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Panda (Classic) My Sisley, Panda 4x4 - division north

Introduction

As mentioned before, I'm starting new thread for my recent purchease.
Bought it from forum user, deposit was place without seeing the car first, went all the way down south with rest of the cash and A-frame in boot.

First summary of the car is ( 1 is very poor, 10 is perfect):

  • Originality - 6,
  • Bodywork - 7,
  • Engine - 6,
  • Gearbox - 5,
  • Interior - 5,
  • Structural rust - 8,
  • Visible rust - 8,
  • Previous owners maintain - 7
Plan for the car is to keep it road worthy and in good mechanical nick, join Panda 4x4 UK club and have some play with other Northern forum members.

As it is now, I'm not willing to make any statement what needs to be done as I had only spend about 2h last week by checking and looking at the car in more details way.

That is my bigger worry for now - bloody milky coolant and a bit of mayo under the oil cap.

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How can I confirm my head gasket theory not having coolant presure test kit???
@CLS - your not the only one - aparently it is bloody hard to buy cheepo 4x4 without blown thru head gasket.

The rest of the engine bay seems to be fine,
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Did somebody in here mentioned a black silicone gunk as a fast repair?
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Interior as you can expect from car been used on a farm
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Not the geniune steering wheel and speedo, which does not make much difference to me at all. Roofrack presence evidence
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I dont want to know how this happened.
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Filler pipe still untouched, what sort of DIY protections do you recon?
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And time for the bad boy
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Is that gap between the propshaft and diff is normall?
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Dear FFCP section members, any comments, suggestions and observation are more than welcome, especcialy regards the 4x4 drive train i.e. leaks etc.
Passed!

Well chuffed this year.
Few advisories here and there, rust hasn't been metioned.
One of steering rack ends have play in, but this might be the answer why car pulls gently to the left. Spare rack will be fitted unless I can source cheap ends. Longer ones ideally would be fine.
 
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I knew that Panda 4x4 Parts Hoard will be usefull source of spares.
Just reminded myself about pair of NOS Delphi rack ends already in unit, no need to go on ebay.
 
Front reg been properly mounted today with five screws, below you can see comparison between the old 'analog' dealer stamp and new digital one.

I know it's not the same but still looks original.
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As mentioned yesterday, steering rack been work on today.
Freshly removed faulty rack- bottom, my spare rack - top, and a pair of NOS delphi rack ends.
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MOT inspector was absolutely right spotting the play in inner tie-rod, as something was playing in there.

The inner tie-rods were still the original ones and the n/s had no play at all.
It was the rack end - worn n/s bushes - clear result of my tie-rod ends clearance testing.
Spare rack fitted, toe-in set at the maximum - definately better feel and the 'floating' steering wheel effect is no longer there.
 
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Slowly getting there...


Jerky idle, recent mixture issues and floating revs while the car bounce was caused by engine been left at an angle.
I'd fitted 4mm spacers to the g/box / engine lower/upper mounting point and left it like that so looks like the fuel level in float chamber was disturber and spring loaded ball on needle valve was unable to cope with new conditions.


As the whole front susp settled down since last springs removal, camber was checked and adjusted as well as front wheel alignment.


Manoeuvring seems to be a bit harder but car behaves much better, keeps in straight line in neutral, during acceleration and braking.
 
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I'm in process of sorting out next batch of 866 camshafts (6 pcs).

This time I will modify one to work with mechanical fuel pump, if results will be worth the hassle second will be moded for other panda.

Does anyone know decent Weber jets supplier?
 
After recently failed ford crossing the whole interion was stripped out, apart fromt the front sound deathing mould of hard bitumen and felt. A lot of water/moisture still trapped there so it will have to go out. 1/3 from left side is already separate as it cut along during n/s sill's job.
To get the rest in one piece I think the hole pedal box and steering colum must be removed, sounds bit time consuming so does anyone found any alternative sound deathing solution for this piece? Would the dyna-mat stuff applied to bulkhead provide save level of noise cancelation?

Me driving Hybrid car
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I think we might be driving in ear defenders next weekend.
The ammount of water trapped under the hard insulation was way over drying capabilities of current weather .

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Pedal bax bolts were slackened to remove the insilation.
As Andy B. sugested, clearly direct ingress poin of all sort of crap.
This will be sealed off using som proper stuff.
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Actual insulation, currently in three sections.
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Some tought was already put into how to reduce the noise inside the cabin, I've found decent place which have full range of sound/vibration deading products.

The most important improvement will be using water resistant ( water absorption <1%) and it's not going to be flashing tape! Alocated budget £40 max £50 for whole car - but that after NYM&C weekend, watch this space.

So far the old one will go back temporarily with second carpet on the top.
 
I've managed to drive on to the ramps for usual damage assessment and overall health check.

Observations:
1. Few dents on the sump guard plate.
2. Some evidence that my diff centre plate guard does actually works.

Results:
Pass, with minor marks.

Conclusion:
Win, win.
 
Finaly done some rear shocks fabrication.



From top:
- std 4x4,
-std 2wd,
- modified Niva Delphi oil/gas shock,
- fiat 1300 estate oil shock, unfortunately damage during eyelet welding process.

Curently pair of new gas 2wd shocks is fitted but they will be swaped for the Niva shocks. Bottom sleeve and eyelet of old 4x4 shocks were removed fand re-used as I didn't wanted to damage this pair either.

Niva shocks are a bit stiffer, therefore road handling should improve, stroke is approx. 20mm biger and they are 35mm longer in fully extended position.

Hope fild trails will bring positive results and rear axle flex will be increased.
 
4x4 are 6cm shorter than 2wd with omega axle{cars from 86...2003} and 2cm shorter than 2wd with leaf springs{80-86}
 
My new moded Niva gas/oil shocks, first road trials finished with positive results.
Less body roll on fast corners, no rea end saging after longer rides.
Bit stiffer but still comfty.

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Bottom cup from old 4x4 shock has been re-used.
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I may consider enlarging the bump stop or adding 20mm on the top of leaf spring cup as bottoming out on to the shock might reduce their lifespam.
 
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In preparation for upcomming event i've done oil and filter change - oil was black as f#ck!!!
15W40 in definately too tick - even in summer temp.
Considering swaping Panda to fully synthetic as i keep bulk stock for Subaru 4k miles intervals but it is 5w40.

Had a closer look on to the skid plate - it does briliant work.
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Hi all,
I'm in process of fabricating new seat frames for new bucket seats. Plan is to use current runners and mounting points.
Had a closer look and few trials in order to find correct position.
Can some one please confirm that when you seat comfy behind steering wheel is your body longitudinal vertical axis perfectly line-up with steering wheel centre?
Mine current sisley seats seem to be 10-15 mm off-set to the outside. I'm I correct or it is only me and my spine?
 
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