General Trolley jack

[Yolanda]

I've concocted this. A sturdy piece of timber with a hard rubber bush fastened to it that fits nice and tight into the hole in the jack where the saddle goes so the wood stays put. The whole lot goes under the rear axle beam to spread the load when jacked up.

 

[fourbie]

I've concocted this. A sturdy piece of timber with a hard rubber bush fastened to it that fits nice and tight into the hole in the jack where the saddle goes so the wood stays put. The whole lot goes under the rear axle beam to spread the load when jacked up.View attachment 404702View attachment 404705View attachment 404706View attachment 404707

Looks good.

 

[Pugglt Auld Jock]

I've concocted this. A sturdy piece of timber with a hard rubber bush fastened to it that fits nice and tight into the hole in the jack where the saddle goes so the wood stays put. The whole lot goes under the rear axle beam to spread the load when jacked up.View attachment 404702View attachment 404705View attachment 404706View attachment 404707

Looks good to me too. I'm keeping my eyes open for a suitable piece of wood now.

 

[fourbie]

Looks good to me too. I'm keeping my eyes open for a suitable piece of wood now.

My woody sold me wood that has a high strength certificate - meant nowt to me. It was 3"x2". I found that the wood slightly bent with the 3" horizontal so I used 2 off 3" making 3"x4". The 3" was then vertical and I got the best of its strength.

 

[Pugglt Auld Jock]

My woody sold me wood that has a high strength certificate - meant nowt to me. It was 3"x2". I found that the wood slightly bent with the 3" horizontal so I used 2 off 3" making 3"x4". The 3" was then vertical and I got the best of its strength.

Thanks. I've just remembered I've got a length of "T" profiled steel in the workshop which would do the job very nicely and I could weld fixings to it easily so making it very strong. If it all works out I'll post a wee picture of the result - maybe in a month or so because there's other "stuff" pending which has priority.

 

[fourbie]

Thanks. I've just remembered I've got a length of "T" profiled steel in the workshop which would do the job very nicely and I could weld fixings to it easily so making it very strong. If it all works out I'll post a wee picture of the result - maybe in a month or so because there's other "stuff" pending which has priority.

I wanted to use steel but the cost of getting it put me off and the wood was peanuts. Also it weighs a bit less.

 

[Yolanda]

For that little bit of extra height I run the car onto these to give me about another 2 inches. There especially useful for my other car which sits quite low.

 

[DaveMcT]

I tried a 6 x 2 timber between jack and rear axle. The timber just bends and offers no support to the vulnerable axle twist beam. I screwed and glued a second 6 x 2 alongside the first to stiffen the thing. It still bends under load but is probably good enough.

HOWEVER - its such a pain in the arse to align and centre, there's zero point to using it. The wood from mine got used on a house DIY job.

Put the jack under the end of the swing arm and lift up fully. Put axle stand under sill (with wood protection) and repeat the other side. Side 2 is quicker, because its wheel is almost off the floor anyway. If you really want to go higher, put a spacer between jack and suspension swing arm.

It's a non - problem. The timber beam (or even a steel beam) offers no added benefit.

 

[fourbie]

For that little bit of extra height I run the car onto these to give me about another 2 inches. There especially useful for my other car which sits quite low.View attachment 404754View attachment 404755

I drive on to these - the red motorcycle lifts.
They can be jacked up too.
They are rated at half a tonne.

 

[Pugglt Auld Jock]

I tried a 6 x 2 timber between jack and rear axle. The timber just bends and offers no support to the vulnerable axle twist beam. I screwed and glued a second 6 x 2 alongside the first to stiffen the thing. It still bends under load but is probably good enough.

HOWEVER - its such a pain in the arse to align and centre, there's zero point to using it. The wood from mine got used on a house DIY job.

Put the jack under the end of the swing arm and lift up fully. Put axle stand under sill (with wood protection) and repeat the other side. Side 2 is quicker, because its wheel is almost off the floor anyway. If you really want to go higher, put a spacer between jack and suspension swing arm.

It's a non - problem. The timber beam (or even a steel beam) offers no added benefit.

Yes Dave. I've been thinking about this and realize that I think it's the idea of being able to jack the whole thing up in one go which appeals. We had a hydraulic beam which fitted across our 4 poster in the garage - used mainly by the MOT tester - which allowed this to be done. However now I think about it I've been jacking up one side, slipping a stand under and then jacking the other side for so long now it's really not a problem and takes very little time to do. On the other hand that length of "T" section beam is not being used for anything I might just make one for the sake of making one? I actually "acquired" it to make an engine support beam out of it for when I'm doing timing belts but then realized I've been putting a thick piece of marine ply and my trolley jack under the sump to take the weight for many years and, in fact, realized it's easier and quicker to adjust the height of the engine this way - for instance when trying to reach engine mount bolts or wiggling bits of engine mount around to maneuver them out past obstructions. So, on reflection, I think I may just leave it leaning against the wall where it is now!

 

[DaveMcT]

I have an "Eazy Rizer" fork type motorcycle lift. It uses a vertical post that carries a sliding fork. It's raised/lowered by a long screw thread. You "can" do it with a socket ratchet but a half decent power drill is better. Two similar items (one each side of the car) would give you a 1/2 height post type car lift.

 

[fourbie]

I have an "Eazy Rizer" fork type motorcycle lift. It uses a vertical post that carries a sliding fork. It's raised/lowered by a long screw thread. You "can" do it with a socket ratchet but a half decent power drill is better. Two similar items (one each side of the car) would give you a 1/2 height post type car lift.

I love it but I have two reservations. One is the sometime $1000 price per item but the worst is that you still have to go from side to side and lift the car in stages I believe.

My problem with my motorbike lifts that I use to lift the car - at the wheels - is they don't take well to heavier weight and even though they will lift half a tonne each a drill won't work and even an impact air wrench struggles. For the first 40 turns I use a 51cm ratchet wrench!

My reason for persevering with them is that they start almost flat especially as I have the nasty habit of driving right off ramps.

 

[DaveMcT]

I'm not suggesting the bike lift (or a pair of them) should be used under the car. They dont even lift vertically. However some steelwork and some thought could make a two part foldable pair that work like a low level post lift. If you dont have the skills to make one you probably dont have the knowledge to do it safely. A torque multiplier will allow a smaller power drill to lift the weight. Use one on each post.

 

[fourbie]

I'm not suggesting the bike lift (or a pair of them) should be used under the car. They dont even lift vertically. However some steelwork and some thought could make a two part foldable pair that work like a low level post lift. If you dont have the skills to make one you probably dont have the knowledge to do it safely. A torque multiplier will allow a smaller power drill to lift the weight. Use one on each post.

They lift at a tilt do they?

The idea is great and I will modify anything.

 

[DaveMcT]

The Easy Riser bike lift is like a static fork truck. The mast leans back so the load gets placed over the arms of the base. It works a treat with a bike, but to do the same on a car would need a massive structure. A car needs two vertical posts, each with lifting screws, power and torque multipliers. You'd need space and some serious metalwork.