Technical Spark plugs, some advise for beginner

[Gandalf500]

Hi there

I'm attempting to replace a couple of spark plugs. But am finding it trickier than i thought it would be.

Main issue I'm finding is when I'm tightening the new spark plug, either the spark plug or the socket i'm using feels like it's getting stuck in the hole the plug goes into.
So I'll tighten the plug by hand as much as i could and then tighten a bit further with the socket. But then the socket will be stuck in the hole. I'll have to untighten it to get the socket out.
Below is the a pic of the plug i was working on. I got it in somewhat tight, at least i couldn't feel any play in the plug. Engine started okay and seemed to run okay. for the 30 seconds i had it on. Sounded okay as well.

I also noted when i untightened the old plug it would get loose and then get tight again. so not like a regular screw where it's smooth or the tightness gets progressively tighter, it would tighten up and loosen a bit.
Are spark plugs normally this awkward to replace?
I've ordered some copper anti seaze, as I've heard it helps stop the plug siezing and getting stuck.

I'm not confident in my replacement work, so looking for advice. As will try and do the second plug tomorrow maybe.




I also noticed the rubber cover on the air box is damaged and erroded. Can anyone let me know what that part is so i can replace.


And finally i noticed a rubber cover for some electrical wires is also damaged, and again I'd like to replace it, if anyone can let me know which part that is so i can buy a new one, that would be sweet.


Thanks

 

[bugsymike]

Hi there

I'm attempting to replace a couple of spark plugs. But am finding it trickier than i thought it would be.

Main issue I'm finding is when I'm tightening the new spark plug, either the spark plug or the socket i'm using feels like it's getting stuck in the hole the plug goes into.
So I'll tighten the plug by hand as much as i could and then tighten a bit further with the socket. But then the socket will be stuck in the hole. I'll have to untighten it to get the socket out.
Below is the a pic of the plug i was working on. I got it in somewhat tight, at least i couldn't feel any play in the plug. Engine started okay and seemed to run okay. for the 30 seconds i had it on. Sounded okay as well.

I also noted when i untightened the old plug it would get loose and then get tight again. so not like a regular screw where it's smooth or the tightness gets progressively tighter, it would tighten up and loosen a bit.
Are spark plugs normally this awkward to replace?
I've ordered some copper anti seaze, as I've heard it helps stop the plug siezing and getting stuck.

I'm not confident in my replacement work, so looking for advice. As will try and do the second plug tomorrow maybe.




I also noticed the rubber cover on the air box is damaged and erroded. Can anyone let me know what that part is so i can replace.


And finally i noticed a rubber cover for some electrical wires is also damaged, and again I'd like to replace it, if anyone can let me know which part that is so i can buy a new one, that would be sweet.


Thanks

Regarding the spark plugs, assuming you haven't cross threaded it, I suspect your spark plug spanner is the problem , a good quality one is thin but strong, whereas a cheap one uses thicker metal which means that in a narrow hole it jams on the outside. To prove the point put paint or crayon on the outside and try and screw the plug in, if it scratches away then you know that is the cause.
By the way do not leave spark plugs loose as you will cause more problems and damage the threads in the cylinder head.
I always screw plugs in as far as possible by hand and then finish off with the spark plug socket and tighten correctly, not over tight.
If you are unsure maybe see if you have a more experienced friend to guide you, as it may save on an expensive repair.

 

[Gandalf500]

Regarding the spark plugs, assuming you haven't cross threaded it, I suspect your spark plug spanner is the problem , a good quality one is thin but strong, whereas a cheap one uses thicker metal which means that in a narrow hole it jams on the outside. To prove the point put paint or crayon on the outside and try and screw the plug in, if it scratches away then you know that is the cause.
By the way do not leave spark plugs loose as you will cause more problems and damage the threads in the cylinder head.
I always screw plugs in as far as possible by hand and then finish off with the spark plug socket and tighten correctly, not over tight.
If you are unsure maybe see if you have a more experienced friend to guide you, as it may save on an expensive repair.

Hi Bugsymikem i did notice on the socket i used, there was chaffing and i guess rust on the outside of it after a bit of trying. did feel like the socket is too fat to fit nicely.
thanks

 

[The Panda Nut]

A small amount of thin oil on the thread may help. Ill probably be shot down for this. Its easy to cross thread the plugs - I managed this recently - so do start them without a spanner and make sure they are going in nicely before applying any force with a tool as the others have said.

 

[John202020]

Thin wall plug socket, bit oil on threads, extension bar no handle tighten by hand then had handle and tighten correctly, should you wish Iridium plugs can be fitted meaning a 5 year replacement. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/33475964...29Pw3B4M8/eD4Ui8ieRYlgRQ==|tkp:Bk9SR-KU0OnwYQ
Your cable issue, see if you can get any slack to help as the issue looks like too tight, perhaps use so amalgamating tape to repair in either case? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/275535951260?hash=item402738f59c:g:jCIAAOSwPMpeLsLi&amdata=enc:AQAIAAAA8AfICmaQ/bxdV28LMgQyA8G68y8m1azxsH5dTV68uU6UmsOCVlmXk8ifRieFXsAg5zc9PgeZdwPHDQ0+tjpfCRtrmXMsiuwoZ6WMnFzD3/i0crLcjX6PeNz0MFDDRK1QTcs46QRJ659k2Oto3z2nLuPVuSmMwC3AvrkBzcEMsW9pu8jgnnOP6dHR4LpuIMtemnwfIUQboUHdmijph4MeLOFtUnCaFejMTvHsx9nAPnEDKOxuBQoQwr9gsMCpubUURRw0Zl8lzp+/P9MCdGe365UNou46xlRbopMGqnJcWlOFydPvjHzEKe+8JxFJK1Pavw==|tkp:BFBM-p6I6fBh
Air box to throttle body seal should be obtainable https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/155498524597?hash=item24346f2fb5:g:broAAOSwsiNj9IIj&amdata=enc:AQAIAAAA4Deg7ac0nUe2+I4L78UZatVpcFBh+/lH5NgvbadzSuIk7+MdUOzycLOmuuGW4Ywtd5pLNY4RkHFLdb17K3PTJcqhFkZiAuAo0aWfbbMXQ6DE5Oxm2ZhR2aqTbyoajcvG2NKii827OoEGM8XN0kxAMjGY1vhoz1spoWbWBOCt7dZHt8oZdCgMpMorvpn95bf0DRg3qnCIowkNe8UZV0QxSqj89UVu0xG5AgLPhufVLCLREVklPZ8UaQZSvHFOk3J7r8ClVrqhB9fRgPq9EDjPDkw4kKOR3lkzY5j/PArh0+5p|tkp:BFBM1r366PBh

 

[Gandalf500]

Many thanks for the advise. I did use a very small amount of WD-40 3 in one oil, then wiped it around the thread with a kitchen towel. Didn't massively help, but good to know the threads can be lubed a bit.

thanks

 

[Gandalf500]

Thin wall plug socket, bit oil on threads, extension bar no handle tighten by hand then had handle and tighten correctly, should you wish Iridium plugs can be fitted meaning a 5 year replacement.
Your cable issue, see if you can get any slack to help as the issue looks like too tight, perhaps use so amalgamating tape to repair in either case? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/275535951260?hash=item402738f59c:g:jCIAAOSwPMpeLsLi&amdata=enc:AQAIAAAA8AfICmaQ/bxdV28LMgQyA8G68y8m1azxsH5dTV68uU6UmsOCVlmXk8ifRieFXsAg5zc9PgeZdwPHDQ0+tjpfCRtrmXMsiuwoZ6WMnFzD3/i0crLcjX6PeNz0MFDDRK1QTcs46QRJ659k2Oto3z2nLuPVuSmMwC3AvrkBzcEMsW9pu8jgnnOP6dHR4LpuIMtemnwfIUQboUHdmijph4MeLOFtUnCaFejMTvHsx9nAPnEDKOxuBQoQwr9gsMCpubUURRw0Zl8lzp+/P9MCdGe365UNou46xlRbopMGqnJcWlOFydPvjHzEKe+8JxFJK1Pavw==|tkp:BFBM-p6I6fBh
Air box to throttle body seal should be obtainable https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/155498524597?hash=item24346f2fb5:g:broAAOSwsiNj9IIj&amdata=enc:AQAIAAAA4Deg7ac0nUe2+I4L78UZatVpcFBh+/lH5NgvbadzSuIk7+MdUOzycLOmuuGW4Ywtd5pLNY4RkHFLdb17K3PTJcqhFkZiAuAo0aWfbbMXQ6DE5Oxm2ZhR2aqTbyoajcvG2NKii827OoEGM8XN0kxAMjGY1vhoz1spoWbWBOCt7dZHt8oZdCgMpMorvpn95bf0DRg3qnCIowkNe8UZV0QxSqj89UVu0xG5AgLPhufVLCLREVklPZ8UaQZSvHFOk3J7r8ClVrqhB9fRgPq9EDjPDkw4kKOR3lkzY5j/PArh0+5p|tkp:BFBM1r366PBh

Many thanks, I've ordered this from Amazon. Hope it's the right thin type.
Amazon product ASIN B07F7KK872Many thanks for the link to the part, and the amalgamating tape idea. I've seen that used in a yt vid so will give that a go.

Thanks

 

[John202020]

Many thanks, I've ordered this from Amazon. Hope it's the right thin type.
Amazon product ASIN B07F7KK872Many thanks for the link to the part, and the amalgamating tape idea. I've seen that used in a yt vid so will give that a go.

Thanks

They should work, hand tighten to start with until fully "seated" then nip up.

 

[varesecrazy]

Oiling threads is not a problem in itself...

Its only problematic if you then try and use a Torquewrench ( less resistance can lead to overtorqued parts)

 

[The Panda Nut]

I believe its around 18lb/ft which is not much motr than using your fingers on a 4" lever Definitely dont go doing them too tight it causes many problems 1/4 turn after you have resistance is ample.

 

[TrevC]

Did ours recently. I found it easier if to unbolt the coil pack and move aside. I put thin oil on the thread, and pushed a short length of heater hose on the plug to help start and hand tighten it. Then used my plug spanner which has a universal joint and T bar. Wound them down until they seated, then gave a quarter turn, which is about the limit I can do by hand on the small T bar, obviously it's designed like that.

 

[jrkitching]

Take care not to cross thread the plugs when replacing them. I'd advise you to only tighten gently by hand until you're sure the plug has seated properly.

which has a universal joint

It can be done with just a straight extension bar if you use a top quality thin walled socket, but having a universal joint close to the plug socket makes it much easier. It's not much, but a slight deviation from the vertical improves clearance significantly, particularly if your tools are on the bulky side. Many people overtighten plugs; it's surprising how little effort is needed when removing them from a factory-fresh car for the first time.

Oiling threads is not a problem in itself...

Its only problematic if you then try and use a Torquewrench ( less resistance can lead to overtorqued parts)

That.

My rule of thumb is to use no more than 75% of the dry torque setting with lubricated fasteners. I use 60ftlb for greased wheel bolts and have never had one loosen in service.

Spark plugs require specialised low torque setting tools to achieve an acceptable level of accuracy if lubricated, and are perhaps better angle tightened for those lacking the 'feel' that comes with experience. It goes without saying that you can only use angle tightening if the plug washer is new.

The other caveat is that lubricated threads must be properly cleaned and relubricated whenever they are replaced. Any contamination on greased threads can lead to undertightening.

One advantage of lubricating threads is that you generally get a more consistent clamping force for any given torque.

And finally, with any torque setting tool it's important to carry out the final tightening in one continuous smooth movement. If you stop turning before the requisite torque is reached, then on restarting, you might get a false indication that the required torque has been reached. This is because the breakaway torque is higher than the turning torque.

 

[Gandalf500]

Many thanks to you all. Your advise has been great.

I got a set of spark plug sockets, much thinner then my cheaps ones and surprisingly heavier.
And omg it just slipped in! So surprised by how much easier it was
No resistence or chaffing. I used an extention attached to the SP socket, and could really easily feel the smoothness of the threads.
Hand tighten till i couldn't tighten anymore then tighten 1/4 turn.

I did use a uni joint just to make it slightly easier. Good call on that one

I still have cylinder 2 to do, so will look into maybe removing the coil pack as TrevC recommended, be a nice chance to have a look at that part. Seen it done in some tutorials and yes defineately looks like it'll make doing the other SP much easier.

I've got the air box seal coming and some copper anti seaze.
Amazon product ASIN B08VW6TQMXI think i might check the plug I put in when i do the 2nd one, see how it's doing, and apply a small amount of the copper grease. I'll stick with the 1/4 turn at the mo. I do have a torque wrench but it starts at 28nm / 2.9kgs.

Before I forget, I do have a question regarding using dielectric grease. I think it's the 3rd cylinder spark plug, i tried to pull out the rubber boot cover cap but it's stuck in there. I've got a hose grip plier now so will try that. Would applying some Dielectric grease help in the future to stop the cover caps from getting stuck.
Saw this on a ChrisFix vid

Again many thanks for all the advise.

 

[varesecrazy]

HT leads can be awkward

As both the Rubber boot and Electrical connection can stick

Well worth getting a Spare HT lead..or 4.. before heaving on it.. it could well fail


Grease.. Not something I have tried


But TBH ... my cars for the last 6 years have not had HT leads..

modern kit is on Coil Caps : Stick coils

 

[chris3234]

I wouldn't recommend putting copper grease on plugs.
If changed on time you should need have an issue with spark plugs seizing
Most plugs have a coating on the threads to protect them from the factory anyway

 

[bugsymike]

HT leads can be awkward

As both the Rubber boot and Electrical connection can stick

Well worth getting a Spare HT lead..or 4.. before heaving on it.. it could well fail


Grease.. Not something I have tried


But TBH ... my cars for the last 6 years have not had HT leads..

modern kit is on Coil Caps : Stick coils

I have always found a good spray with silicon spray like WD40 lubricates the rubber inside the caps, any leads etc. but also chases the damp away for the future.