistant shield.

When the ignition is switched on, the code receiver sends an energising and interrogating radio pulse to the key. The key should reply by sending its coded identity. If this code matches one stored in code receiver, a message is sent to the immobiliser on the pump, to allow the energisation of the fuel cut off, or stop solenoid. (The solenoid must be energised to allow fuel to flow.)

Metal objects on the key ring can absorb the weak radio signals. Other coded keys can cause interference. The weak radio signals can be attenuated by lightly corroded contacts at the code receiver, also it is possible for the short cable from the aeriel to be damaged. There is also the possibility of the radio components going off tune.

When I had code failures on my 2006 x244 last year, I approached the problem from the attenuated radio signal direction. There was some precedent for this approach.

Having gained access to the code receiver I disconnected the three pole aeriel connector, applied contact cleaner and replaced. For good measure, I also treated the other connector the same way.

On testing the system functioned as normal, with no failures to date. Worth a try, but no guarantee of success.

If all else fails you have the advantage that the immobiliser can be removed from the pump, allowing the ignition feed and solenoid wires joined. The vehicle will then start with an unchipped key, but there may be insurance implications.
 
Fixed now, thanks for the help, it was the immobiliser on the fuel pump causing the problem.
 
Fixed now, thanks for the help, it was the immobiliser on the fuel pump causing the problem.
I've got the same problem, can you clarify that when you say the immobiliser on the pump your talking about the fuel cut off solenoid on the pump that has a single wire going to it ? Did you need to replace the solenoid to cure the fault. I would appreciate any info you can give. Thank you.
 
I've got the same problem, can you clarify that when you say the immobiliser on the pump your talking about the fuel cut off solenoid on the pump that has a single wire going to it ? Did you need to replace the solenoid to cure the fault. I would appreciate any info you can give. Thank you.
Send me a message and I'll dig out the photos I took
 
I don't think I can message until I hit 5 posts, I didn't want to share the photos on here as it does mean that my motorhome doesn't currently have a factory immobiliser
 
I don't think I can message until I hit 5 posts, I didn't want to share the photos on here as it does mean that my motorhome doesn't currently have a factory immobiliser
And I haven't made 5 posts yet so I suppose I can't you
 
If you've got this type of fuel pump, the immobiliser is black box on the right hand side
1000014905.jpg


1000014914.jpg


I started by knocking off all the plastic to reveal the 2 tamper bolts underneath

1000014907.jpg

1000014909.jpg


Then the fun part begins, you've got to cut them bolts off, I used a multi tool and got lucky because it just spun them off with the vibration

The cable you want will be located under the metal casing

You can just about see it in the corner of this pic
1000014912.jpg


Once you've got access to that cable, one of the cables from the original 3 pin connector is an ignition live and can be used to open the solenoid

Hope this helps
 
Last edited:
If you've got this type of fuel pump, the immobiliser is black box on the right hand side
View attachment 438640

View attachment 438641

I started by knocking off all the plastic to reveal the 2 tamper bolts underneath

View attachment 438642
View attachment 438643

Then the fun part begins, you've got to cut them bolts off, I used a multi tool and got lucky because it just spun them off with the vibration

The cable you want will be located under the metal casing

You can just about see it in the corner of this pic
View attachment 438644

Once you've got access to that cable, one of the cables from the original 3 pin connector is an ignition live and can be used to open the solenoid

Hope this helps
Hi Many thanks for the photos. I have the same set up as yours. This will really help. Thanks for sharing
 
Hi Many thanks for the photos. I have the same set up as yours. This will really help. Thanks for sharing
No worries, let me know how it goes, if you need anymore help just let me know.

You can also remove the yellow box on the steering column once done, this will get rid of the code light on the dash then
 
Did you go for the pump immobiliser so that you could bypass the system or was there a fault in the unit?
I’ve had a look earlier, did you break through the metal plate to access the wiring?
I’m wondering that it all looks like when it’s finished.
Sorry, you’ve opened yourself up for all the questions 😂😂😂
I noticed that mine has this unit (see photo ) fitted, but the single wire was disconnected and hadn’t been on for some time. I had presumed it was a basic fuel solenoid, but now know better. Any idea what it is? 😎

IMG_9364.jpeg
 
Did you go for the pump immobiliser so that you could bypass the system or was there a fault in the unit?
I’ve had a look earlier, did you break through the metal plate to access the wiring?
I’m wondering that it all looks like when it’s finished.
Sorry, you’ve opened yourself up for all the questions 😂😂😂
I noticed that mine has this unit (see photo ) fitted, but the single wire was disconnected and hadn’t been on for some time. I had presumed it was a basic fuel solenoid, but now know better. Any idea what it is? 😎

View attachment 438778
I had code showing on the dash and it wouldn't start, once I stripped down the fuel pump immobiliser it looked like the board had burnt out, that 3 wire cable in your hand looks like the one going to the fuel pump immobiliser, I knocked the plastic off it, then had a metal plate with the tamper nuts on it, cut them off and found a standard solenoid with one wire, connected that to and ignition live, one of the 3 wires going to the immobiliser is an ignition live that you can use
I'll take some photos tomorrow of the finished job
 
Did you go for the pump immobiliser so that you could bypass the system or was there a fault in the unit?
I’ve had a look earlier, did you break through the metal plate to access the wiring?
I’m wondering that it all looks like when it’s finished.
Sorry, you’ve opened yourself up for all the questions 😂😂😂
I noticed that mine has this unit (see photo ) fitted, but the single wire was disconnected and hadn’t been on for some time. I had presumed it was a basic fuel solenoid, but now know better. Any idea what it is? 😎

View attachment 438778
zerominor,

Your photo seems to be of a cold start, ignition advance device.

For more info follow this link to "Motor Roam" website.
Motor Roam
 
Best pictures I could get
This is what the 2 tamper bolts went into and the solenoid with the wire
 

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