Technical Bought a mk2 x-reg - few issues

[h2ypr]

Hi guys

Picked up a punto Mia x reg 1.2 8v in good condition inside an out.

Few issues I would like some advice on?

1. Tape blaupunkt radio - no power? Fuse or radio?
2. Clicking from drivers door - seen FAQ and new check required - best place?
3. Rattling from the rear - might be exhaust - can hear rumble on idle - any ideas?
4. On/off power delivery? Part throttle seems better than full? Map sensor needing cleaned or throttle body?
5. Any guide on putting all the tools into the foam holder correctly?
6. Wiper linkage snapped on motorway. What's the best way to fix? Passenger side still working. Is there clips you can buy?

Thanks very much for your time.

Ross

 

[Scudmonkey]

i cant help with all of those...but...
https://www.fiatforum.com/punto-mk2...-check-strap-replacement-mk2-2b-easy-way.html
Rattling from the rear is easy to ckeck by looking under the car if it does it when idling, exhaust pipe hits the suspension which causes the rattling. best way to fix the wiper mechamism is probably to replace it.

 

[Scudmonkey]

Toolkit is also easy...quick search on google and look for images...
https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=f...hUHtRQKHVogDKkQ_AUIBygC#imgrc=xUk33d3fPt4QlM:

 

[h2ypr]

Thanks for the help.

Spent a bit of time reading up about the linkage. I'll try an pop it on today and secure it with a cable tie. I've ordered the repair clips as well

Toolkit - never even thought of Google last night. Doh!! Thanks.

Rattle at back - it sounds like it's the exhaust hitting the suspension. If it is, I'll tie it away from it with a cable tie to see if the noise disappears. If so, I'll get my local garage to repair the broken bracket or weld a small support on.

Is there a fuse diagram somewhere? I've bought a fascia kit for £6 on eBay, so hopefully if radio I'll just replace the fuse until I replace with a spare stereo. If not, I'll just replace.

 

[h2ypr]

Ok - fuse 39 is radio. And it's fine. So unless there is a fuse on the back of the stnd radio, it's broken. Picked up my old alpine unit from my parents - time to get my thinking cap on as to how to connect it all up again!! Lol.

Had the issue with the handbrake light coming on while driving. Topped up brake fluid and it went away.

Noticed quite a bit of oil at the back of the engine. I've done about 100 miles in the car so far and got a wee smell of burning oil when I got out the car. It's all down the back of the engine, for example the alternator is covered. But it's a really thin smearing and looks like fresh oil. Any ideas? Breather was pretty wet but suppose that's normal any ways. Topped the oil up as it had dropped below the min on the dipstick. I'm gonna order a rocker cover and coil pack seal. Planning on removing the throttle body for cleaning anyways so might as well check those deals while I'm there.

My temporary wiper fix is still working and due to the Scottish weather id say 90 of the 100 miles have been in the driving rain and it's still working. The repair clips be here this week and ill fit them.

Defo flat spot/misfire when accelerating. No rev counter on my punto so guessing around 4K based on engine note. Hoping this is connected to over Rev on hear change and over sensitive throttle. Hoping throttle body clean and grease will sort that.

Not had chance to explore noise from back but slight blow from exhaust so may take it to local friendly garage to get a look while it's on the ramp.

Any help with oil leak or throttle issues appreciated.

 

[atom0007]

You've got the usual oil leak culprits covered.

You sometimes get oil down there when oil has been added carelessly during servicing. Also check down spark plug hole 1.

Just bite the bullet anr get a new wiper set. All the bushes eventually wear out anyway. Then coat ball joints on linkage with lithium grease.

 

[h2ypr]

Thanks for the reply.

I've spent some time today and cab update some information.

1. Wiper linkage - fitted the repair clip to the damaged linkage (had to remove as too hard in situ) and works a treat tbh. My cable ties were still holding strong, but prefer to do the permanent repair.

2. Switched the radio out and the fuse on the back was ok. I've read online of broken buttons stopping it switching on but I'm not going to investigate. PITA getting the fascia to fit but Ziggy (who's posts have been really useful when checking possible issues) posted about filing down the edges so the clips fit in easier. Worked a treat.



Both speakers working although I'm going to hunt for spares cause they sound woeful! I've got an old sub and amp somewhere in gonna dig out and use as well.

3. Oil down the back of the engine. With the air box off (which is all melted at the front which is one of the weirdest things I've ever seen) it looks like the rocker cover is leaking actually at the back. Basically in line with the throttle body a section of about 3-5 inches long. I'll replace the gasket another day as I was more keen to see the results of my throttle body clean.

4. Flat spots and over-revving/sticking throttle. Cleaned the throttle body thoroughly but in all honestly wasn't that bad to begin with. Made no difference to the performance of the car, probably sticking worse now tbh - need some advice. From what I've read it's the TPS that's at fault here. Change of throttle body probably the way forward but could it be anything else?

5. The massive hole in the front of the air box. I've seen people drill holes in the airbox to increase airflow but this is honestly like the front of the engine has went on fire and melted all the plastic at the front of the airbox right off. I'm surmising 1 of 2 scenarios. The airbox was removed for an induction kit or the like and while off the car was accidentally melted. The airbox was replaced from another car which was melted. There is no evidence that this car has suffered any fire damage at all.

I have a slight blow in my backbox but apart from that the only running issue is the flat spots and when you release the throttle the revs continue to rise or don't drop.

Anything else that could be other than TPS? Can I disconnect the TPS to see if it runs better?

Thanks for all your help on this thread or on the many others that I've read.

 

[h2ypr]

Been thinking about this and wondering.

I think I have a faulty earth. When I start the car the lights dim, the display flickers and the fuel gauge drops. But once it's started it runs fine. Occasionally when you brake, with lights and heaters on, everything dims. I think the main earth cable (or another one) needs replaced or regrounded. I remember on the cinq this was needed and made a difference. Now, if I have running problems, it could be connected to a ground problem? I'm gonna takeoff the gearbox ground firstly and take it from there.

 

[h2ypr]

Not had a chance to take the ground off yet but established that if I remove the bolt for the wing that is in line with the positive terminal, the ground connection under that is suitable for a ground strap.

I got a replacement throttle body off eBay and will fit that soon to see if that fixes my running problem.

Been fixing little things recently. Got parcel shelf second hand and interior cover on the rear pillar above the rear seats. Also got new visors for £8 delivered which included a broken clip I needed. So car really starting to get back to a complete car.

Still need to sort the seat flipping forward lever on both seats and the oil leak at the back of the engine. It's weeping from o ring and rocker cover. I think cause the car was lying for a while the breather was blocked but under hard acceleRation on a dual cArriageWAY it released and fired oil all over the engine. No issues since.

I'll report back today once I've changed over the throttle body.

 

[h2ypr]

Cleaned the maf and appears to have made a significant difference. No over revving on gear change. Idle appears to still be sitting high (no rev counter on a mia) but if I raise the clutch slowly it forces the revs down and then I'm able to drop the clutch and hear the normal revs. It's like the difference between maybe siting at 1200 instead of say 800?

 

[h2ypr]

Ok. Maf cleaning improved throttle response. No more touching the pedal and it shooting off. Just need to get to the idle sorted.

Banging from rear isn't exhaust. It must be rear arms. Need to get it on a ramp.

Very little oil leaking as I can't see any on my drive. Must be the rocker and o-ring which I plan to change Thursday.

Idle issues are it over revving on idle and running a bit lumpy. Need to change the plugs and replace the airbox and filter.

Boot seal leaking and oxidisation on rear earth connector. I think the lights dimming is the passenger rear light. Think the connectors must be whack. When turning the ignition on you can hear the fuel pump. But it you press the brake pedal you can hear it struggling. Lol.

Gonna take the rear lights off an check.

 

[h2ypr]

Ok. Been busy so just been running it about without fixing it.

Ok. Had to change thermostat as very cool air while driving about. Could hardly see. First issue was the bleeding fiat clips. Lol. 2 jubilee clips and 2 litre of concentrated coolant and topped up with water. The old thermostat had no internals to it at all which was strange.

After I bled the system (PITA) I realised the fan wasn't kicking in. Removed the battery to disconnect the temp sensor and put the battery back in still wasn't working. Checked the fuses and relay and all present. Disconnected the fan and tested the fan directly and works fine. Reconnect the fan and switched 2 relays round. The injector ones and the fan one. I let it get up to temp and it finally kicked in. I think because the previous thermo stay was broken it never got up to temp and the fan hadnt kicked in for so long it was potentially stuck. So when I connected it directly maybe it released it. That's my best guess as I didn't replace anything.

After that I switched my throttle body over. Cleaned the map again and no difference. Revs still sticking. Changed the air filter. No difference. Removed the multi earth connector just in front of the battery. Blue and red on it. I cleaned it and rubbed it down with a wire brush on the outside and with a toothbrush on the inside. Didn't make any difference. Fuel gauge dial still drops when starting and lights dull when I brake. I cleaned the earth point at the top of the gearbox. No difference. Need to get into the multi one in the boot again and clean that. I think the rear light where the seal is leaking maybe corroded on the inside causing the issue with the Earth. Need to check the other earth points. Got a mate who's an auto electrician so that's last resort.

Couple of questions if anyone is still reading.

1. Think it's worth changing the coil pack to see if this sorts the issue with revs not dropping and surging?
2. The oil leak is pretty bad. I've not changed the rocker cover and o ring yet as I want to see if I can sort the running issues first. Is there anywhere else that is bad for leaks?
3. There was a lot of mayo in the oil cap. Does this mean head gasket or could it just be because of all the wet weather and short journeys I've been doing? When I dropped the coolant there was no evidence of oil in the coolant.
4. I had the occasional starting issue with the really cold weather up here. Both times it seemed as if the power went away from the starter/dash and then it surged back to allow it to start. Code light flashed. I'm thinking this is related to my earthing issue?

Thank for your time.

Also I have read lots of threads about changing all sorts of bits on the car. Just wanted to thank anyone who made a guide for the mk2 and special mention to ziggy who I seem to always find his advice and it leads me in the right direction.

 

[atom0007]

I would check the compression. Revs not right and lots of mayo might be a warning. Are you talking teaspoons full, plus may on dipstick? Don't change coil pack, you're wasting time and money.

 

[h2ypr]

Hi mate.

Cheers for reply. I've got a compression tester and it crossed my mind tbh. No mayo on dipstick and none in coolant so I doubt it's head gasket tbh.

I'll maybe get the compression test done tomorrow and see what it tells me.

Thanks

 

[core]

The main areas your engine can leak will be rocker cover, sump, camshaft oil seal, under coilpack and crankshaft oil seal. Sometimes an oil filter can leak if not tight or if old and the same can be said for the oil drain sump plug.

Oil can also leak from you gearbox diff or driveshafts on the left and right side.

 

[core]

Post up a video of all your concerns.

 

[h2ypr]

Thanks for all the help.

Here's what's been happening.

When I put the car under full throttle, it starts to stutter midrange (no rev counter) and then lots and lots of white/blue smoke fires out the back of the car!! If this was a turbo id say oil seals on turbo leaking. But it's an na so presumably this is an internal engine issue. Add up the revs sticking, rough idle and occasional stutter midrange and I think it could be terminal.

I've just started the car this morning and heavy oil deposits when left idling from the exhaust.

Is there anyway this could be not expensive?

Also options - if it's the valve stems or the piston rings that would show on a compression test? I won't get a chance to do one until tomorrow but what's the best way to inhibit fuel into the system? Is there a fuse I can pull? Also if it is the above, am I better with a good second hand engine or worth getting someone to open this one up first to check how bad it is?

Appreciate all the help.

 

[flisko]

i think piston rings would show on compression test, dunno about valve stems
car smokes everytime your start it first time?

 

[h2ypr]

Not overly. I gave it some beans on route to work today but car was idling for a while to clear the screen. No issues. It's maybe a seal (HG?) that sorts itself once it's up to temp? Plenty of hot air on route to work and no oil in coolant still.

Apart from compression test, anything. Else I can check? The car is leaking oil but I'm not looking to fix that until I work out this issue. It's fresh oil on drive, nice brown colour as it's been topped up a lot.

 

[h2ypr]

Ok done a cold compression test today. Changed the spark plugs at the same time as had new ones sitting waiting. No difference to idle or revs sticking.




First pic is spark plug condition and then corresponding compression test. Results from 1-4.

All low so I'm thinking head gasket. Started easier with new plugs and no oil on plugs etc. So Questions.

Can I get away without skimming the head the fact that all the compressions are lower? Am I better changing timing belt and water pump at the same time?

Thanks everyone