Technical Rear caliper change

[phil7265]

Multi wagon.

Hey I'm just changing the rear driver side caliper as I believe it's seized. I'm trying to disconnect the brake hose which attaches onto the caliper but it's so tight I've nearly rounded the nut off! (squeaky bum time). I've Absolutely soaked it in penetrate fluid and WD but still won't budge!

Anyone else have this problem or can give me any advice or tips on how best to remove it?

Thanks!

 

[bri1232]

'if its rounded off use mole grips anti clock wise to remove.

 

[phil7265]

'if its rounded off use mole grips anti clock wise to remove.

Worked a treat!! Cheers! Sometimes just requires an outsiders view lol

 

[phil7265]

Any ideas how I can take it apart to see if it can be repaired rather then fork out for a new one?

 

[Maigretnz]

It is not usually the internals that seize but the pins that allow it to self centre on the rotor. Use a high temperature anti seize on these.

As you have pulled the caliper off you may as well inspect.
I have not had my Stilo ones off but I do have photos of when I overhauled some FIAT Tipo ones that I fitted to my Lotus Esprit.

The handbrake mechanism stops it just pulling out. It is on a coarse screw that the handbrake uses to push on the piston. Replace the seal ring and boot. Check the piston for pits and replace that if necessary.

 

[phil7265]

Brilliant I'll give it a go!

 

[mhowse]

Just for info , refurbished rear caliper fitted with new piston and seals are approx £38 at present time and piston with seals kit approx £18, obviously the choice is yours, I opted for refurb caliper with no problems, if you choose to go the change piston and seal route be good to know how you get on.

 

[Ralf S.]

I would fit a new brake pipe (so that you have a new nut) while you have the beast apart. The rounded off nut will only get harder to remove, in future.

Ralf S.

 

[phil7265]

Hey guys thanks for all the advice. Didn't manage to get it apart in the end bought a new one for 70 smackers! Feel a bit swindled now but oh well. I managed to turn the caliper onto the brake hose instead of other way round to avoid twisting it which worked like a dream! Bled the brakes today and took it for a drive and all seems to be good. Next job is front wheel bearing!! Where does it all end ??

 

[Peat]

With cars it never does!

 

[jonti]

Thought I'd pick on an existing thread but it's a bit different. My back brakes have been binding for a long time. The only way I can get the pads to slide is to remove the rattle clips. With the rattle clips in there is simply not enough room. It's bizarre. It's not as if the caliper carrier is corroded particularly either. I ground the edges off the old pads which worked for a bit then tried new pads. Both were Pagid. Has anyone had similar ? Cheers

 

[jim cooper]

I also had this problem and found that the caliper carrier needed a good scrape underneath the spring clips. It may not look particularly corroded but you should get down to bare metal with a file or old screwdriver. Then put a bit of silicone or brake grease on the cleaned up bits of the carrier and refit the spring clips.

 

[Ralf S.]

If the brakes are binding and it's nothing daft, like an over-tightened handbrake, then it could be that the caliper pins are seized or sticking or the caliper piston is corroded or sticking.

You can remove the caliper pins for inspection. Frankly these are not worth not replacing if yours look tired. eBay will sort you out a new set for a tenner.

Clean out the hole with a piece of coat hanger and a screwed up bit of rag.. and loads of WD40 (it dissolves old oil and grease, rather than you're trying to lubricate anything).

When it's clean .. slide the pins in and out to feel in they stick. You can sand the ends a little to give them a bit more clearance. Then use some white grease on the new pins (new pins come with the right grease). Not Copper grease.

The caliper piston would need a caliper refurb.. which requires new seals and removal from the car. You'd have to remove the piston and change the seals, check the handbrake mechanism and then clean/re-fit the piston.

Personally. I'd buy new calipers (anything from £40-60 each). This is a more expensive option to a rebuild... but that assumes you won't find something knackered in there and can rebuild for "a tenner a side".

A replacement means you will be fitting either new or re-manufactured parts (new moving parts, cleaned up/as new non-moving parts like this pair of calipers - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PAIR-OF-R...946712?hash=item56710e3fd8:g:iBMAAOSwuAVWxRlS ) and that'll be the end of rear caliper problems forever..

 

[jonti]

Thanks Jim, Ralf. I'll get some new clips and see if I can make enough room for the pads to slide, not that the pads rattle like the old Tipo did