Yes; but any leak would compromise the vacuum reservoir which in turn could cause issues for the overboost valve (which it supplies).
I'd say that was the cause of lack of power.
Technical EGR valve - remove, clean & modify.
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Technical EGR valve - remove, clean & modify.
I'd say that was the cause of lack of power.
john55
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I would agree if the leak was on the vacuum side of the control valve (which is round the back, next to the reservoir). If the leak was on the TB actuator itself, or the pipe between it and the control valve, it would not affect the running of the car.
john55
Established member
I am now thinking this hesitation problem may be caused by the MAP sensor being out of spec / intermittent. Basically the Overboost valve and EGR are actuated based on boost pressure. I am going to wire up an LED to my overboost valve so I can see exactly when it is actuating while I am driving, but I bet it is in time with the stuttering / loss of power.
I also unpluged my MAP sensor and the stutter completly disappeared. Power is down a lot and check engine light is on, but no stutter
I also unpluged my MAP sensor and the stutter completly disappeared. Power is down a lot and check engine light is on, but no stutter
just checking is the gasket classed as a recall item or just an optional extra?
I'm sure it's purely optional - and if I'm completely honest I can't really notice any difference worth shouting about.
I you don't notice a problem in the 1st place then I certainly wouldn't bother to fit it.
I you don't notice a problem in the 1st place then I certainly wouldn't bother to fit it.
didnt minimad get a HUGE improvement after cleaning the EGR and fitting new gasket?
I need to do this soon too
I need to do this soon too
Read his post again (it's in this thread)didnt minimad get a HUGE improvement after cleaning the EGR and fitting new gasket?
I need to do this soon too
If EGR is stuck open then you'll know about it all right (but not if stuck shut).
As long as it doesn't stick then you wont have a problem.
That was after reconnecting the vacuum supply (which he pulled off by mistake)
JTDs don't run very well when the VGT valve can't do its stuff
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as above, i don't the gasket made much difference. Cleaning of the EGR did though. I fitted the gasket to try and get rid of an annoying hesitance at about 3200rpm but it didn't work.
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Before you all flame me I know this is almost a 2 year old Thread... BUT it needs saying...
The swirl gasket is to prevent future carbon blockage not to fix any fault you may currently heve caused by carbon blockage.
The EGR needs serious & proper cleaning when it blocks up not a half ar$ed job... Preferably swap it, clean the old one properly & keep it as a spare so you're off the road for less time...
The swirl gasket is to prevent future carbon blockage not to fix any fault you may currently heve caused by carbon blockage.
The EGR needs serious & proper cleaning when it blocks up not a half ar$ed job... Preferably swap it, clean the old one properly & keep it as a spare so you're off the road for less time...
You can only block it by physical means.
Buy a better socket set and get some leverage
I used a decent Allen key set plus adjustable spanner (for leverage) on mine.
Buy a better socket set and get some leverage
I used a decent Allen key set plus adjustable spanner (for leverage) on mine.
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Before you all flame me I know this is almost a 2 year old Thread... BUT it needs saying...
The swirl gasket is to prevent future carbon blockage not to fix any fault you may currently heve caused by carbon blockage.
The EGR needs serious & proper cleaning when it blocks up not a half ar$ed job... Preferably swap it, clean the old one properly & keep it as a spare so you're off the road for less time...
Worth noting the faults with it are infact not caused by the coking up of the valve, but actually the ferrous core of the solenoid corroding and fusing the armature to the casing around the coil. As shown by my guide fixing this issue.
http://www.TorqueItalia.net/forum/threads/533-EGR-solenoid-reconditioning
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Fair comment B3NNETT, mine wasn't shorted or seized, it was just TOTALLY blocked up, it,s now running around in an Astra!
You can only block it by physical means.
Buy a better socket set and get some leverage
I used a decent Allen key set plus adjustable spanner (for leverage) on mine.
Is it necessary to remove the fuel filter assembly to get the clearance to remove the bolts?
What is the safe procedure to do so? I don't want to break any of those tubes along the way.
Pretty sure all I removed was the engine cover (you've seen post #4 I suppose)
Most important thing is NOT to drop anything as it's a pain if you have to remove the under-tray to recover stuff
I'll vouch for the not dropping stuff as on the grass at Stanford we managed to loose a bolt magically on mehstg's GP.
Luckily a replacement bolt and a million washers were found to fix it.
Not something you don't know, but ....
my stilo jtd multiwagon has had a bit of a stutter at 1800rpm thought i'd have a look at this egr valve thing took it off car stripped it down and it was completely full of black sooty crap, cleaned it all out with carb cleaner put it back together and it now works soo much better, it was getting really smokey on start up in the mornings but since cleaning the egr there's no smoke at all when engines cold. performance seems much better as well.
So did you also fit the swirl gasket (possible mpg improvements as per other thread :chin ?
?
