Technical Ducato fuel filter housing.

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Technical Ducato fuel filter housing.

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Oct 20, 2023
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south england
Hi all want to change fuel filter no issues but do not know when last changed.Now i've looked online at changeing just the filter,or buying complete unit.I know about leaks with not doing top up correctly,has anyone bought a complete unit off ebay the ones around £45 as the ufi ones are close to £100 ad filters around £15..any advise would be great
 
Think it’s the same filter or very similar on my 1.9 multijet that I did recently. Biggest problem I had was trying to figure out how the unit comes out but after messing about for a while realised it just lifts up with a bit of force. Just a couple of pipes with push in collars and an electrical connection on bottom if I remember. Then I clamped it LIGHTLY in a vice after wrapping it in rag and used a big pair of grips to get the big ring off
 
I could buy the lazer tool and filter for about the same price as getting the whole unit thats why i was sort of asking and if they were reliable..cheers you obviously did'nt have any leaks which is good.
 
No, i was a bit dubious as like you had read about leaks but wasn’t as bad as i thought. And i didn’t use any special tools, think filter was about £15 like you said. Don’t worry if the new filter looks slightly different as there’s a couple of different sorts but apparently all fit in the housing fine. I put some grease on the threads of the big plastic nut when I reassembled it as it made it easier to get the nut tight. Just make sure you take the housing off the car rather that trying to do it in situ as there has been some horror stories of stuff getting snapped off by trying to do it the quick way….especially as yours hasn’t been off for a while! Good luck
 
Hi all want to change fuel filter no issues but do not know when last changed.Now i've looked online at changeing just the filter,or buying complete unit.I know about leaks with not doing top up correctly,has anyone bought a complete unit off ebay the ones around £45 as the ufi ones are close to £100 ad filters around £15..any advise would be great
The design of the fuel filter used has changed several times over the years, with the first significant change being the introduction of the so called "green" filter on late x244 and x250 models. This filter has subsequently been replaced by a filter with a cast metal housing.
It would help if you included vehicle model, or type of filter to which you refer.

As regards the "green" filter, there is an excellent guide in the "Downloads" section, which is available at the top of the page.

The "green" filter developed a reputation for developing leaks after having the element changed. The links have been ascribed to not using the correct holding tool when servicing. Holding the filter in a vice is not recommended.
 
No, i was a bit dubious as like you had read about leaks but wasn’t as bad as i thought. And i didn’t use any special tools, think filter was about £15 like you said. Don’t worry if the new filter looks slightly different as there’s a couple of different sorts but apparently all fit in the housing fine. I put some grease on the threads of the big plastic nut when I reassembled it as it made it easier to get the nut tight. Just make sure you take the housing off the car rather that trying to do it in situ as there has been some horror stories of stuff getting snapped off by trying to do it the quick way….especially as yours hasn’t been off for a while! Good luck
Hi yes i've ordered tool £16.90 and a bosch filter got a mirror and torch out it is ufi and dated 2018 ! so rather have a new filter in that.i think 6 years is enough..im off to italy july so van needs to be in tip top condition.
 
Just had my 3rd failure of these plastic atrocities.
Is it possible there is too much pressure in the system?
After 24 hrs at the roadside - I removed and bypassed with a rubber fuel pipe and found it starts and works fine, despite the wiring being unplugged.
I will be fitting an inline filter asap.
Will th 20240422_182425.jpge engine suffer without the water detection/ diesel heating?
 
Oh that's bad ..my mates mate in france a few weeks ago exploded! emptied the tank..off the road for 2 weeks..there was a reply somewhere of the amount of pressure ..seems quite high, mine had no water in it owned for 2 years and prior to that was'nt changed not sure what top plug does? Was your's a ufi one? or a copy?
 
Just had my 3rd failure of these plastic atrocities.
Is it possible there is too much pressure in the system?
After 24 hrs at the roadside - I removed and bypassed with a rubber fuel pipe and found it starts and works fine, despite the wiring being unplugged.
I will be fitting an inline filter asap.
Will thView attachment 443779e engine suffer without the water detection/ diesel heating?
What was the actual failure? I suspect that the cover retaining ring fractured, but I am unable to confirm this from the photo
It would be interesting to know whether or not the filter element had been replaced.
If yes, the was the correct tool used, and was the correct fixing torque applied on reassembly?

It would not be a good idea to let water into hp pump, and injectors. The pump relies on the fuel for ludrication. Not sure what would happen with modern injectors. As the fuel is only heated to a maximum of 15C, I suspect that it is a precaution against fuel waxing at low ambient temperatures.
 
What was the actual failure? I suspect that the cover retaining ring fractured, but I am unable to confirm this from the photo
It would be interesting to know whether or not the filter element had been replaced.
If yes, the was the correct tool used, and was the correct fixing torque applied on reassembly?

It would not be a good idea to let water into hp pump, and injectors. The pump relies on the fuel for ludrication. Not sure what would happen with modern injectors. As the fuel is only heated to a maximum of 15C, I suspect that it is a precaution against fuel waxing at low ambient temperatures.
Hi, this was a complete unit (one of the £45 ebay ones - not a £100 oe) that I bought to avoid having to open and reseal.
It sprang a major leak about a month later - I took it apart, cleaned it up and GLUED it back together to get back on the road quick and stop the o ring from shifting again.
What you see in the photo is that it has pushed its lid clean out of the black collar. No cracks - it's just distorted the collar and squeezed out!
If anyone's thinking 'that'll teach you to buy non original parts' - I bought the cheap unit to replace an original one which sprang a leak spontaneously *after I'd owned the van 3 years) and failed its mot!
Is there a simple way to test the fuel system pressure?
 
That's a crazy failure. Don't run without a filter for any longer than absolutely necessary.

I think most problems are caused by over tightening than under tightening.

Check the return fuel line to tank is clear - blow through after removing fuel cap.

When you refuel is there a noticeable pressure release when you remove fuel cap?
 
Any extra pressure in the fuel tank is extra pressure in the fuel filter housing
I beg to differ. The lp fuel presure is regulated by a bypass valve integral with the in tank lift pump. The tank pressure is regulated by the cap, and can be either positive or slightly negative (partial vacuum).

eLearn gives the pump bypass valve operating pressure as 5 Bar, which converts to 72.5 Psi.
My all black "green" filter measures 90 mm or 3.5" immediately above the cover retaining ring. 9.62 square inches.
Multiplying this gives a force on the cap of 697 lbs, or about 317kg. Food for thought.
 
That's a crazy failure. Don't run without a filter for any longer than absolutely necessary.

I think most problems are caused by over tightening than under tightening.

Check the return fuel line to tank is clear - blow through after removing fuel cap.

When you refuel is there a noticeable pressure release when you remove fuel cap?
Thanks for those tips 👍
Never had any noticeable suction on removing the fuel cap.
Where should I blow back through the return line? Where it joins the pressure valve, presumably?
If the valve itself is at fault - I'd imagine it would resist less rather than more? If the internal spring weakens?
Best bet is to replace it I guess.
Fitting a generic metal inline filter for now until I can get my hands on the Fiat metal replacement filter bowl at a scrapyard. The wiring won't fit - but I'll do without.
Never going back to the plastic junk again.
 
I beg to differ. The lp fuel presure is regulated by a bypass valve integral with the in tank lift pump. The tank pressure is regulated by the cap, and can be either positive or slightly negative (partial vacuum).

eLearn gives the pump bypass valve operating pressure as 5 Bar, which converts to 72.5 Psi.
My all black "green" filter measures 90 mm or 3.5" immediately above the cover retaining ring. 9.62 square inches.
Multiplying this gives a force on the cap of 697 lbs, or about 317kg. Food for thought.
Hell's Bells! Gigantic pressure! 👀
I've read that there is a return valve under the bonnet somewhere that acts at 0.5 bar, though.
Is the valve on the tank pump just a last resort failsafe?
Why the heck would it operate at such huge pressure on what is meant to be a 'low pressure' system, though?
 
I beg to differ. The lp fuel presure is regulated by a bypass valve integral with the in tank lift pump. The tank pressure is regulated by the cap, and can be either positive or slightly negative (partial vacuum).

eLearn gives the pump bypass valve operating pressure as 5 Bar, which converts to 72.5 Psi.
My all black "green" filter measures 90 mm or 3.5" immediately above the cover retaining ring. 9.62 square inches.
Multiplying this gives a force on the cap of 697 lbs, or about 317kg. Food for thought.
Screenshot_20240423-115118.png
 
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