Hi I have been meaning to post about this, but the problem comes and goes. I have a flat spot when driving. It mainly happens at higher speeds, and doesn't really affect the overall drive as it only lasts for half a second or so. The best way to describe it is that it feels like a momentary jab on the brakes, and then returns to normal, half a second later. I have no troubles starting, and it idles and accelerates without problems. There are no fault codes recorded.
Any ideas would be greatly appreciated
Chrissib

Start with basics, fuel filter etc
Remove egr valve and clean out, remove MAP sensor and clean off.
Check turbo boost solenoid vacuum pipes, any split or the slightest leak of vacuum will cause loss of turbo power.
Try a fuel system cleaner or just use a tank full of v power shell fuel.(some people wil disagree with me about shell fuel but it's my preference)
What mileage has she done.??

its done 131000 miles, and now it conked out altogether.
Driving normally and then jut got very lumpy and then gradually the revs got less, and then stopped. It turns over and tries to run, but dies again. Suspect fuel, so fuel filter may be a good shout. I've never changed it so I'll start here, unless any other suggestions.

chrissib said:

Hi I have been meaning to post about this, but the problem comes and goes.
There are no fault codes recorded.

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chrissib said:

its done 131000 miles, and now it conked out altogether.
any other suggestions.

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Now the problem is permanent, check the fault codes again.
.

No codes... Have changed the fuel filter. Car started for a few seconds, then died again. I have looked at all the pipes and they appear to be ok, although there are 1 in and 2 outs from the filter housing, and even more connected to a black pod, all of which I don't know what any of these are for. Is there any way I can check that there is fuel getting to the injectors?
I turned the key with one of the outlet pipes disconnected and saw fuel there. I assume this mean fuel is leaving the filter ok. Also one of the pipes leaving the filter connect to a unit which looks as though it is being driven by the cam belt, which has confused me a little as I was getting fuel leaving the filter with out the engine running.
It still looks like fuel starvation somewhere to me, has anyone got a suggestion, maybe a method of testing or something. Appreciate any help.

............been reading a lot on here, about EGR blanking, Crankshaft sensors, and MAF sensors, but these mostly relate to poor running.
I just tried the car again after leaving for about an hour or so, checked codes again, still none. But the car started again, first turn, ran for about 10 seconds, then died again.
So surely this proves there is fuel reaching the injectors doesn't it. And surely this proves the fuel lines, or I'm sure it wouldn't start at all.
I'm now thinking in terms of control, maybe too much or not enough...
Any thoughts please?

From your description I would blank the EGR cost nothing takes about 20 minutes, so worth a try.
I had two Stilo’s 450,000 miles between them the only real problems I had with the engines was EGR and crank sensor on both cars, so great engine’s.

EGR cost nothing takes about 20 minutes

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ok thanks, I've ordered a crankshaft sensor.

While I'm waiting for that, you mentioned EGR blanking off not costing anything, that would assume I can do this now. So what do I need to do?

chrissib said:

While I'm waiting for that, you mentioned EGR blanking off not costing anything, that would assume I can do this now. So what do I need to do?

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The no cost option involves making your own blanking plate from either an old tin can (temporary for test purposes) or a piece of 1 or 2 mm steel or aluminium sheet. You can fit the plate to either end of the corrugated pipe leading to the EGR valve. There's a metal 'crush' gasket there, so theoretically, you would need to fit one gasket each side of the plate, however I have the Fiat approved three holed swirl plate fitted on one of my JTDs without any gaskets and it doesn't leak.

Alternatively, you can buy a ready made blanking plate for £3.99 posted. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FIAT-PUNT...183554?hash=item33b3482bc2:g:EooAAOSwyjBW5BBz

If you have an 8 valve JTD engine, the blanking plate may trigger a P0404 fault code but does no put a warning light on the dash. If it's a 16 valve JTD, it triggers the fault code and a warning light, and may set the ECU to limp home mode.

Diagram below is for the 8 valve swirl plate. The 16 valve plate is a different shape.
.

I guess I'll visit my workshop and get making. Bit confused though,

three holed swirl plate

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why has a 'blanking plate' got holes in it?

16 valve JTD, it triggers the fault code and a warning light, and may set the ECU to limp home mode.

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...and why would I want to send the car into limp home mode?

chrissib said:

I guess I'll visit my workshop and get making. Bit confused though, why has a 'blanking plate' got holes in it?

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A blanking plate does not have holes in it (other than the bolt holes), as shown in the eBay link I posted above which is for the 8 valve engine. Only the Fiat and Bosch approved swirl plate has holes in the centre of it.

chrissib said:

...and why would I want to send the car into limp home mode?

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You don't want to send the car into limp home mode, but that's what can happen if you fit a blanking plate to a 16 valve engine. The advanced emissions diagnostics in the 16 valve engine ECU can detect that the EGR valve is blocked, so triggers a fault code, and may set the car into limp home mode.

As you've queried the 16 valve version, I assume that's what engine you have, in which case this is the blanking plate for the 16 valve engine. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/STAINLESS...691379?hash=item20ddd536b3:g:D9QAAOSwPhdU~vej
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Ok I think I have got the wrong sensor. Followed pictures and post from the forum, and tried to upload a picture followed from the forum post, but I don't know how.
However, I have managed to attach a picture of what I think is my sensor, in the same place as the picture in the forum, and it's different.



this is taken from the underneath of the car, right underneath the starter motor.
Can anyone confirm this IS the crankshaft sensor, or am I looking in the wrong place?
Chris

further to my last post, could still do with verifying this is the crankshaft sensor....but a new development.

Thinking logically, if the crankshaft sensor was faulty, I tried disconnecting the plug to see if the symptoms changed. With the lead off, the car should have started and died 10 seconds later, if the sensor was faulty, but the car didn't fire at all. This makes me think the sensor is ok.... so back to the drawing board again.

is there any other ideas?

chrissib said:

further to my last post, could still do with verifying this is the crankshaft sensor....but a new development.

Thinking logically, if the crankshaft sensor was faulty, I tried disconnecting the plug to see if the symptoms changed. With the lead off, the car should have started and died 10 seconds later, if the sensor was faulty, but the car didn't fire at all. This makes me think the sensor is ok.... so back to the drawing board again.

is there any other ideas?

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I'm not an expert on JTDs but I'm fairly certain that is the crank sensor.

Without the crank sensor connected the engine shouldn't run at all.

Without the crank sensor connected the engine shouldn't run at all

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...so the fact that it starts and runs with the cable connected (albeit for 10 seconds), and not at all when the connector is off, suggests to me the crankshaft sensor is alright then, do you agree?

chrissib said:

...so the fact that it starts and runs with the cable connected (albeit for 10 seconds), and not at all when the connector is off, suggests to me the crankshaft sensor is alright then, do you agree?

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Not necessarily.

I know yours is diesel but on a petrol, if the sensor is faulty you can start the engine but then it acts rough or cuts out and won't restart once it's warmed up! So check voltages on the sensor and try a new one or good working one if you can

my other 2003 stilo jtd had the same symtons as yours but never conked out, i found it was the brake light switch activated by the break pedel which i presume is linked or wired to the engine managment system, i only found out this was the problem when the car was ticking over on my drive way and went to get something out the boot and saw the rear brake lights flashing on and off on there own, fitted a new switch problem sorted

ok I have changed the crankshaft sensor, and remove the EGR assembly and cleaned that also. The fuel filter was changed earlier, so now I'm fresh out of ideas.

can I trouble you experts to suggest something else I can try.

I think when you use the brake pedal this also reduces the engine revs as well as activating the brake light switch So if the brake light switch is faulty it can reduce the engine for a couple of seconds. This was happening to my
s tilo on duel carr age ways at 50 to 70 mph I didn't no what was going on. Try replacing the brake light switch it won't cost more than £10

Had an expert look at it today, sprayed eazystart into the engine, and its blowing straight back again. He thinks the timing is out, so instead of the fuel being sucked into the engine on the compression stroke, the wrong valves are open, blowing the fuel back out.
Too late tonight, so checking the cam belt in the morning for 'teeth' missing or stretched or broken...
in the mean time if anyone knows how to check the timing I would appreciate a quick run through. And a belt change procedure etc..
Thanks..