Technical Fiat 500 2012 Expansion tank Level

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Technical Fiat 500 2012 Expansion tank Level

Thanks for the link but I am too long in the tooth to be doing this myself, interesting to know where the bleed points are, I am sure the youngman at the dealership not the one in Chester that I bought it from but the one in Bolton listened to what I had to say and did the job properly, there is now no water loss and the climate control works as it should, as I said I would like to be sure that the Header tank or Expansion chamber whatever is filled to it's correct level and after so many conflicting answers I am not sure. Prior to trying to find out the correct level I would have topped it up to the full mark but
i also have trust in the young Mechanic who changed and bled the coolant. As I said the coolant is staying half way between the two marks. Thanks for your help I am off to bed now.
 
The garage have filled the coolant to halfway between the full mark and the low mark and that is where it stays until the car is used on returning from a journey the coolant is on the full mark
I take it I am the only one concerned about this ?

The coolant level is still fluctuating aprox 300ml

My fiats 1.2L have all work well and self bleed except when there’s gas or air entering the system
 
I don't think you should get to obsessed with this sammy. When it comes to worrying about fluid levels I always remember my Father-in-law who was an "office type person" - worked for an investment trust. Knew almost nothing "technical" about his car. When Mrs J and I got "serious" I was dragged back to meet the in laws. I was well into my studies to become a qualified motor mechanic and when he learned that, one of the first car related subjects he broached with me was about the radiator level on his Wolseley (BMC "B" series engine) He was puzzled about why it needed topped up so often. Turns out that every Saturday he would check his levels (as many folk did back in those days - 1960's) and it would take a pint or so every Saturday to bring the level back up. I got him to go out to the car with me and show me what he was doing. Turns out he was topping it up to the top of the radiator filler cap - No expansion tanks in those days. Of course the first time it got up to working temp it ejected the expanded volume of water past the pressure cap and for the rest of the week ran, as it should, with the level about a couple of inches below the top of the header tank. When he checked it cold again the next weekend, cold of course, he would see this drop in level and conclude it needed topped up! The insidious thing about what he was doing was that he was constantly diluting his antifreeze. he was very lucky he never ended up with a frozen engine in the winter. He was the same with his oil level. It had to be exactly on the full mark and he would add, literally, an egg cup full to bring it back to bang on the full mark.

If your coolant level is steady somewhere between the MAX and MIN marks when cold, and not constantly diminishing, you don't have a problem. Ideally, as has been pointed out above, it should be bang on the full mark (d'you know I've never actually read the owner's manual so it was news to me that the recommended level is to the MAX mark) I've done many water pumps, thermostats, hoses, and other coolant system related repairs on many different makes of car during my life and, basically, as long as there's coolant in the expansion tank when the engine is cold, you're not going to cause damage to the engine due to lack of coolant. Of course it's wise to have a reserve in case a slow leak develops hence the markings (MIN and MAX) on most expansion tanks. In practice the level would need to drop significantly below the MIN mark before you would be deeply in the Doo Doo! I'm very "happy" and sleep soundly as long as my level is between the marks and tending towards the MAX. The big thing is to always check your level when the engine is cold and that it doesn't drop below the MIN mark but even more important is that whatever the exact level is that it remains constant when checked. If it starts dropping then investigate immediately before it has a chance to suffer overheating and if you're normal level is on the MAX that just gives you a greater safety measure in hand?

By the way. it's not at all unusual for the level to take some time (maybe a week or a couple of hundred miles?) for the level to stabilize after being drained and refilled like this because there are often little bubbles of air trapped in the system which take a wee while to work their way out into the expansion tank.
 
I take it I am the only one concerned about this ?

The coolant level is still fluctuating aprox 300ml

My fiats 1.2L have all work well and self bleed except when there’s gas or air entering the system
Hi Koalar. I was composing the above before I read this post of yours. I agree with you that I've never noticed a big change in level between hot and cold on any of the several Pandas we've owned - not so sure about my boy's Punto, but no reason to expect it would be different. So, If sammy's level is significantly different between hot and cold, it would seem to say there may be air still trapped in the system? Or, less likely, and I'm playing "Devil's advocate" here, some other problem like head gasket etc? Might be worth getting a "sniff" test done if this situation persists?
 
Well today I have topped this header tank up to the max mark as suggested by Koalar { thank You } it took 140 ml of coolant so the capacity of the header tank is approx. 280mi between the max and min marks so 140mm is the amount that it rises from cold to hot. I would just like to point out that as I have said before that the car is not loosing water now the air lock has been fixed the heater works as it should, i jus needed to know what level the header tank should be filled to and Kolar has given the information alongside details on the bleeding method. Thanks to everyone who has responded.
 
Expansion of the coolant will be roughly 6%

There’s enough in the neck to cover this

I only check mine is max before I start the car

Being a new to you it’s best to keep an eye on fluids and pressures for the first few weeks. Listen for gurgling especially at start and shut off

From half to max was less than I expected. I had never measured it. In my head it was about the same as a drinks can. Obviously I was way out.

I still can’t believe a garage sold a car without checking the coolant level and heats are working

Fingers crossed you will have many happy years with your new car

Good luck and happy motoring
 
Expansion of the coolant will be roughly 6%

There’s enough in the neck to cover this

I only check mine is max before I start the car

Being a new to you it’s best to keep an eye on fluids and pressures for the first few weeks. Listen for gurgling especially at start and shut off

From half to max was less than I expected. I had never measured it. In my head it was about the same as a drinks can. Obviously I was way out.

I still can’t believe a garage sold a car without checking the coolant level and heats are working

Fingers crossed you will have many happy years with your new car

Good luck and happy motoring
Yes 140 ml is approx 5%, of the total, the car is not for me I am 84 and 6foot 3 inches tall, may have lost an inch by now, and the car is Gucci branded it does not quite fit in with my image, it is for my great great grandson who is not 17 until December ,will I drive it until then, not sure but it is a nice drive it is just that the steering wheel interferes with my knee when lifting of the accelerator and applying the brake. My car is a 25 year old Toyota Lucida Jap import, more in keeping with my age. Thanks again for your help.
 
My fiats 1.2L have all work well and self bleed except when there’s gas or air entering the system
Mine too.

I'd suggest leaving the bleeds well alone; they're plastic, fragile, and on a 10yr old car, all too likely to break if you try to loosen them. If you keep topping up to the max level when stone cold, the system will self bleed over a few cycles, after which the level should stabilise.

If it continues to fluctuate significantly, or needs topping up after 4-5 cycles, then there's a fault with the system which needs investigating and fixing. The 1.2 is likely to suffer HG failure if run low on coolant, and failure often occurs before the temperature gauge registers any overheat.

If you notice any loss of heater functionality when driving, stop immediately it is safe to do so and check the coolant level. Due to the risk of scalding, only remove the pressure cap if you know exactly what you are doing and have suitable PPE.

A tip - if the system is working normally and you need to drain and refill for any reason, measure what comes out, and you'll know what needs to go back in. Don't try or expect to get it all in on the first fill; just top up to the max and follow the hot/cold cycle and topup procedure.
 
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